Elizabeth's Blog

On Monday, French Affaires hosted celebrated food journalist and cookbook author Susan Herrmann Loomis as part of our French Affaires Book Series. She is currently based in France (more specifically in Louviers, Normandy) and runs her cooking school “On Rue Tatin” from there. Over a French-inspired lunch, she regaled our group of nearly 50 Francophiles with wonderful tales about cooking and living in France… “Every day I have at least one conversation with someone about FOOD.” In addition, she describes “France as a gracious place to live” but “the red tape is infernal” and “America has peanut butter. ”

Speaking of nuts, she made our mouths water when describing her ‘favorite three recipes’ from “Nuts in the Kitchen,” her new cookbook just out in April. She traveled from Turkey to Thailand to Sweden researching this latest labor of cooking love. Interestingly, she noted that the Swedes have made an art out of using nuts in cooking and that many good nutty culinary ideas come from that locale.

French Affaires’ next rendez-vous with chef Susan is our Paris market tour and cooking day in early November as part of the FA fall trip. Our French Affaires ‘Gourmet Paris’ travelers are in for a super-French culinary treat with her tremendous expertise and warm personality thrown in. Check out these photos of our previous ‘Gourmet Paris’ trip and cooking class with Susan:

And we look forward to hosting her in Texas next year for a multi-day cooking class where we all can roll up our sleeves and COOK.

Merci to all those who came out to enjoy a “breath of French air”…we appreciate your being part of our French Affaires community in the U.S.

And merci to you, Susan, for providing a “breath of French air”…and Happy Book Tour!

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There are some things a textbook just doesn’t tell you about the French language. In my years as a former French professor and now as a French language and travel specialist, I find that you have to go to the source—France!—to get the real scoop.

Take the word bonjour, for example. When you learn to say bonjour (hello or good day) in French, most books explain what it means and show how it’s used in a simple conversation. That’s a good start. But they don’t mention that when you are in France, you should make your time there what I like to call a ‘bonjour fest.’

What exactly is a ‘bonjour fest’, you might ask?

When you enter a shop or boutique, when it’s your turn at the boulangerie (bakery) or chocolaterie (chocolate shop), when you approach the reception desk at your hotel, when you come into a restaurant, when you get into a taxi, when you reach the ticket counter at a museum, make eye contact with the French and say a nice, clear “Bonjour!” Better still, be sure to add on a crisp “Monsieur” (sir) or “Madame” (ma’am) to your French hello. This practice will go a long way towards positive human relations and a great French travel experience. 

Here’s why bonjour is so important: French culture is relationship oriented (as opposed to the more transactional American culture) so it is essential to acknowledge and respect individuals you meet. Of course, you don’t need to greet people you pass on the street—only those with whom you come into direct contact. And you can leave off the word “Salut!” (hi) as it’s too informal for anyone other than close friends or family.

Another aspect of bonjour which I have never seen in a French language textbook popped up a few years ago in Paris. I went to my neighborhood librairie (bookstore) to buy some books on my French reading list. I greeted the vendeur (salesman) with a nice “Bonjour, Monsieur” as I entered the shop, made and purchased my selections, and said “Au revoir, Monsieur” as I went out the door.

Later that day, however, I realized I had forgotten to buy a highly recommended livre (volume) so headed back to the book shop. As I entered, the salesman recognized me from earlier that day and called out “Rebonjour, Madame!” “Hello again, Madame!” It was a memorable moment. I was charmed to realize that even in a big metropolis like Paris, people remember you and acknowledge it. Ever since, when I run across someone more than once in the same day in Paris or elsewhere in France, I call out “Rebonjour!” and it never fails to put a smile on the receiver’s face. In fact, rebonjour remains my current favorite French word.

To sum up, whether it’s bonjour or rebonjour, say hello liberally when in France—c’est simple comme bonjour (it’s easy as pie)!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

The Parisian pâtisserie (pastry shop) Gérard Mulot makes rebonjour a must as it’s tempting to go there over and over again. Their macarons are some of my favorites including the bite-sized orange-gingembre (orange ginger) with bits of candied ginger or the lusciously fluffy noix de coco (coconut) version.

Gérard Mulot is near the Luxembourg Gardens so you can go there to walk off the calories for a guilt-free indulgence. Or you can get a small box to bring back with you on the plane–miam, miam (yum, yum).

Gérard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
www.gerardmulot.com

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In keeping with last week’s posting about dessert, it seemed fitting to continue with a variation on the sweet theme…though this time with a decidedly artistic tangent!

Recently, I was dining with friends at one of Paris’ oldest bistrots, La Fontaine de Mars, in the Rue St. Dominique and ended a classically French meal—steak frites—with an equally classic dessert…île flottante, or floating island. If you have never had it, île flottante is a fluffy mound of toasted meringue in a pool of crème anglaise (custard sauce). I like it after a heavier French dinner as it is wonderfully flavorful yet light.

When the evening’s dessert arrived, I was struck by its distinctive shape—it reminded me at once of French haystacks…the ones from Normandy that Monet painted time after time in various lights of day.

I thought about how Monet lovingly depicted the cone top with straight sides in the morning, afternoon and early evening. Having seen an exhibition years ago in France on Monet’s “series paintings” (haystacks, Rouen cathedral, poplars, water lilies), I was transported to peaceful fields adorned with that soft and tender light that bespeaks northern France… 

In preparing for a recent lecture on Normandy for the Dallas Museum of Art, I came across a photo of a French haystack under construction. The photo is part of the publicity for a fascinating collaboration this summer celebrating Impressionism. It’s called Normandie Impressionionniste 2010 and will take place all over Normandy, the home of this artistic movement. More than 160 towns, villages and organizations will host events and exhibitions including painting, contemporary art, music, cinema, theatre, dance, photography, video, literature, lectures, light and sound, and more. If you already have Normandy  in your summer travel plans, you are in for a rich treat…If not, it’s a reason to rush out and buy a ticket to France.

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Years ago, I did the Normandy ‘grand tour.’ My mother and I had rented a car and we took in the major sights in this rich corner of northern France: le Mont St. Michel, la Tâpisserie de Bayeux (the Bayeux Tapestry), les plages de débarquement (World War II landing beaches), the beachside towns of Deauville and Trouville, the gothic spires and half-timbered houses of old Rouen, Monet’s artistic haven at Giverny, and the miles of verdant countryside in between.

It was all spectacular but my most magical memory was the short afternoon we spent near the Abbaye du Bec-Hellouin, an ancient Benedictine monastery in a small Norman valley near the Bec river. As the gates were open, we drove into the monastery grounds to visit the beautiful 17th and 18th century buildings. What we did not know was that this enchanting place where time seemed to have stopped was closed to visitors.

A very proper monk came out to greet us and kindly sent us on our way. We regretfully left the premises and headed toward the adjacent village. We ended up at a true French auberge (inn) where we consoled ourselves with nice lunch of regional cuisine. To finish up, I tasted for the first time the Normandy chef d’oeuvre (masterpiece), la tarte tatin (the upside down, caramelized apple tart).

Just recently, I attended cooking school in Normandy where cookbook author and chef Susan Herrmann Loomis taught us how to make this quintessential Norman dessert. Susan runs “On Rue Tatin”, the appropriately named cooking school in Louviers about 30 minutes from Rouen.

We first went shopping for our apple tart ingredients at the local Saturday market. Il était une fois (once upon a time), Normandy was home to more than 2000 varieties of apples. Today, there are about 400. You can see many of these varieties on any given market day. Their beautiful shapes and colors made me wish that Monet had done some “series paintings” of Normandy pommes…

Our choice for the tarte tatin was the Cox Orange Pippin variety. You need apples that are somewhat tart and hold their shape–a French tarte tatin is definitely not an ‘applesauce tart.’

The first step in the recipe is to place the granulated sugar in the bottom of  the pan. Susan used a wonderful copper moule à tarte tatin (a pan made especially for cooking a tarte tatin). Then large slices of butter are laid over the sugar. The time-consuming part is peeling and coring all the apples…But you can leave them in halves–no slicing needed.

Then you arrange the apples artfully around the pan like so…

Next, the pan is placed on the stove (gas flame preferred) and the butter melts, the sugar caramelizes and then the apples begin to caramelize as well…

Once the apples are done (it takes about an hour), the prepared pastry is placed on top of the apples and the tart goes into the oven until the pastry is golden. Finally, the moment of truth…Susan flipped the piping-hot tart onto a serving plate and voilà! You can even see the steam rising…

After a nice lunch that we also prepared in this hands-on cooking class, we enjoyed a slice of the warm tart with a spoonful of crème fraîche. You could say that this dish is ‘Normandy on a plate.’

In the spirit of putting ‘theory into practice,’ I made a tarte tatin at home last weekend. It turned out perfectly and tasted of France at every bite. I can’t wait to make it again…even if it means peeling all those apples!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

French Affaires Fall 2010 Trip: “Gourmet Paris” – We’ll have the chance to cook with Susan Herrmann Loomis again on our culinary trip to the French capital. Susan will take us on a special market tour where we’ll buy seasonal ingredients for our multi-course lunch. Then she’ll lead us through a hands-on cooking class of quintessential French dishes that are perfect to make at home. Finally we’ll sit down and enjoy our culinary creations paired with wine. Trip dates: November 2 to 8, 2010. Trip details coming soon on the French Affaires web site!

“The Lens of Impressionism” exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art – This spring , the Dallas Museum of Art ‘goes to Normandy’ in this fascinating exhibit on the interplay of photography and impressionist painting along the Normandy coast from 1850 to 1874. Light, sky, clouds, sea, water, mood, and atmosphere were major themes for the French artists in this time and place. The show is accompanied by a Saturday lecture series, Late Night events and even culinary experiences in partnership with Rise No 1 restaurant. For the culinary sessions, the DMA is offering the member discount to French Affaires patrons–just be sure to mention “French Affaires” when registering. More information on the exhibition and other events can be found here.

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I woke up this morning thinking about Provence…the bright sun, rich colors, intense flavors. As I am not sur place (there in person)—and also as an antidote to winter– I decided to give myself a taste of this special region of France and pull together a short visit via favorite images. Je vous invite à m’accompagner (come join me)…

In St. Rémy de Provence, these colorful baskets are just waiting for owners to nab them and go shopping at the lively Wednesday market…

Every market day, this berry vendor makes an art out of arranging her framboises (raspberries), mûres (blackberries), fraises (strawberries), and more. Though she was none too pleased when I took a photo of her wares and did not make a purchase. I told her the next time I was there with a kitchen available, I would make a tart with her fruits!

In the meantime, I can pick up a ready-made tarte aux framboises (raspberry tart) at Béchard in Aix-en-Provence. Béchard is a top-notch pâtisserie (pastry shop) in Aix and one of the primary purveyors of calissons (a regional specialty made with almonds and candied fruits).

The climate in Provence is so blessed that everything grows well, from all sorts of fruits to vegetables to flowers. And the olive–really a fruit–is a major player in this agricultural bonanza. I think this is my favorite olive vendor in all of Provence. There every Wednesday in St. Rémy, she has an amazing selection of cured olives and takes great care with her presentation…

When I pass by the vendor selling des oliviers (olive trees), I am tempted to buy a dozen and start an orchard. But olive trees are slow growing. It would take decades for them to mature and bear fruit.

But you can go to a pépinière (nursery) in the south of France and purchase 100-year old olive trees, no problem. In the village of Maussane near St. Rémy, I once saw a gardening team install a “decades old” olive orchard in one morning. C’était très impressionant (It was quite impressive)!

In addition to olives and olive oils, garlic and herbes de Provence are staples in Provençal cuisine. In fact, garlic is sometimems known as the “truffle of the South.”

Garlic, herbs and olive oil show up in all sorts of dishes including this luscious pizza from Chez Serge in Carpentras. (Pizza is not just for Italians!)

And one of my preferred dishes that combines the best of regional products is the salade Niçoise. Originally from Nice, you can find this lovely lunch option at many cafés. Les Deux Garçons in Aix-en-Provence has a version I particularly like…along with the requisite rosé wine.

For a tasty–and transportable–small Provence dessert, I drop by Joël Durand’s chocolate shop in St. Rémy and pick up a small box of his ‘alphabet chocolates.’ This talented chocolatier (chocolate chef), pictured here, has specialized in making artisan chocolates infused with local flavors, and each chocolate is known by a letter of the alphabet. My current choice is “L”…dark chocolate ganache with lavender essence. In the summer, he also has a lavender caramel enrobed in dark chocolate…hmmm…how to choose. The best part is that when you go in the shop, Monsieur Durand or one of his aimable associates will let you taste before you buy. Bonne dégustation (happy tasting)!

French Take-Out ~ La France  à emporter

When it comes to all there is to see, smell and taste in Provence, this post is just an “appetizer.” Come join us for more at our upcoming event “The Best of Provence / Gourmet Provence” on Sunday, February 7, at The Cultured Cup in Dallas, Texas. We’ll take a visual and tasting tour of the south of France and talk about what makes this region’s cuisine and culture special and unique. As an added treat, we’ll also enjoy a tasting of rare olive oils from the hills near Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. To register, contact us at 214-232-5344 or visit our web site.

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There are some things that are found only in France: the Tour de France bicycle race each summer, the Meilleure Baguette de Paris (Best Baguette in Paris) contest every March, fairytale châteaux by the hundreds, les villages perchés (hilltop villages) of Provence, transportation strikes when people need the Métro and trains most—i.e., at vacation time, le muguet (lilies of the valley) to celebrate May 1, over 400 varieties of fromage (cheese). The list could go on and on. The point is that while many of France’s riches are exportable, there are many that are not.

One of my favorite French treats does not often make it beyond its point of origin in the south of France. Part of the reason is its seasonality and the fact that it does not conserve well. This humble product is the olives cassées (cracked green olives) from la Vallée des Baux de Provence.

What are les olives cassées? They are the salonenque variety of olive that is very typical of the Les Baux valley. It is picked in late September or early October. (Olives destined to make the exquisite French olive oil are not harvested until late November or the beginning of December.) The early olives are cracked with a hammer to release their bitterness and then treated in a salt brine flavored with fenouil sauvage (wild fennel) and occasionally other herbs.

It might sound strange to wax poetic about a simple olive dish but once you have tasted the cracked olives from Les Baux, you will know what I mean. They have a nutty yet fruity olive flavor that is quite different from regular cured olives. In short, it is like tasting the fragrant hills of southern France. At previous French Affaires gourmet events where we have tried these delectable olives, those who don’t normally like any type of olive found them to be outstanding.

During what I call the ‘cracked olive season’ from roughly September to January, many southern French restaurants will serve the olives with your apéritif. You also can find them already prepared at local outdoor markets or occasionally in sealed jars in gourmet food shops. When I want to take the real thing to the U.S.–and successfully pass the customs inspectors, I look for jars of olives cassées made by Raymond Gonfond near Maussane-les-Alpilles. They prepare the cracked olives according to artisanal methods using the best olives from the region.

And if you want to make your own olives cassées, you can find the uncured salonenque olives at local markets. I noticed several vendors in October selling the bright green fruit. Note to self: Do not eat the uncured olives raw. They are mind-numbingly bitter!

Whether you purchase the olives ready-made or make your own in France, be sure to use a wooden or plastic spoon when transporting them to a serving dish. Contact with metal will cause the salt brine to turn an unattractive brown. You will see olive vendors at open-air markets always stick to wood or plastic when dishing up their wares.

The next time you are in the south of France during the fall or early winter, look for this unique Provençal treat—and toast one of the many wonders of France.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

Our French Affaires Weekly web postings are now in blog format–that is to say, we post and you can respond. Feel free to comment on that week’s topic, share your experiences, ask questions…In short, we invite you to be an active part of the French Affaires community and enjoy France from wherever you are based. Bienvenue (welcome)!

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The French love the earth. This passion takes various forms. For many French, having a garden is de rigueur (a must). Whether a large potager (vegetable garden) in the country or a few herbs in pots on the apartment balcony in Paris, a bit of dirt in which to make things grow is a link to the land.

The earth and the French meal experience are also tightly linked. The notion of terroir, which roughly translates as ‘taste of the earth’, means that food and wine taste of where they are grown and produced. French people know this well and appreciate the nuances of flavor and aroma that speak to the richness and variety of French soils and terrains. Restaurant menus often describe where a main ingredient is grown or raised as part of the dish.

Moreover, the French have an innate love of la campagne (the countryside) and spend good chunks of time out in nature. Walking in rural areas is a favorite pastime and in the fall, mushroom hunting inevitably becomes part of the outdoor, earthy fun. The French are proud of their ability to seek out mushrooms and distinguish good ones from those that are poisonous. But when in doubt, local pharmacies can verify which mushrooms are ‘keepers’.

If you are just passing through France and can’t get out to the country for a good mushroom hunt yourself, then I highly recommend a visit to the local market during mushroom season. You’ll see an astounding variety of fungi–and a multitude of customers lined up trying to buy the best of that day’s ‘catch’.  A couple of weeks ago, I was fascinated by this vendor in Aix-en-Provence who was selling the usual suspects such as cèpes and girolles, as well as many mushrooms I had never heard of…

You can also find restaurant chefs taking advantage of the seasonal riches with mushroom dishes featured prominently on menus. Earlier this month, I enjoyed grilled artichokes, onions and mushrooms at Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris, as well as a lovely mushroom tart at an outdoor lunch near St. Rémy-de-Provence.

Currently, I am back in the States and starting my own ‘mushroom hunt’ to see what’s available at the supermarket to this home chef. And dreaming of the embarras du choix of mushrooms in France.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

An easy way to enjoy the maximum flavor of wild or domestic mushrooms is to sauté them in a bit olive oil and butter. The fricassée of mushrooms is great with meat dishes or folded into omelets. Patricia Wells has a wonderful recipe in her cookbook Simply French: Patricia Wells Presents the Cuisine of Joel Robuchon. Ina Garten also takes advantage of the fall specialty in her cookbook Barefoot in Paris: Easy French Food You Can Make at Home. Enjoy the mushroom season!

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If there’s one thing the ‘Julie & Julia’ movie and book hype has done, it’s to make France and things French pretty cool again here in the U.S. Sales of Julia’s book Mastering the Art of French Cooking are going through the roof. Julia-themed French dinners are popping up in restaurants all over the country. Cooking too is hip once more, particularly French cooking.

It’s a welcome change from the frosty Franco-American relations in the aftermath of 9/11 and the U.S. invasion of Iraq. Almost overnight, France became the ‘country non grata’ to many Americans. This reaction led to “freedom fries” and the purging of many a wine cellar of its French wines. I wonder if Julia knows she’s helped America fall back in love with France?

As her heyday was (unfortunately) before my time, I have come to know Julia through her cooking volumes, DVDs of The French Chef and other books such as her autobiography My Life in France. But what made her real to me was a visit three or four years ago to her former home in the south of France, la Pitchoune.

Meaning “the little thing,” la Pitchoune, or “la Peetch” as she and her husband Paul nicknamed it, is located in the hills near the village of Grasse. As she wrote in My Life in France:

“The little house was just as we’d dreamed it would be: tan stucco walls, red-tiled roof, two chimneys, wooden shutters, and a stone terrace…La Peetch was set into a hill that had been terraced with low stone berms and was studded with olive trees, almond trees, and lavender bushes. The top of the driveway was just big enough to turn around a compact French car in…A spreading mulberry tree hung over the terrace…And we partially renovated a small stone shepherd’s hut, the ‘cabanon’ to use as a combination wine ‘cave’ / painting studio / guest room.”

Today, la Pitchoune is home to the culinary school Cooking with Friends in France run by American Kathie Alex. My visit to “la Peetch” coincided with a business trip to nearby Nice. I was invited to dinner by a business colleague’s wife who was spending the week cooking with Kathie. I jumped at the chance to enjoy an evening of good food and company—and also to see Julia’s unassuming southern France kitchen where she worked on many of the recipes for Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

While it was touching to walk in her footsteps, most memorable was the sight of Julia’s kitchen wall where Paul had mounted her signature pegboard and outlined her pots, pans and utensils with a black marker. It was wonderfully retro and immediate at the same time.

Now that Julia is back in the mainstream again, I treasure even more my tangible brush with her love of France and French cuisine. And although good cooking—French or otherwise—won’t resolve the current economic crisis, difficult wars, religious divides, education issues, or healthcare woes, it is honest and soulful and essential (everyone has to eat). Perhaps most important, it creates connection and community around the table. Cheers, Julia!

French Take-Out  ~ La France à emporter™

The south of France and cooking schools are made for each other.

To enjoy a full week of cooking experiences with Kathie Alex at La Pitchoune near Grasse, check out Cooking with Friends in France . With classes in Julia’s kitchen and visits to nearby markets, the emphasis is on fabulous French food and friends in France—what more could one want?

For cooking school French-style, nothing can beat a morning session with Reine Sammut, the chef of Auberge la Fenière  near Lourmarin. Reine is truly an artist in the kitchen, and her inn is a magical space in a magical part of Provence.

And if you can’t get away to a cooking school in the south of France, then you can bring it to you. Save the date for the French Affaires Gourmet Provence Workshop  where we’ll go deep into the signature tastes and flavors of Provence. We’ll meet on November 8th at The Cultured Cup in Dallas for food, culture and a visual tour of what makes this region and its cuisine so special.

I love the book Cooking School: Provence  by Guy Gedda. It marries step-by-step instruction with southern French flavors and dishes. A wonderful way to bring Provence chez vous.

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In France, the sacred continues to infuse holiday life and cuisine even if some of the original meaning has lost its punch. According to the Bible, three kings or Magi came from the Orient and brought the baby Jesus gold, frankincense and myrrh. The Christmas carol “We Three Kings of Orient Are” recounts this journey and arrival. Today, the arrival of these three kings is celebrated twelve days after Christmas on January 6. Many French continue to celebrate this day known as la Fête des rois (Three Kings Day, or Feast of the Epiphany) with its signature galette des rois (kings’ cake). 

You know the Feast of the Epiphany is nigh when the galettes des rois take over many pâtisseries in France. In Paris, I was walking by the stop-worthy pastry shop Rollet-Pradier in the Rue de Bourgogne in the seventh arrondissement and spotted the tell-tale flat cakes resting in the vitrine (shop window).

So what exactly is a galette des rois? In most parts of France, the galette is made of puff pastry filled with a delicious almond cream.* What makes the cake and the holiday eternally festive is the tradition of hiding a lucky charm, or fève (literally a “bean”) in the cake. Even though pastry chefs today use small porcelain figurines instead of a bean, family and friends still gather around the table as the cake is cut.* And whoever receives the piece with the fève inside is king or queen for the day and wears the gold paper crown that accompanies the galette.

A couple of years ago, a friend and I were in Paris in January and shopping for Sunday-night dinner at the Boulevard Raspail outdoor market. As it was a casual supper, we bought soup that was prête à manger (ready to eat), une quiche aux poireaux (leek quiche), la laitue (lettuce) for a beautiful green salad with homemade vinaigrette, and some stunning brie au lait cru (raw milk brie) for our cheese course.

And since it was Fête des rois time, we noticed the bread and pastry vendor was selling les galettes des rois, both whole cakes and quarter portions. Perfect! We bought a quarter–and took our market loot back to the apartment. After a thoroughly simple and satisfying meal, we cut the kings’ cake and in my one-eighth piece was an adorable porcelain magi kneeling with his gift for the infant Christ. What are the odds, I thought. And I was reine (queen) for a day–in Paris!

* The Provence version is more like brioche, a rich egg bread, and is studded with candied fruits.
* Les fèves have become quite collectible, particularly the porcelain ones. While in Provence in June, I loved browsing the long tables at this marchand de fèves (lucky charm vendor–what a job!) at the Aix-en-Provence outdoor market.

 Bonne fête!

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