Elizabeth's Blog

I often get asked about my favorite places to go in France. With the amazing variety of options the country offers, that is indeed a tough question! In fact, it is said that in France the landscape and cultural character of the place changes every 30 kilometers. For a country about the size of Texas, that is quite extraordinary if you think about it.

Given the riches found all over France, I still have landed on my favorite places – places where I have lived. Places where I was a student. Places where I put down my French roots. Places that sustain my creative soul.  Places home to my good French friends. Charming places that I return to again and again. Places so special they have to be shared with other travelers to France.

With that in mind, I am excited to spotlight two of my absolute favorite French locales for our French Affaires’ insider trips this year. Provence, which has been my cultural and creative home for over 25 years, is our first destination. Provence could be described as heaven on earth. It is the land of French sun, fabulous landscapes, marvelous colors, extraordinary food and wine, deep history, and cultural offerings of every kind. And I’d also say that just sitting outdoors and enjoying an aperitif in Provence is a vacation in and of itself. If you have never been to southern France or if you’ve been but wish to experience it in a more meaningful and personal way, you’ll want to make plans to join our small group for this lovely week of “Provence bests” in September.

Our second destination this year is the Loire Valley, also known as the “garden of France.” French kings in the Renaissance made it their favorite destination and built sumptuous châteaux surrounded by exquisite gardens. It has been one of the top travel spots in France ever since. Our trip includes visits of famous châteaux such as Chenonceau, Villandry and Rivau and also includes wonderful lesser known manor houses and gardens for a very intimate feel. We’ll also enjoy a couple of days in Paris to experience gardens there as well as a visit to Monet’s  Giverny just outside the capital. Late September, early October is one of the best times to visit France with fewer tourists, delightful weather and another garden viewing season. Joining us for this trip will be Jane Holahan, a Loire Valley gardens specialist and former resident of the Loire Valley.

French Affaires’ trips to France are small, personal and full of magical experiences. Our French friends and colleagues pull out all the stops to show us what is special about their part of France. Just as important, our trips include just about everything for your stay. So you feel like you are visiting friends or family in France rather than running around as a paying tourist!

Below are overviews of both France excursions with links to the full trip descriptions. And with the euro currency at historic lows right now, we are able to offer a discount of $200 off each trip price for those signing up by February 3, 2012. See the full trip description for pricing and details.

“The Best of Provence with French Affaires” September 21 to 28, 2012 – Join Dr. Elizabeth New Seitz of French Affaires for a once-in-a-lifetime insider excursion to southern France. Possibly the most beautiful and rewarding region in all of France, Provence is known for its picturesque villages, stunning countryside, flavorful cuisine, wonderful wines, colorful and fragrant gardens, superb fountains, and relaxed culture. On our itinerary: the delightful towns of  St. Rémy, Les-Baux-de-Provence, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence; gourmet Provençal meals; wine tastings; private cooking class; shopping open-air markets; art tour with Provence artist Jill Steenhuis; the gardens of Château Val Joanis, and of course, enjoying the spectacular landscape and ambiance of Provence. Our hotel, the Château des Alpilles, is located just outside the charming town of St. Rémy for that winning ‘stay-in-the-French-countryside-with-the-town-nearby’ experience. Our group size is limited to 12 for a very special and intimate travel experience. An unforgettable personal and special immersion into the best of southern France. Please click here for the full itinerary description.

“Great Gardens & Châteaux of the Loire Valley” plus Monet’s Giverny & Paris Gardens September 30 to October 6, 2012 – Join us for this spectacular trip to France featuring great châteaux and gardens of the Loire Valley. We’ll take in the beautiful architecture of châteaux such as Chenonceau known for its soaring arches over the Indre River. We also will be treated to guided visits of well-known gardens such as Villandry—notably the most magnificent and inventive garden in all of France—and lesser known private gardens not usually accessible to the public. Our stay in the Loire Valley will be made all the more special by our lovely accommodations in château hotels in the region. Other trip highlights include two days based in Paris. From there, we’ll enjoy guided visits to Monet’s gardens and manor house at Giverny in Normandy—if you’ve never seen them in the fall, they are a must at this time of year! We’ll also have a walking tour of Paris’s amazing Luxembourg Gardens in the heart of the Left Bank. Not to miss as well are Paris’s finest garden stores and garden bookstores. Our group size is limited to 12 for a very special and intimate travel experience. Don’t miss this insiders’ trip to the Loire Valley and Paris seen through fabulous French gardens, châteaux and manor houses! Please click here for the full itinerary description.

For questions about either trip or to be sent the full itinerary and registration form, please email us at info.french@frenchaffaires.com. We look forward to hearing from you!

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Even French children make the outdoor ‘furniture’ their furniture…

But you have to pay attention to the ubiquitous “Do not walk on the lawns” signs…The French are particular about their grass…

Personally, I would rather see something more creative like “Do Not Walk on the Pyramids” signs. They seem rather walkable, no?

In any case, even if it’s freezing outside, the least amount of sun will bring out scores of park lovers:

Whatever the weather, I like to call Paris’s gardens and parks “outdoor rooms” as they seem to be an extension of home living space…you can even move chairs wherever you see fit…not a bad deal–and no French language required!

And here is a short list of some of my favorite Paris green rooms which are found all over the city:

• Parc Monceau (Right Bank)
• Luxembourg Gardens (Left Bank)
• Tuileries (Right Bank)
• The garden tucked behind Notre Dame Cathedral (Ile de la Cité)
• The garden at the Delacroix Museum (Left Bank)
• The garden at the Rodin Museum (Left Bank)
• The garden at the Carnavalet Museum (Right Bank)

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

The French also like to make their own gardens in window boxes, on balconies, in a small plot behind a house in the country–wherever there is a bit of dirt. Of course, for that you need gardening tools, and the French company Le Prince Jardinier has the crème de la crème of anything you need to maintain your green spaces. Note that this is high-end stuff–you could call it the “Hermès” of the gardening world. 

And speaking of dirt, the French Affaires book pick for April is French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France. We will gather to discuss this wonderful love affair with French gardening on Saturday, April 24th, at North Haven Gardens in Dallas. As part of our festive spring book event, NHG gardening expert and coach, Kay Nelson, will talk to us about growing French herbs here in the U.S. See the details below! (For full information on the French Affaires Book Series, please visit our web site.)

APRIL 2010

French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France by Richard Goodman

“I had a garden in the south of France…” So begins our French book pick for April. Author (and New Yorker) Richard Goodman describes his gardening adventure in a small village near Avignon where he discovers the riches of the earth as well as French friendships in his adopted close-knit community.  Perfect for spring, French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France will inspire us to consider our own herb or vegetable gardens at home.

We’ll meet for our April book discussion at Dallas’ gardening heaven North Haven Gardens where gardening expert and coach, Kay Nelson, will lead us on a tour of the vegetable garden and herbs offered by NHG. Following her tour and tips for gardening in North Texas, we’ll enjoy wine and savory / sweet gourmet tastes made from French herbs as we discuss this month’s book selection. And we’ll take away a small herb gift as a fragrant souvenir of our gathering. Pre-registration is required; to sign up, please click here or call us 214-232-5344.

Date:  Saturday, April 24, 2010
Time:  4 to 5:30pm
Refreshments:  Herb-inspired savory hors d’oeuvres and sweets and French wine
Location:  North Haven Gardens, 7700 Northhaven Road, Dallas, Texas, 75230

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Wherever I am in France, I never pass up the chance to visit a garden. Even in winter, I find French landscapes and gardenscapes enchanting and intriguing on many levels.

The Sunday after Christmas, I set out to experience the gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac (Eyrignac Manor) which boasts of le plus beau jardin du Périgord, or the most beautiful garden in Périgord. Located in southwest France, Périgord is the land of truffles, foie gras, walnuts, prehistoric sites, medieval villages, cliff-top castles, and the Dordogne and Lot rivers. Although the privately held manor and its 18th century gardens are located on a back country road, numerous signs point the way to this verdant extravaganza near the picturesque town of Sarlat.

I had the Eyrignac gardens on my agenda as they are reknowned for some of the finest topiary art in Europe. Various shades of green are highlighted throughout the four seasons with the artfully trimmed bushes and trees. It takes a team five full time gardeners to maintain the various ‘outdoor rooms’ on the grounds.

Not a soul was at the Manoir d’Eyrignac when I arrived. Even the woman selling entrance tickets had to hike over from the business office to open up as she didn’t expect any visitors on this frosty, misty morning. I decided the 9,50 euros to get in was worth it to have the 4 hectare (10 acre) gardens to myself, cold or no cold.

The exquisite Jardin français lies in front of the manor house. It was originally designed to be best seen from the second floor of the dwelling. Since I don’t know the owners and couldn’t see it from the house (!), my view is from the gardens back towards manor. Still, I think this was my favorite ‘room’ of the gardens.

The gardens are accented by other buildings on the property. The anciennes écuries (former stables) are situated next to the spring fed pond which provided water for the horses once upon a time…

There is also the romanesque chapel which is still consecrated and where all the family members have been baptized… 

Another ‘outdoor room’ is the Allée des vases which is named for the Italian ceramic vases that line the grassy “path.” At this time of year, they are wrapped in black plastic to protect them and the plant roots from the cold. The tall evergreens lining the allée give a secret air to this part of the gardens.  

Next to the Allée des vases is a wide lawn with topiary bushes and fancy arabesques. I wonder if creating these shapes is a bit like painting or embroidering with plants??

In other parts of the gardens, Asian-inspired elements complement the classical French garden designs. Several red lacquer archways provide eye-catching perspective points in the rose garden…

And the red lacquer pagoda at the end of this trimmed garden path gives a touch of the exotic to les jardins. But the winter mist has toned down the red this particular morning…

Even though the weather was a bit nippy and damp, I loved my ‘private visit’ to the jardins d’Eyrignac. I found it hauntingly beautiful on this winter’s day…and I think I will be spoiled when I go back in warm weather and have to share it with other garden lovers. But of course, there is more than enough beauty to go around in this lovely spot in France. Just to be sure to mind the signs to stay off the grass!

The Jardins du manoir d’Eyrignac are open every day of the year. You can visit the web site for specific hours and directions: www.eyrignac.com.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

For a taste of 18th century French culture and garden aesthetics here in the States, plan to attend the upcoming lecture by professor Eric Haskell on January 13th in Dallas, Texas. Dr. Haskell will speak at SMU’s Meadows Museum of Art on “The Era of Elegance: French Culture in the 18th Century.” The lecture will begin at 6pm followed by a reception at 7pm. Tickets are $60 per person. This event is sponsored by the French Heritage Society’s Dallas Chapter. For reservations, patrons can call 214-363-9568.

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