Elizabeth's Blog

Since my last online posting, I was in Paris for the French Affaires “Gourmet Paris” trip. Our lovely group savored the culinary delights of la Capitale, and I’ll be sharing some of our French foodie experiences in upcoming articles. I have also been deep into planning exciting new programs and events for 2011 that will bring the spirit of France to the U.S. in wonderful ways.  

As Christmas 2010 is almost upon us, this week’s post features holiday experiences some of my French friends and colleagues who live in Texas and have brought their French heritage with them. I asked them to share one thing that made Christmas special when growing up in France and also one thing they now do in the U.S. to add France to their holiday season. I hope you enjoy their stories–and I wish you and yours a “Joyeux Noël” (Merry Christmas), “Joyeuses fêtes” (Happy Holidays) and “Bonne Année” (Happy New Year)!! 

Isabelle de Wulf, Executive Director of the French-American Chamber of Dallas / Ft. Worth (www.faccdallas.com) :
“One thing that made Christmas special growing up in France was living in the countryside as a child, we would have a pine tree cut from the forest and hook candle holders on the branches. Then my dad would light the candles just before the Christmas celebration. Of course we had a bucket of water not too far!” 

“One thing I do now in Dallas to make my family’s Christmas season French is to eat turkey with ‘purée de marrons’ (chestnut purée) and order a ‘bûche de Noël’ (Christmas yule log) for dessert from Main Street Bakery!”

Betty Reiter, owner of the Betty Reiter boutique in Dallas:
“I have memories of wakening up on Christmas morning and checking the front of the fireplace for gifts. I also remember going with my dad to the Mouffetard food market in Paris near our apartment. I especially treasured the smells and visual displays at the market-and of course, the time with my dad. We would come back home and then enjoy the usual turkey stuffed with chestnuts and oysters. We would finish off our Christmas dinner with the bûche de Noël.

“As for now, if I am ambitious I try to make traditional Provence 13 desserts and always a big “réveillon de Noël” (Christmas eve dinner). We eat a lot late in the evening and if we don’t have oysters, we at least have some foie gras!”

Jean-Marie Cadot, chef and owner of Cadot French restaurant in Dallas (www.cadotrestaurant.com) :
“For me growing up in France, there wasn’t any one particular thing that made Christmas special. It was the combination of things similar to Christmas in many countries: family reunions, gifts & candy for the children, holiday church services & le Réveillon.” 

“Now in addition to spending time with family, much of my experiences and specialties with Christmas involve cooking. I prepare traditional French dishes such as capon, Lobster Thermidor, turbot, oysters, foie gras, caviar, chestnuts, bûche de Noël, and many others. Spending time in the kitchen preparing these especially for the season helps to put everyone (including myself) in the spirit of French Christmas at home in Dallas. And of course, I make all these French delicacies at my Dallas restaurant for the holidays!”

Cécile Marche, Marketing Director and co-creator of Dallas-based Frog du jour, the online shopping place for French treasures (www.frogdujour.com) :
“One thing that made Christmas special growing up in France was the emphasis on tradition and family. Christmas is the main moment of the year when French families spend time together. It’s so reassuring in this crazy world and in good times or bad to be near to those close to you.”

“My family and I now live in the U.S. and we make sure to have foie gras with toasts and Champagne with close friends as we wish each other a Joyeux Noël!”

Dr. Maurice Elton, former professor of French at SMU and owner of his French translation business:
“My mother was French and I grew up in England so we had more British Christmas traditions growing up. Of course, France is part of my heritage and I spent summers there with family when I was young. My wife and I have included some French elements in our Christmases over the years in the U.S. We have a collection of twelve books of Christmas around the world which we shared with our children when they were growing up. The book has the story of the Santons of Provence (clay figures of the nativity with villagers included), and we have almost the complete set of 110 figures by Marcel Carbonel that we purchased over the years in France. We display them at Christmas time. And some years, we celebrate the ‘Fête des Rois’ (feast of the Epiphany) with the galette des rois (King’s cake) to add a French flavor to our extended holiday celebrations.”

Anne-Lyse Ségur Hardesty, Part time intern with French Affaires:
“When I grew up in France, my family and I used to go to the midnight mass on Christmas Eve in a small church in a village in southwest France. The mass was really special because you could enjoy the birth of Jesus Christ with a live nativity scene. It was played by kids from catechism. For few years, I was shepherdess holding a real lamb and then Mary holding this time a newborn baby. The mass last one hour and half and then we came back home and ate the “bûche de Noel” and some exotic fruits.”

“Now being in the U.S., I of course miss my family back in France. The other thing I miss the most is the Christmas eve dinner which lasts five hours and includes ten courses. It has all the French specialties: foie gras, saumon fumé (smoked salmon), oysters, capon, bûche de Noël, and of course some good wine and Champagne. This year, my family sent my husband and me many of these wonderful foods and ingredients that I can’t find in the United States. So good long food preparation and a long wonderful dinner is waiting us for on Christmas eve!”

 French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter 

For a very special holiday gift, French Affaires offers gift certificates for upcoming events, programs, trip design and more. If you would like to give some for delivery this Christmas, send us an email asap at info.french@frenchaffaires.com and we’ll get it to you in time for December 25th!

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There are several locations in France which merit the designation “la route des châteaux,” or ‘ châteaux road’ including the Loire Valley and the Auvergne. One of the prettiest is found in the Médoc region in southwest France. The Médoc is the peninsula extending approximately 80 kilometers north of Bordeaux and is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the west and by the Gironde estuary on the east.  The term Médoc comes from the Latin ‘in medio aquae’ meaning ‘in the middle of the water.’ Beaches, pine forests and vineyards make up this fairly rural area of France, with the vineyards being among the most prized in French wine circles.

I recently had the chance to tour Médoc’s route des châteaux with British transplant Pamela Prior who has worked in the Bordeaux wine industry for more than 40 years. Vivacious and fun-loving, Pamela knows every inch of the château road (the D2 on a trusty Michelin road map) and was an expert guide and door opener to several exclusive vineyards.

First, she gave a short tutorial in the Médoc wine region’s characteristics. There are six AOC’s in Médoc: Listrac, Margaux, Moulis, Pauillac, St. Estephe, and St. Julien. (AOC stands for Appellation d’origine contrôllée; it’s the French government system of recognizing wine and where and how it is produced. It also applies to other products such as cheese.) The primary cépages, or grape varieties, grown here are cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Red wines, of course, are the star of the show in this region and are most often blends of several cépages.

We began our tour and tastings north of Pauillac, the capital of the Médoc. Our first stop was the charming Château Rousseau de Sipian. Its red wines are very fine and it also makes a smashing rosé which is perfect during warm summer months in southwest France. As Pamela currently serves as a wine consultant for the vineyard, she had access to the family château. We toured the 19th century mansion which has been beautifully restored. Several of the bedrooms are offered during the summer months as chambre d’hôtes and can be accompanied by gourmet meals served in the château dining room for a thoroughly enchanting stay.

Next, we headed south on the  Châteaux Road to Château Loudenne where Pamela served as châtelaine for more than a decade. The château has kept its signature Médoc pink color and was awash in climbing roses the day of our visit. Our tasting at Château Loudenne was followed by a lovely lunch at the Café Lavinal, in a restored village on the property of Château Lynch Bages.

Many of the big name chateaux are located in and around the town of Pauillac: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, and many more. It’s a fairyland of white stone and steeply pitched slate roofs with glorious wines attached to their names.

We ended our Médoc wine tour at the mythic Châteaux Margaux. Built in 1810, the stunning château commands your attention as soon as you enter the long drive. The property is unique for its outbuildings and cellars which are of the same period as the château itself. After visiting the chais (cellars and area where the wine is made), we went to the tasting room for a dégustation (sampling) of their wines. We were offered the chateau’s first wine, a premier grand cru classé aptly named “Château Margaux” from the 2006 vintage. It sells for several hundred euros a bottle—when you can get it. Most famous châteaux’s wines are snapped up even before the wines have been bottled. The next wine we sampled was the vineyard’s second wine called Pavillon rouge, a more affordable option at 95 euros a bottle. This was my favorite—it was strong yet immediately drinkable. The Châteaux Margaux 2006 needed a few more years of rest before it would soften up enough for my palate.

All in all, it was another one of those fabulous days in France where landscape, architecture, wine, food, good weather, and good company all came together. With so many châteaux and vineyards in the area, we just touched the tip of the iceberg with our one-day visit. The Médoc merits many such days. However, I must confess that while I loved tasting the wines, I could have been happy just driving slowly down the D2 road taking in the château eye candy.

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

We have a couple of good French Take-Out items related to today’s posting to share this week…

Bordeaux at home:  First, enjoy your own taste of the Bordeaux region with Frog du Jour’s set of Bordeaux wine label placemats. Frog du Jour is a U.S. based company run by French expats who are passionate about sharing French culture through interesting and unique products from France.The set of four placemats includes authentic reproductions of Bordeaux wine labels on cotton canvas. Click here to see the other three labels and to visit the Frog du Jour web site.

Dijon-Dallas French Week 2010:  If you love Bordeaux wines, you probably also are a fan of Burgundy ones as well. Not to be missed is a great wine and food experience beginning next weeked in Dallas, Texas. Dijon-Dallas French Week will be held at the Y.O. Steakhouse November 11 through November 18, 2010 featuring a week-long celebration of French dining and Burgundy wines. Guest Chef, Romain Détot, of Les Gourmets in Dijon, France, will be featured and Hugues Genot, President of the Association Dijon-Dallas, will be in attendance throughout the week. Dijon and Dallas are international sister cities. The November event follows last year’s celebration held in Dijon, where Tony Street, Chef & Owner of the Y.O. Steakhouse, cooked a Texas-themed Thanksgiving feast for Gala attendees in Dijon, France.

French Week 2010 will be held November 11 – 18 at the Y.O. Ranch Steakhouse in Dallas, with the French Week Gala evening scheduled for Friday, November 12. Each evening of Dijon Dallas French Week (November 11 and November 13 – November 18), Chef Romain Détot will prepare a three-course dinner with wine pairings. Tickets are $60 per person without wine or $80 with wine. An à la carte menu will also be available. Local area students are invited to join us to meet Chef Romain Détot and experience his amazing creations. On Tuesday, November 16, students and teachers (French, culinary or otherwise) receive 25% off of the three-course dinner. Tickets for all events may be purchased online or via phone reservations at 214-744-3287. Proceeds from the event will benefit the Association Dijon Dallas.

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Have you ever wanted French cuisine to be, well, a little more piquant (peppy)? Occasionally, I have. Don’t get me wrong, I love all aspects of French cuisine, especially those subtle tastes and flavors that the French do so well. But every so often, you need a meal with some spice. And when you do, just head down to the Basque country.

For about four centuries now, Basque cooks have been using their special spice factor—the piment d’Espelette—to flavor their cuisine. 

Introduced into the region around the village of Espelette from South America in the seventeenth century, this special chili pepper has added a smoky, fragrant and slightly hot taste to all types of Basque dishes including poulet basque (Basque chicken), jambon (ham), pâtés, piperade (slow cooked tomatoes, red and green peppers , and spices) and axoa (a ragout of veal that is to die for!). In fact, axoa is my favorite Basque dish.

As the peppers grow in Espelette and the villages nearby, they are green on the vine. Then the peppers are picked in the fall and hung to dry on balconies and buildings turning a deep red hue to form guirlandes de piments rouges (garlands of red peppers). Once dry, the peppers are often ground into a powder which you can buy in a small pot (jar) for about 6 euros. 

To figure out just how hot this chili pepper is, I consulted the Scoville scale. Developed in 1912 by the chemist Wilbur Scoville, the scale measures the spicy heat, or piquance, of chili peppers. The piment d’Espelette rates level 4 on the scale, slightly spicier than the ancho chili pepper but definitely less hot than the jalapeno. (I love the French terms on the scale below–cayenne ranks as ’torrid’ and tabasco as ‘volcanic’ in spiciness!)

So you can use piment liberally without putting your mouth on fire. In fact, the Espelettards (people from Espelette), have the following motto:  A consommer sans modération ! (Consume without moderation—a play on the phrase ‘A consommer avec modération’, consume in moderation , as required for alcoholic beverages in France.)

In practically any gourmet boutique in the Basque country, you can find the piment d’Espelette in a variety of forms-–the regular powder, jelly, jam, spicy oil for grilling, flavored salt, and even chocolats au piment d’Espelette. I found a wonderful jar of garlic cloves marinated in olive oil flavored with piment d’Espelette. And this vendor had a tempting array of dried spices that included mélange basque—basically a herbes de Provence mixture to which piment d’Espelette had been added.

This weekend, you can find all these products and more at the Fête du piment d’Espelette. The festival is held every year the last weekend of October in the town of Espelette itself. In addition to the food fair with piments and regional products for sale, there are parades, concerts, pelota games and a competition for the best chili pepper of 2010. On Sunday, everyone sits down to a piment-inspired lunch at one o’clock following the Sunday mass and bénédiction du piments (blessing of the peppers). This year’s festival also marks the tenth anniversary of the piment’s AOC status, an official recognition of this regional product’s uniqueness.

Check out the piment d’Espelette website for more details on the festival and on the French chili pepper: http://www.pimentdespelette.com/. I particularly liked the “Recette du mois” (recipe of the month) section—this month’s winner created a “Piperade façon tarte tatin et sa glace au piment d’Espelette” (a savory version of the dessert tarte tatin). You can click here to see her recipe.

If you are inspired to cook with the piment d’Espelette in the U.S., you can find it at a variety of stores online. When in France, you can of course buy some in any Basque town or in Paris at La Grande Epicerie on the Left Bank. Happy, hot French cooking!

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

French Affaires readers in Dallas can enjoy a piment d’Espelette festival of sorts next week at Cadot restaurant. French chef Jean-Marie Cadot is offering an Espelette chili dinner from October 25 to 29 which features five courses for $39.95. The Basque chili menu includes:

Tomato & Red Bell Pepper Garnished with Espelette Crème & Popcorn

Crêpes with Shrimp, Onions, Espelette & Hatch Chilies, & Scrambled Eggs with a Mixed Green Salad

Blackened Ahi Tuna with Hatch Chilies, Prosciutto, & Chichoré Lettuce

Cornish Hen with Lemon Preserves, Espelette & Hatch Pipperade, & Roasted Fingerling Potatoes

Crème Catalane (Crème Brûlée)

Cadot restaurant’s chef Jean-Marie is a native of Paris and grew up in a family that’s been in the restaurant, hotel and bakery business since the 1700’s.

He trained in France before continuing his culinary career in New York City and Dallas. He opened his Dallas restaurant Cadot in 2009 bringing wonderful traditional and new French flavors to the Dallas dining scene. Reservations are recommended for this special Basque chili dinner. For more information and to reserve, please click here.

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It’s fall in France and the U.S. and for me, it’s a return to winter cooking. I love gratins—vegetables such as potatoes layered with cheese and cream or milk—and hearty plats (main dishes) cooked with wine, mushrooms and onions. Sweaters and fires in the fireplace complete the picture.

A quintessential French winter dish of course is boeuf bourguignon (literally, Burgundy beef) which has enjoyed quite a renaissance lately due to the book-made-into-a-movie Julie & Julia. Julia Child’s recipe for this noteworthy stew made with Burgundy red wine is my favorite (pages 315 to 317 of Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol 1 or click here to see it online) and brings the region of Burgundy right into the kitchen.

But Burgundy is much more than its justly celebrated cuisine and wine: art, history, politics, culture, castles, nature, and more make this area of France worth exploring over and over again. Fortunately for several cities in the U.S., Burgundy is coming to us for the next two years—through its art. The spectacular exhibition “The Mourners: Medieval Tomb Sculptures from the Court of Burgundy” kicked off its American journey at the Metropolitan Museum of Art this past spring, made a stop in St. Louis and is now at the Dallas Museum of Art.

In the late 1300’s and 1400’s, the Dukes of Burgundy were powerful nobles and significant patrons of the arts. Two of the dukes, Philippe le hardi (Philip the Bold) and his son Jean sans peur (John the Fearless), were commemorated after their deaths by spectacular tombs housed today in Dijon’s Musée des Beaux-Arts.

While the Dijon museum is undergoing extensive renovations over the next few years, it is sharing the exquisite alabaster sculptures of mourning figures from the lower portion of John the Fearless’s tomb.

These pleurants, or Mourners—from the French verb pleurer meaning ‘to cry’ or ‘to weep’ in English—are about 16 inches tall and pack a powerful emotional punch. There are nearly 40 of the sculptures representing a funeral procession at the Duke’s death. As Sophie Jugie, the Director of the Dijon museum and exhibition curator, notes in the catalogue:

“The mourners from the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy are deeply affecting works of art. Beyond their evident visual & narrative qualities, we cannot help but be struck by the emotion they convey as they follow the funeral procession, weeping, praying, singing, lost in thought, giving vent to their grief, or consoling their neighbor. Mourning, they remind us, is a collective experience, common to all people and all moments of history.”

But the Mourners exhibition is far from sad or depressing. The figures are breathtaking as oeuvres d’art (works of art). They are sculptures that appear both medieval and freshly modern at the same time. And they are a witness to the artistic vision of the various sculptors who worked on them six centuries ago.

I have seen the Mourners several times—both in their native habitat in Dijon and at the Dallas Museum. The benefit of their American visit is that the figures can be appreciated to their fullest extent—i.e. we can view them on every side. In Dijon, the tombs provide a luxuriously beautiful context but the Mourners can only be viewed at a partial angle as their backs or sides are adjacent to the tomb.

Besides appreciating the figures ‘in the round’, other suggestions for getting the most out of this art exhibition are: 1) When viewing the hooded mourners whose faces aren’t immediately visible, be sure to bend down and look up into their hoods–their entire faces are there in wonderful human detail, 2) Go to the museum at a quiet time for a more contemplative viewing of the sculptures. Noisy, crowded galleries detract quite a bit from these artworks. 3) Take the viewing experience one step further and walk through it with medieval religious music playing on your IPod headphones. I can’t wait to do this last one!

Here is the Mourners exhibition schedule in the U.S.:

Dallas Museum of Art:  Through January 2, 2011

Minneapolis Institute of Arts:  January 23, 2011- April 17, 2011

Los Angeles County Museum of Art:  May 8, 2011 – July 31, 2011

Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Legion of Honor:  August 21, 2011 – January 1, 2012

Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, Richmond:  January 20, 2012 – April 15, 2012

(Before they return to the capital of Burgundy, however, the Mourners will make a final stop at the Cluny Museum, also known as the Musée national du moyen âge / National Museum of the Middle Ages, in Paris in 2012.)

The ideal would be to see them both in the U.S. and later when they go home to Dijon. Il faut rêver, n’est-ce pas? (We have to dream, don’t we?) At the very least, we are fortunate that Burgundy and a special part of its art will be in the States for about two years. Be sure and mark your calendar to see the Mourners exhibition closest to you—it is a gift of France not to be missed.

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

If you have not been to Burgundy, one of its signature images is its colorful roof tiles. The center of Dijon has several examples covering the roofs of houses and mansions built by the wealthy from the Renaissance until the French Revolution.

In nearby Beaune, you have one of the more flamboyant examples of roof tiles on the Hôtel-Dieu, the city’s former hospital. This fifteenth century building of Burgundian and Flemish architecture is a showstopper in every sense. In anticipation of seeing the real thing next time you are in France, you can pick up a charming carte maquette (paper model) version at The Whimsey Shoppe French antique store (Henderson location) in Dallas.

They also have several other paper models of beautiful French landmarks including the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris. To visit The Whimsey Shoppe online, click here.

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“A table!” (Time to eat!)

It’s easy when sitting down to a meal in France to think primarily about the food and the wine. After all, it’s arguably what the country is best known for.

But after years of meals in this gastronomically-blessed country, I make a point to look beyond what’s on the plate. Of course, the food is fabulous but I have realized that a significant part of dining pleasure—in Paris or in the provinces—is the setting. The table setting, that is.

From glassware to silverware to ceramics to linens, the French table brings these elements together with a panache that is uniquely français. Whether humble or haute, every item on the table speaks to French creativity, to French craftsmanship, and to the French love of proportion and order. Even the arrangement of breakfast breads in a basket exudes a French touch.

And yet, the art of the French table is hardly ever practiced in a vacuum (maybe at an industry trade show??). The French set a table with a clear purpose in mind—to enhance the food experience. Long ago, they realized that the aesthetics of dining are essential to enjoying what’s on the plate and what’s in the glass.

So when I am in France, I love to pay attention to table settings…to capture an idea, to get inspired, to appreciate yet another thing the French do very well. I then put these impressions together with my own personality to create my own French tables.

It doesn’t take much to create your own table à la française (in the French style). There are a few tried and true tenets that the French use to transform a potentially banal daily event into a work of art:

• Keep it simple
• Combine the practical and the aesthetic
• Mix the old and the new
• Add in some whimsy
• It’s all in the details

That said, it is still true that the French do it best—and on their own soil. Food writer and France-lover Elizabeth David sums it up thus:

“A country’s national food appears completely authentic only in that country…The climate, the soil, the ingredients, the saucepans, the stove, even the way of arranging the food upon the serving dish, of folding the napkins and setting the table, as well as the French attitude of mind towards food, and the very smell of their kitchens while they are cooking, all play their parts.” (From her classic volume French Provincial Cooking)

If you have a special recipe from your table, a photo of a memorable table setting chez vous, or a good “French table in France” story to share, please take a moment to post it here. We all could use some great ideas French-style. Possibilities for creating wonderful tables are endless—and opportunities to create new tables arise every day, three times a day. A la bonne table!

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à Emporter

French tables are on my mind this week. This afternoon, I had the great pleasure of giving an illustrated talk on the ‘Art of the French Table’ at Pierre Deux in the Dallas Design District. The lecture, food and wine evening was complemented by lovely examples of French provincial table settings throughout the store. Rather than lugging Provence pottery all the way back from France, I should have been checking out the offerings at Pierre Deux! It’s a bit of France for home and table here in the U.S.

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Today is a full-bodied, sunny August Sunday in the Médoc. As I wrote last week, I am spending time in southwest France this summer for work—with a bit of vacation thrown in. The time so far has been rich, and there are some good stories to tell about French culture, sights, history, geography, food, wine, and more. But in the spirit of getting the flavor of the place, here is a short résumé (summary) of highlights from the past couple of weeks:

Wine – Tasting Tour of Wineries in the Médoc

Wheels – Tour de France Bike Race in Pauillac

Water – French Beaches on the Atlantic Coast

WINE:  Basically, the Médoc—the area north of Bordeaux bordered by the Atlantic ocean on the west and the Gironde estuary on the east—is about wine and water. Some of France’s most spectacular coastline is here. And some of the world’s greatest vintages are produced here. You can drive down the “Route des châteaux” (chateau road) and see breathtaking castles surrounded by grapevines basking in the sun everywhere you look.

A few days ago, my husband and I were treated to an ‘insider’s tour’ of several Médoc wineries. Our guide was Pamela Prior, a glorious British woman who has spent her career in the wine business in this region. We started at the northern end of the Médoc and worked our way down for a grand finale tour and wine tasting at Château Margaux, a legend in French wine circles. As is the case at top tier chateaux, visiting the chais, or wine-making buildings and cellars, is by appointment only.

And the neoclassical chateau is only able to be admired from the outside…

Our two-hour tour ended with a tasting of the winery’s first wine—a Château Margaux 2006. It retails for about 350 euros a bottle–definitely not in my wine price range. While it was an extraordinary wine, it did need some more aging to mellow out. More accessible in terms of taste and price was the chateau’s second wine called “Pavillon rouge” also from 2006. What a great wine! It sells for about 25 euros a bottle but maheureusement (unfortunately) none of the chateau’s wines were for sale sur place (on site) as they are snapped up way in advance of production!

WHEELS:  A few days after arriving in the Médoc, we discovered that the Tour de France bike race was scheduled to come through the area on July 23^rd, the day before the triumphant finale on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. Riders would complete Etape 19 (Stage 19) of the Tour with the ‘contre-la-montre individuel’, or individual time trials, from Bordeaux to Pauillac, a small town that sits on the Gironde estuary. As fans of the Tour know, the time trials are a race against the clock for each individual coureur (rider). The trials began in Bordeaux at 10:25am with pairs of the slowest riders making the 50 or so kilometer trek to Pauillac and were staged all day long every few minutes ending with top riders Contador and Schleck who pulled into Pauillac about 5pm.

Brilliantly enough, our dear friend Pamela has a lovely flat on the main street of Pauillac with windows that overlooked the finish line. Here is a front-row-seat shot of the Arrivée with the action in full swing:

And here are spectators lining the route just prior to the finish line:

There was no shortage of souvenirs as this smiling vendeuse was happy to help Tour attendees with their purchases…

WATER:   If wine isn’t enough of an attraction, the Médoc has miles and miles of beautiful pristine beaches. From Soulac-sur-Mer in the north down to Cap Ferret (not to be confused with the Mediterranean’s Cap Ferrat!) and Arcachon in the south, the coast is perfect for sunbathing, surfing, walking, and swimming. However, as we experienced firsthand, the cross-currents and tides are very strong so swimming is recommended only in the lifeguarded areas…

The beaches have one of my favorite things about this time in France—there is so much coast that overcrowding is nearly a non-issue even at the height of tourist season (think Nice or Cannes in August). So if you’re looking for a new sunny spot to try in France, the Médoc may be just the place! 

Next week, I’ll have some more snapshots from southwest France and more French culture to savor. And if you’re on holiday in August like most of the French are at the moment, I wish you bonnes vacances! 

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Following last week’s “art walk” of French pastry shops, I thought it would be fascinant (intriguing) to go behind the pâtisserie scenes and see how some of this edible art is created. Our virtual visit takes us to Jouvaud, a divine pastry and chocolate shop in the heart of Carpentras in Provence.

The French Affaires Fall 2009 Trip visited Carpentras this past October as part of our “Best of Provence” adventure to France. Now I normally would not put Carpentras on my list of “must-do’s” while in Provence—no slight intended to those who live there. There are just other Provence towns and sights that are a higher priority in my book. But of course, food and related activities can make some destinations in France very palatable.

Friday is market day in Carpentras, drawing together social groups who don’t usually mix:  the local bourgeoisie, immigrants from North Africa, country people who live in the region, vacationers from Paris who have second houses nearby, and tourists. We were in Carpentras as guests of Serge Ghoukassian, the celebrated wine expert, passionate gourmand (foodie) and creative mind behind Chez Serge, his wonderful restaurant in the center of the old town. He makes a mission out of sharing les bonnes choses (good things) and les bonnes adresses (good contacts) so had put together a special food and wine day for us. Were we in for a treat!

Our first stop was Jouvaud which is owned and run by Serge’s close friends, Frédéric and Nicole Jouvaud. Frédéric’s parents began the successful venture in 1948, and today, three generations of their family are involved. Click here for the story of the family’s pastry odyssey in their charming online ‘scrapbook.’  They also own another pâtisserie in Avignon. 

As the town mobilized for the Friday outdoor market, we enjoyed coffee and viennoiseries (breakfast pastries) on the terrace in front of the shop. My pain aux raisins (raisin croissant) was hyper bon (wildly good).

You can see a small round chocolate peeking out from behind the pain aux raisins. They gave us some of their signature chocolates with “J” on them to sample with breakfast. The French are wonderfully generous, especially when it comes to good things to taste and to drink. And who could resist chocolate even at that hour of the day?

But this wasn’t the main show. After our petit déjeuner (breakfast), Serge took us up the back stairs of the shop to the kitchens where the daily pastry magic happens at Jouvaud. We met Frédéric who maintains a hands-on approach to running his sweets operation. Here he is in a tablier (apron) ensuring that each chocolate is perfect before placing them in the shop’s vitrine (display case) below.

In every corner of Jouvaud’s kitchens that morning, something wonderful was happening. I was particularly interested in the watching the cake chef create the chocolate shavings that garnished these for-the-moment-nondescript gâteaux (cakes).

First the chocolate is gently melted in the bain marie.

Next, the chef spreads a thin layer of chocolate on a prepared board. It is just the right consistency and temperature for him to lift it off and then expertly form it into chocolate waves.

They are then laid perfectly on the cakes. He makes it look si facile (so easy). I wonder how many times he attempted this in pastry school before it came out right?

I wish we had the time and space to share the whole tour here. But suffice it to say, all of Jouvaud’s sweet treat are worth a detour, and the entire staff is warm and welcoming. We ended up making Jouvaud our home base that entire morning in Carpentras. In case you make it to Carpentras soon, here are some quick snapshots of some of Jouvaud’s other spécialités de la maison (house specialties) which are indémodables (never out of style) and à ne pas manquer (not to be missed):

Les Fruits confits (candied fruits)–a must to try when in Provence

Candied clementines still in their syrup

Les Rocailles, meringues with bits of hazelnut and a gooey center, so named for their resemblance to the stones at the top of nearby Mont Ventoux. They come in vanilla, coffee & chocolate flavors.

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Art is top of mind this week. In our advanced French Conversation class, we read a recent article from Le Point magazine on French attitudes toward art and museums. In a February 2010 survey of 1000 French persons 18 years old and older, six Français sur dix ont déclaré visiter un musée au moins une fois par an (six out of ten reported that they visit a museum at least once per year). In addition, the survey noted that museums are where most French go to take in art. Interestingly, les expositions temporaires, les galleries et les foires (temporary exhibitions, art galleries and art fairs) garner less attention.

But some of our group wondered why the French did not go to museums more often with so many temples of great art at their disposal. Class participant Kathy declared in lovely French, “Si j’habitais en France, je visiterais un musée au moins une fois par semaine!” (If I lived in France, I would visit a museum at least once a week!)

This got me thinking about other types of “art” that the French frequent more often in their everyday lives. Take the neighborhood pâtisserie (pastry shop) for instance. The daily expositions (exhibitions) of pastry art in France are breathtaking.  The various arrays of les gâteaux et les tartes (cakes and tarts) are des chefs-d’oeuvre (masterpieces) of color, creativity AND flavor. I would be willing to faire un pari (make a bet) that the average French family enjoys an edible oeuvre d’art (work of art) at least once a week, whether at Sunday lunch with the family or while entertaining à la maison.

To see firsthand the fruits of these creative pastry labors, let’s take an “art walk” through various pâtisseries in Paris and Provence: 

Gosselin in Paris…EACH fresh raspberry has a perfect dot of raspberry glaze.

In Paris, Pierre Hermé’s Ispahan confection blends raspberry, litchi & rose.

 Béchard in Aix-en-Provence is a veritable field of raspberries.

 A cream puff of a cake also at Béchard in Aix.

Béchard even whips up ice cream cakes…Adieu Baskin-Robbins, bonjour Béchard!

In addition to all the regular art, I am fascinated by the mini versions of luscious pastries. What a labor of love to create each one of these little jewels. And their small size means you can taste a variety of flavors all the calories of the regular size. I wish more French pastry shops in the U.S. would include the mini pastries in their repertoire. Ah well, I’ll have to keep going to France for that one.

It is tempting to want to collectionner (collect) these edible art objects and keep them on the shelf, they are so beautiful. But of course, photos will have to do instead—and memories of wonderful tastes.

Next week, we’ll take a behind the scenes tour of a French pastry shop and see the art of pastry-making in action. Until then, add a comment at let us know your favorite type of French edible art!

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

My experience of Art in France is that the French highly value their culture, history and art. Museums—large grand ones like the Louvre or small regional ones, historic monuments, and châteaux are packed on weekends and often during the week. There is even a “French Heritage Days” weekend (Les Journées du Patrimoine) every September where fabulous buildings and properties—both government-owned and private—are open to the public for two days. The lines outside participating establishments are very long but the French consider it worth the wait.

If you are planning to be in France in September, you won’t want to miss this incredible weekend of French Art. While the Journées du Patrimoine web site is not up yet for 2010, you can bookmark it for future reference:  www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr/.

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…the concept of a “Restaurant week” has JUST made an appearance. This year for the first time chefs of more than 800 restaurants in France, including 200 restaurants in the Paris region alone, have joined forces to host “Tous au Restaurant” and share their passion for great cuisine.

From June 7 to 13, diners all over l’Hexagone are enjoying a gourmet lunch for 20,10 euros (you have to wonder where they got the ,10 euros?!) or 35 euros for dinner. Included are three courses: the ENTREE + PLAT + DESSERT (starter + main dish + dessert). From bistrots to regional restaurants to grand temples of cuisine, all types of eating establishments are participating in this effort to showcase French cuisine at its finest.

Inspired by the success of “Restaurant Week” in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London, and other countries, Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse organized this year’s restaurant fête through his company Alain Ducasse Entreprise. Most, if not all, of his restaurants are included in the operation including Benoit, Spoon, Aux Lyonnais, Le Relais du Parc, Le Relais Plaza, and La Bastide de Moustiers. Additional crème de la crème chefs include Guy Savoy, Hélène Darroze, Anne-Sophie Pic, Joël Robuchon, Pierre Gagnaire, Paul Bocuse, and others.

I find myself wondering why “Restaurant Week” has not appeared in France until now. Perhaps the reason is that every week is in effect ‘restaurant week’ in this country where food and wine are almost a religion. But making such an idea official and offering attractive prices is certainly a creative idea, especially during these slow economic times. And if anyone has the ability to pull his confrères together to make such an event happen, Monsieur Ducasse certainly does.

This week, I have perused the “Tous au Restaurant” web site several times to choose the restaurants where I would dine if I were in France right now and found some interesting possibilities. I am curious what our wonderful French Affaires readers would choose and why. To that end, let’s encourage everyone to check out the “Tous au Restaurant” web site and make their selections:

www.tousaurestaurant.com

Then let us know which restaurant(s) you would most like to visit and why in the comment section for this article. There will be a prize for the most creative entry submitted by Thursday, June 17th—a set of signed French Affaires notecards with original photos of Paris…perfect for speical correspondence or for framing!

And if there is anyone in the FA community who is in France right now and dining at some of the French restaurant week establishments, be sure and let us all know.

On another note…

Thank you, dear FA readers, for your participation and for your support of a little bit of France in the U.S. We’ll be back to our regular weekly posting schedule next week. Stay tuned for more interesting cultural, language and travel entries about one of the most beautiful places on earth—France!

Our new signed French Affaires notecards with original photos of France will soon be available on the French Affaires web site. The photo series will include the:

Best of Paris, Sacred Paris, Musée d’Orsay Paris, Paris Fleurs, French Markets, Best of Provence, Sacred Provence, Provence Markets…and more.

We’ll also post wonderful French antique and objet d’art finds from our French travels and séjours (stays) as they come available. Check www.frenchaffaires.com soon as we share more of the best of France.

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On Monday, French Affaires hosted celebrated food journalist and cookbook author Susan Herrmann Loomis as part of our French Affaires Book Series. She is currently based in France (more specifically in Louviers, Normandy) and runs her cooking school “On Rue Tatin” from there. Over a French-inspired lunch, she regaled our group of nearly 50 Francophiles with wonderful tales about cooking and living in France… “Every day I have at least one conversation with someone about FOOD.” In addition, she describes “France as a gracious place to live” but “the red tape is infernal” and “America has peanut butter. ”

Speaking of nuts, she made our mouths water when describing her ‘favorite three recipes’ from “Nuts in the Kitchen,” her new cookbook just out in April. She traveled from Turkey to Thailand to Sweden researching this latest labor of cooking love. Interestingly, she noted that the Swedes have made an art out of using nuts in cooking and that many good nutty culinary ideas come from that locale.

French Affaires’ next rendez-vous with chef Susan is our Paris market tour and cooking day in early November as part of the FA fall trip. Our French Affaires ‘Gourmet Paris’ travelers are in for a super-French culinary treat with her tremendous expertise and warm personality thrown in. Check out these photos of our previous ‘Gourmet Paris’ trip and cooking class with Susan:

And we look forward to hosting her in Texas next year for a multi-day cooking class where we all can roll up our sleeves and COOK.

Merci to all those who came out to enjoy a “breath of French air”…we appreciate your being part of our French Affaires community in the U.S.

And merci to you, Susan, for providing a “breath of French air”…and Happy Book Tour!

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