Elizabeth's Blog

Today is a full-bodied, sunny August Sunday in the Médoc. As I wrote last week, I am spending time in southwest France this summer for work—with a bit of vacation thrown in. The time so far has been rich, and there are some good stories to tell about French culture, sights, history, geography, food, wine, and more. But in the spirit of getting the flavor of the place, here is a short résumé (summary) of highlights from the past couple of weeks:

Wine – Tasting Tour of Wineries in the Médoc

Wheels – Tour de France Bike Race in Pauillac

Water – French Beaches on the Atlantic Coast

WINE:  Basically, the Médoc—the area north of Bordeaux bordered by the Atlantic ocean on the west and the Gironde estuary on the east—is about wine and water. Some of France’s most spectacular coastline is here. And some of the world’s greatest vintages are produced here. You can drive down the “Route des châteaux” (chateau road) and see breathtaking castles surrounded by grapevines basking in the sun everywhere you look.

A few days ago, my husband and I were treated to an ‘insider’s tour’ of several Médoc wineries. Our guide was Pamela Prior, a glorious British woman who has spent her career in the wine business in this region. We started at the northern end of the Médoc and worked our way down for a grand finale tour and wine tasting at Château Margaux, a legend in French wine circles. As is the case at top tier chateaux, visiting the chais, or wine-making buildings and cellars, is by appointment only.

And the neoclassical chateau is only able to be admired from the outside…

Our two-hour tour ended with a tasting of the winery’s first wine—a Château Margaux 2006. It retails for about 350 euros a bottle–definitely not in my wine price range. While it was an extraordinary wine, it did need some more aging to mellow out. More accessible in terms of taste and price was the chateau’s second wine called “Pavillon rouge” also from 2006. What a great wine! It sells for about 25 euros a bottle but maheureusement (unfortunately) none of the chateau’s wines were for sale sur place (on site) as they are snapped up way in advance of production!

WHEELS:  A few days after arriving in the Médoc, we discovered that the Tour de France bike race was scheduled to come through the area on July 23^rd, the day before the triumphant finale on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. Riders would complete Etape 19 (Stage 19) of the Tour with the ‘contre-la-montre individuel’, or individual time trials, from Bordeaux to Pauillac, a small town that sits on the Gironde estuary. As fans of the Tour know, the time trials are a race against the clock for each individual coureur (rider). The trials began in Bordeaux at 10:25am with pairs of the slowest riders making the 50 or so kilometer trek to Pauillac and were staged all day long every few minutes ending with top riders Contador and Schleck who pulled into Pauillac about 5pm.

Brilliantly enough, our dear friend Pamela has a lovely flat on the main street of Pauillac with windows that overlooked the finish line. Here is a front-row-seat shot of the Arrivée with the action in full swing:

And here are spectators lining the route just prior to the finish line:

There was no shortage of souvenirs as this smiling vendeuse was happy to help Tour attendees with their purchases…

WATER:   If wine isn’t enough of an attraction, the Médoc has miles and miles of beautiful pristine beaches. From Soulac-sur-Mer in the north down to Cap Ferret (not to be confused with the Mediterranean’s Cap Ferrat!) and Arcachon in the south, the coast is perfect for sunbathing, surfing, walking, and swimming. However, as we experienced firsthand, the cross-currents and tides are very strong so swimming is recommended only in the lifeguarded areas…

The beaches have one of my favorite things about this time in France—there is so much coast that overcrowding is nearly a non-issue even at the height of tourist season (think Nice or Cannes in August). So if you’re looking for a new sunny spot to try in France, the Médoc may be just the place! 

Next week, I’ll have some more snapshots from southwest France and more French culture to savor. And if you’re on holiday in August like most of the French are at the moment, I wish you bonnes vacances! 

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Following last week’s “art walk” of French pastry shops, I thought it would be fascinant (intriguing) to go behind the pâtisserie scenes and see how some of this edible art is created. Our virtual visit takes us to Jouvaud, a divine pastry and chocolate shop in the heart of Carpentras in Provence.

The French Affaires Fall 2009 Trip visited Carpentras this past October as part of our “Best of Provence” adventure to France. Now I normally would not put Carpentras on my list of “must-do’s” while in Provence—no slight intended to those who live there. There are just other Provence towns and sights that are a higher priority in my book. But of course, food and related activities can make some destinations in France very palatable.

Friday is market day in Carpentras, drawing together social groups who don’t usually mix:  the local bourgeoisie, immigrants from North Africa, country people who live in the region, vacationers from Paris who have second houses nearby, and tourists. We were in Carpentras as guests of Serge Ghoukassian, the celebrated wine expert, passionate gourmand (foodie) and creative mind behind Chez Serge, his wonderful restaurant in the center of the old town. He makes a mission out of sharing les bonnes choses (good things) and les bonnes adresses (good contacts) so had put together a special food and wine day for us. Were we in for a treat!

Our first stop was Jouvaud which is owned and run by Serge’s close friends, Frédéric and Nicole Jouvaud. Frédéric’s parents began the successful venture in 1948, and today, three generations of their family are involved. Click here for the story of the family’s pastry odyssey in their charming online ‘scrapbook.’  They also own another pâtisserie in Avignon. 

As the town mobilized for the Friday outdoor market, we enjoyed coffee and viennoiseries (breakfast pastries) on the terrace in front of the shop. My pain aux raisins (raisin croissant) was hyper bon (wildly good).

You can see a small round chocolate peeking out from behind the pain aux raisins. They gave us some of their signature chocolates with “J” on them to sample with breakfast. The French are wonderfully generous, especially when it comes to good things to taste and to drink. And who could resist chocolate even at that hour of the day?

But this wasn’t the main show. After our petit déjeuner (breakfast), Serge took us up the back stairs of the shop to the kitchens where the daily pastry magic happens at Jouvaud. We met Frédéric who maintains a hands-on approach to running his sweets operation. Here he is in a tablier (apron) ensuring that each chocolate is perfect before placing them in the shop’s vitrine (display case) below.

In every corner of Jouvaud’s kitchens that morning, something wonderful was happening. I was particularly interested in the watching the cake chef create the chocolate shavings that garnished these for-the-moment-nondescript gâteaux (cakes).

First the chocolate is gently melted in the bain marie.

Next, the chef spreads a thin layer of chocolate on a prepared board. It is just the right consistency and temperature for him to lift it off and then expertly form it into chocolate waves.

They are then laid perfectly on the cakes. He makes it look si facile (so easy). I wonder how many times he attempted this in pastry school before it came out right?

I wish we had the time and space to share the whole tour here. But suffice it to say, all of Jouvaud’s sweet treat are worth a detour, and the entire staff is warm and welcoming. We ended up making Jouvaud our home base that entire morning in Carpentras. In case you make it to Carpentras soon, here are some quick snapshots of some of Jouvaud’s other spécialités de la maison (house specialties) which are indémodables (never out of style) and à ne pas manquer (not to be missed):

Les Fruits confits (candied fruits)–a must to try when in Provence

Candied clementines still in their syrup

Les Rocailles, meringues with bits of hazelnut and a gooey center, so named for their resemblance to the stones at the top of nearby Mont Ventoux. They come in vanilla, coffee & chocolate flavors.

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Art is top of mind this week. In our advanced French Conversation class, we read a recent article from Le Point magazine on French attitudes toward art and museums. In a February 2010 survey of 1000 French persons 18 years old and older, six Français sur dix ont déclaré visiter un musée au moins une fois par an (six out of ten reported that they visit a museum at least once per year). In addition, the survey noted that museums are where most French go to take in art. Interestingly, les expositions temporaires, les galleries et les foires (temporary exhibitions, art galleries and art fairs) garner less attention.

But some of our group wondered why the French did not go to museums more often with so many temples of great art at their disposal. Class participant Kathy declared in lovely French, “Si j’habitais en France, je visiterais un musée au moins une fois par semaine!” (If I lived in France, I would visit a museum at least once a week!)

This got me thinking about other types of “art” that the French frequent more often in their everyday lives. Take the neighborhood pâtisserie (pastry shop) for instance. The daily expositions (exhibitions) of pastry art in France are breathtaking.  The various arrays of les gâteaux et les tartes (cakes and tarts) are des chefs-d’oeuvre (masterpieces) of color, creativity AND flavor. I would be willing to faire un pari (make a bet) that the average French family enjoys an edible oeuvre d’art (work of art) at least once a week, whether at Sunday lunch with the family or while entertaining à la maison.

To see firsthand the fruits of these creative pastry labors, let’s take an “art walk” through various pâtisseries in Paris and Provence: 

Gosselin in Paris…EACH fresh raspberry has a perfect dot of raspberry glaze.

In Paris, Pierre Hermé’s Ispahan confection blends raspberry, litchi & rose.

 Béchard in Aix-en-Provence is a veritable field of raspberries.

 A cream puff of a cake also at Béchard in Aix.

Béchard even whips up ice cream cakes…Adieu Baskin-Robbins, bonjour Béchard!

In addition to all the regular art, I am fascinated by the mini versions of luscious pastries. What a labor of love to create each one of these little jewels. And their small size means you can taste a variety of flavors all the calories of the regular size. I wish more French pastry shops in the U.S. would include the mini pastries in their repertoire. Ah well, I’ll have to keep going to France for that one.

It is tempting to want to collectionner (collect) these edible art objects and keep them on the shelf, they are so beautiful. But of course, photos will have to do instead—and memories of wonderful tastes.

Next week, we’ll take a behind the scenes tour of a French pastry shop and see the art of pastry-making in action. Until then, add a comment at let us know your favorite type of French edible art!

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

My experience of Art in France is that the French highly value their culture, history and art. Museums—large grand ones like the Louvre or small regional ones, historic monuments, and châteaux are packed on weekends and often during the week. There is even a “French Heritage Days” weekend (Les Journées du Patrimoine) every September where fabulous buildings and properties—both government-owned and private—are open to the public for two days. The lines outside participating establishments are very long but the French consider it worth the wait.

If you are planning to be in France in September, you won’t want to miss this incredible weekend of French Art. While the Journées du Patrimoine web site is not up yet for 2010, you can bookmark it for future reference:  www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr/.

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…the concept of a “Restaurant week” has JUST made an appearance. This year for the first time chefs of more than 800 restaurants in France, including 200 restaurants in the Paris region alone, have joined forces to host “Tous au Restaurant” and share their passion for great cuisine.

From June 7 to 13, diners all over l’Hexagone are enjoying a gourmet lunch for 20,10 euros (you have to wonder where they got the ,10 euros?!) or 35 euros for dinner. Included are three courses: the ENTREE + PLAT + DESSERT (starter + main dish + dessert). From bistrots to regional restaurants to grand temples of cuisine, all types of eating establishments are participating in this effort to showcase French cuisine at its finest.

Inspired by the success of “Restaurant Week” in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London, and other countries, Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse organized this year’s restaurant fête through his company Alain Ducasse Entreprise. Most, if not all, of his restaurants are included in the operation including Benoit, Spoon, Aux Lyonnais, Le Relais du Parc, Le Relais Plaza, and La Bastide de Moustiers. Additional crème de la crème chefs include Guy Savoy, Hélène Darroze, Anne-Sophie Pic, Joël Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire, Paul Bocuse, and others.

I find myself wondering why “Restaurant Week” has not appeared in France until now. Perhaps the reason is that every week is in effect ‘restaurant week’ in this country where food and wine are almost a religion. But making such an idea official and offering attractive prices is certainly a creative idea, especially during these slow economic times. And if anyone has the ability to pull his confrères together to make such an event happen, Monsieur Ducasse certainly does.

This week, I have perused the “Tous au Restaurant” web site several times to choose the restaurants where I would dine if I were in France right now and found some interesting possibilities. I am curious what our wonderful French Affaires readers would choose and why. To that end, let’s encourage everyone to check out the “Tous au Restaurant” web site and make their selections:

www.tousaurestaurant.com

Then let us know which restaurant(s) you would most like to visit and why in the comment section for this article. There will be a prize for the most creative entry submitted by Thursday, June 17th—a set of signed French Affaires notecards with original photos of Paris…perfect for speical correspondence or for framing!

And if there is anyone in the FA community who is in France right now and dining at some of the French restaurant week establishments, be sure and let us all know.

On another note…

Thank you, dear FA readers, for your participation and for your support of a little bit of France in the U.S. We’ll be back to our regular weekly posting schedule next week. Stay tuned for more interesting cultural, language and travel entries about one of the most beautiful places on earth—France!

Our new signed French Affaires notecards with original photos of France will soon be available on the French Affaires web site. The photo series will include the:

Best of Paris, Sacred Paris, Musée d’Orsay Paris, Paris Fleurs, French Markets, Best of Provence, Sacred Provence, Provence Markets…and more.

We’ll also post wonderful French antique and objet d’art finds from our French travels and séjours (stays) as they come available. Check www.frenchaffaires.com soon as we share more of the best of France.

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On Monday, French Affaires hosted celebrated food journalist and cookbook author Susan Herrmann Loomis as part of our French Affaires Book Series. She is currently based in France (more specifically in Louviers, Normandy) and runs her cooking school “On Rue Tatin” from there. Over a French-inspired lunch, she regaled our group of nearly 50 Francophiles with wonderful tales about cooking and living in France… “Every day I have at least one conversation with someone about FOOD.” In addition, she describes “France as a gracious place to live” but “the red tape is infernal” and “America has peanut butter. ”

Speaking of nuts, she made our mouths water when describing her ‘favorite three recipes’ from “Nuts in the Kitchen,” her new cookbook just out in April. She traveled from Turkey to Thailand to Sweden researching this latest labor of cooking love. Interestingly, she noted that the Swedes have made an art out of using nuts in cooking and that many good nutty culinary ideas come from that locale.

French Affaires’ next rendez-vous with chef Susan is our Paris market tour and cooking day in early November as part of the FA fall trip. Our French Affaires ‘Gourmet Paris’ travelers are in for a super-French culinary treat with her tremendous expertise and warm personality thrown in. Check out these photos of our previous ‘Gourmet Paris’ trip and cooking class with Susan:

And we look forward to hosting her in Texas next year for a multi-day cooking class where we all can roll up our sleeves and COOK.

Merci to all those who came out to enjoy a “breath of French air”…we appreciate your being part of our French Affaires community in the U.S.

And merci to you, Susan, for providing a “breath of French air”…and Happy Book Tour!

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There are some things a textbook just doesn’t tell you about the French language. In my years as a former French professor and now as a French language and travel specialist, I find that you have to go to the source—France!—to get the real scoop.

Take the word bonjour, for example. When you learn to say bonjour (hello or good day) in French, most books explain what it means and show how it’s used in a simple conversation. That’s a good start. But they don’t mention that when you are in France, you should make your time there what I like to call a ‘bonjour fest.’

What exactly is a ‘bonjour fest’, you might ask?

When you enter a shop or boutique, when it’s your turn at the boulangerie (bakery) or chocolaterie (chocolate shop), when you approach the reception desk at your hotel, when you come into a restaurant, when you get into a taxi, when you reach the ticket counter at a museum, make eye contact with the French and say a nice, clear “Bonjour!” Better still, be sure to add on a crisp “Monsieur” (sir) or “Madame” (ma’am) to your French hello. This practice will go a long way towards positive human relations and a great French travel experience. 

Here’s why bonjour is so important: French culture is relationship oriented (as opposed to the more transactional American culture) so it is essential to acknowledge and respect individuals you meet. Of course, you don’t need to greet people you pass on the street—only those with whom you come into direct contact. And you can leave off the word “Salut!” (hi) as it’s too informal for anyone other than close friends or family.

Another aspect of bonjour which I have never seen in a French language textbook popped up a few years ago in Paris. I went to my neighborhood librairie (bookstore) to buy some books on my French reading list. I greeted the vendeur (salesman) with a nice “Bonjour, Monsieur” as I entered the shop, made and purchased my selections, and said “Au revoir, Monsieur” as I went out the door.

Later that day, however, I realized I had forgotten to buy a highly recommended livre (volume) so headed back to the book shop. As I entered, the salesman recognized me from earlier that day and called out “Rebonjour, Madame!” “Hello again, Madame!” It was a memorable moment. I was charmed to realize that even in a big metropolis like Paris, people remember you and acknowledge it. Ever since, when I run across someone more than once in the same day in Paris or elsewhere in France, I call out “Rebonjour!” and it never fails to put a smile on the receiver’s face. In fact, rebonjour remains my current favorite French word.

To sum up, whether it’s bonjour or rebonjour, say hello liberally when in France—c’est simple comme bonjour (it’s easy as pie)!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

The Parisian pâtisserie (pastry shop) Gérard Mulot makes rebonjour a must as it’s tempting to go there over and over again. Their macarons are some of my favorites including the bite-sized orange-gingembre (orange ginger) with bits of candied ginger or the lusciously fluffy noix de coco (coconut) version.

Gérard Mulot is near the Luxembourg Gardens so you can go there to walk off the calories for a guilt-free indulgence. Or you can get a small box to bring back with you on the plane–miam, miam (yum, yum).

Gérard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
www.gerardmulot.com

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In keeping with last week’s posting about dessert, it seemed fitting to continue with a variation on the sweet theme…though this time with a decidedly artistic tangent!

Recently, I was dining with friends at one of Paris’ oldest bistrots, La Fontaine de Mars, in the Rue St. Dominique and ended a classically French meal—steak frites—with an equally classic dessert…île flottante, or floating island. If you have never had it, île flottante is a fluffy mound of toasted meringue in a pool of crème anglaise (custard sauce). I like it after a heavier French dinner as it is wonderfully flavorful yet light.

When the evening’s dessert arrived, I was struck by its distinctive shape—it reminded me at once of French haystacks…the ones from Normandy that Monet painted time after time in various lights of day.

I thought about how Monet lovingly depicted the cone top with straight sides in the morning, afternoon and early evening. Having seen an exhibition years ago in France on Monet’s “series paintings” (haystacks, Rouen cathedral, poplars, water lilies), I was transported to peaceful fields adorned with that soft and tender light that bespeaks northern France… 

In preparing for a recent lecture on Normandy for the Dallas Museum of Art, I came across a photo of a French haystack under construction. The photo is part of the publicity for a fascinating collaboration this summer celebrating Impressionism. It’s called Normandie Impressionionniste 2010 and will take place all over Normandy, the home of this artistic movement. More than 160 towns, villages and organizations will host events and exhibitions including painting, contemporary art, music, cinema, theatre, dance, photography, video, literature, lectures, light and sound, and more. If you already have Normandy  in your summer travel plans, you are in for a rich treat…If not, it’s a reason to rush out and buy a ticket to France.

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Years ago, I did the Normandy ‘grand tour.’ My mother and I had rented a car and we took in the major sights in this rich corner of northern France: le Mont St. Michel, la Tâpisserie de Bayeux (the Bayeux Tapestry), les plages de débarquement (World War II landing beaches), the beachside towns of Deauville and Trouville, the gothic spires and half-timbered houses of old Rouen, Monet’s artistic haven at Giverny, and the miles of verdant countryside in between.

It was all spectacular but my most magical memory was the short afternoon we spent near the Abbaye du Bec-Hellouin, an ancient Benedictine monastery in a small Norman valley near the Bec river. As the gates were open, we drove into the monastery grounds to visit the beautiful 17th and 18th century buildings. What we did not know was that this enchanting place where time seemed to have stopped was closed to visitors.

A very proper monk came out to greet us and kindly sent us on our way. We regretfully left the premises and headed toward the adjacent village. We ended up at a true French auberge (inn) where we consoled ourselves with nice lunch of regional cuisine. To finish up, I tasted for the first time the Normandy chef d’oeuvre (masterpiece), la tarte tatin (the upside down, caramelized apple tart).

Just recently, I attended cooking school in Normandy where cookbook author and chef Susan Herrmann Loomis taught us how to make this quintessential Norman dessert. Susan runs “On Rue Tatin”, the appropriately named cooking school in Louviers about 30 minutes from Rouen.

We first went shopping for our apple tart ingredients at the local Saturday market. Il était une fois (once upon a time), Normandy was home to more than 2000 varieties of apples. Today, there are about 400. You can see many of these varieties on any given market day. Their beautiful shapes and colors made me wish that Monet had done some “series paintings” of Normandy pommes…

Our choice for the tarte tatin was the Cox Orange Pippin variety. You need apples that are somewhat tart and hold their shape–a French tarte tatin is definitely not an ‘applesauce tart.’

The first step in the recipe is to place the granulated sugar in the bottom of  the pan. Susan used a wonderful copper moule à tarte tatin (a pan made especially for cooking a tarte tatin). Then large slices of butter are laid over the sugar. The time-consuming part is peeling and coring all the apples…But you can leave them in halves–no slicing needed.

Then you arrange the apples artfully around the pan like so…

Next, the pan is placed on the stove (gas flame preferred) and the butter melts, the sugar caramelizes and then the apples begin to caramelize as well…

Once the apples are done (it takes about an hour), the prepared pastry is placed on top of the apples and the tart goes into the oven until the pastry is golden. Finally, the moment of truth…Susan flipped the piping-hot tart onto a serving plate and voilà! You can even see the steam rising…

After a nice lunch that we also prepared in this hands-on cooking class, we enjoyed a slice of the warm tart with a spoonful of crème fraîche. You could say that this dish is ‘Normandy on a plate.’

In the spirit of putting ‘theory into practice,’ I made a tarte tatin at home last weekend. It turned out perfectly and tasted of France at every bite. I can’t wait to make it again…even if it means peeling all those apples!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

French Affaires Fall 2010 Trip: “Gourmet Paris” – We’ll have the chance to cook with Susan Herrmann Loomis again on our culinary trip to the French capital. Susan will take us on a special market tour where we’ll buy seasonal ingredients for our multi-course lunch. Then she’ll lead us through a hands-on cooking class of quintessential French dishes that are perfect to make at home. Finally we’ll sit down and enjoy our culinary creations paired with wine. Trip dates: November 2 to 8, 2010. Trip details coming soon on the French Affaires web site!

“The Lens of Impressionism” exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art – This spring , the Dallas Museum of Art ‘goes to Normandy’ in this fascinating exhibit on the interplay of photography and impressionist painting along the Normandy coast from 1850 to 1874. Light, sky, clouds, sea, water, mood, and atmosphere were major themes for the French artists in this time and place. The show is accompanied by a Saturday lecture series, Late Night events and even culinary experiences in partnership with Rise No 1 restaurant. For the culinary sessions, the DMA is offering the member discount to French Affaires patrons–just be sure to mention “French Affaires” when registering. More information on the exhibition and other events can be found here.

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I woke up this morning thinking about Provence…the bright sun, rich colors, intense flavors. As I am not sur place (there in person)—and also as an antidote to winter– I decided to give myself a taste of this special region of France and pull together a short visit via favorite images. Je vous invite à m’accompagner (come join me)…

In St. Rémy de Provence, these colorful baskets are just waiting for owners to nab them and go shopping at the lively Wednesday market…

Every market day, this berry vendor makes an art out of arranging her framboises (raspberries), mûres (blackberries), fraises (strawberries), and more. Though she was none too pleased when I took a photo of her wares and did not make a purchase. I told her the next time I was there with a kitchen available, I would make a tart with her fruits!

In the meantime, I can pick up a ready-made tarte aux framboises (raspberry tart) at Béchard in Aix-en-Provence. Béchard is a top-notch pâtisserie (pastry shop) in Aix and one of the primary purveyors of calissons (a regional specialty made with almonds and candied fruits).

The climate in Provence is so blessed that everything grows well, from all sorts of fruits to vegetables to flowers. And the olive–really a fruit–is a major player in this agricultural bonanza. I think this is my favorite olive vendor in all of Provence. There every Wednesday in St. Rémy, she has an amazing selection of cured olives and takes great care with her presentation…

When I pass by the vendor selling des oliviers (olive trees), I am tempted to buy a dozen and start an orchard. But olive trees are slow growing. It would take decades for them to mature and bear fruit.

But you can go to a pépinière (nursery) in the south of France and purchase 100-year old olive trees, no problem. In the village of Maussane near St. Rémy, I once saw a gardening team install a “decades old” olive orchard in one morning. C’était très impressionant (It was quite impressive)!

In addition to olives and olive oils, garlic and herbes de Provence are staples in Provençal cuisine. In fact, garlic is sometimems known as the “truffle of the South.”

Garlic, herbs and olive oil show up in all sorts of dishes including this luscious pizza from Chez Serge in Carpentras. (Pizza is not just for Italians!)

And one of my preferred dishes that combines the best of regional products is the salade Niçoise. Originally from Nice, you can find this lovely lunch option at many cafés. Les Deux Garçons in Aix-en-Provence has a version I particularly like…along with the requisite rosé wine.

For a tasty–and transportable–small Provence dessert, I drop by Joël Durand’s chocolate shop in St. Rémy and pick up a small box of his ‘alphabet chocolates.’ This talented chocolatier (chocolate chef), pictured here, has specialized in making artisan chocolates infused with local flavors, and each chocolate is known by a letter of the alphabet. My current choice is “L”…dark chocolate ganache with lavender essence. In the summer, he also has a lavender caramel enrobed in dark chocolate…hmmm…how to choose. The best part is that when you go in the shop, Monsieur Durand or one of his aimable associates will let you taste before you buy. Bonne dégustation (happy tasting)!

French Take-Out ~ La France  à emporter

When it comes to all there is to see, smell and taste in Provence, this post is just an “appetizer.” Come join us for more at our upcoming event “The Best of Provence / Gourmet Provence” on Sunday, February 7, at The Cultured Cup in Dallas, Texas. We’ll take a visual and tasting tour of the south of France and talk about what makes this region’s cuisine and culture special and unique. As an added treat, we’ll also enjoy a tasting of rare olive oils from the hills near Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. To register, contact us at 214-232-5344 or visit our web site.

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There are some things that are found only in France: the Tour de France bicycle race each summer, the Meilleure Baguette de Paris (Best Baguette in Paris) contest every March, fairytale châteaux by the hundreds, les villages perchés (hilltop villages) of Provence, transportation strikes when people need the Métro and trains most—i.e., at vacation time, le muguet (lilies of the valley) to celebrate May 1, over 400 varieties of fromage (cheese). The list could go on and on. The point is that while many of France’s riches are exportable, there are many that are not.

One of my favorite French treats does not often make it beyond its point of origin in the south of France. Part of the reason is its seasonality and the fact that it does not conserve well. This humble product is the olives cassées (cracked green olives) from la Vallée des Baux de Provence.

What are les olives cassées? They are the salonenque variety of olive that is very typical of the Les Baux valley. It is picked in late September or early October. (Olives destined to make the exquisite French olive oil are not harvested until late November or the beginning of December.) The early olives are cracked with a hammer to release their bitterness and then treated in a salt brine flavored with fenouil sauvage (wild fennel) and occasionally other herbs.

It might sound strange to wax poetic about a simple olive dish but once you have tasted the cracked olives from Les Baux, you will know what I mean. They have a nutty yet fruity olive flavor that is quite different from regular cured olives. In short, it is like tasting the fragrant hills of southern France. At previous French Affaires gourmet events where we have tried these delectable olives, those who don’t normally like any type of olive found them to be outstanding.

During what I call the ‘cracked olive season’ from roughly September to January, many southern French restaurants will serve the olives with your apéritif. You also can find them already prepared at local outdoor markets or occasionally in sealed jars in gourmet food shops. When I want to take the real thing to the U.S.–and successfully pass the customs inspectors, I look for jars of olives cassées made by Raymond Gonfond near Maussane-les-Alpilles. They prepare the cracked olives according to artisanal methods using the best olives from the region.

And if you want to make your own olives cassées, you can find the uncured salonenque olives at local markets. I noticed several vendors in October selling the bright green fruit. Note to self: Do not eat the uncured olives raw. They are mind-numbingly bitter!

Whether you purchase the olives ready-made or make your own in France, be sure to use a wooden or plastic spoon when transporting them to a serving dish. Contact with metal will cause the salt brine to turn an unattractive brown. You will see olive vendors at open-air markets always stick to wood or plastic when dishing up their wares.

The next time you are in the south of France during the fall or early winter, look for this unique Provençal treat—and toast one of the many wonders of France.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

Our French Affaires Weekly web postings are now in blog format–that is to say, we post and you can respond. Feel free to comment on that week’s topic, share your experiences, ask questions…In short, we invite you to be an active part of the French Affaires community and enjoy France from wherever you are based. Bienvenue (welcome)!

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