Relocation, Relocation, Relocation Tuesday, Jul 27 2010 

In the world of real estate, the three magic words of the profession are ‘location, location, location.’ Success is based on the value of place–think ‘Boardwalk’ and ‘Park Place’ on the Monopoly game board.

When in France, I adopt this adage to my time spent there—and it becomes ‘relocation, relocation, relocation.’ Whether I am in this gorgeous country for a few days, a week, a month, or several months, I consider myself to be living as a full-time resident. It’s a state of mind. It’s a way of being and acting. Success in this context is living the sense of French place to the fullest.

I am spending a good part of this summer in France, and it feels wonderful to be ‘home.’ I am here with my American husband—as many friends of French Affaires know, I was married for the first time a few months ago—who is also at home in France and of Europe. We have ‘relocated’ to the Bordeaux area for several weeks for both work and vacation.

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On the French Affaires web site, I will be posting current adventures from our southwest France experience in the days to come including this year’s Tour de France race, the Bordeaux wine country, bastide towns in the Dordogne, the varied countryside of the Médoc, beaches on the Atlantic coast, French lighthouses, French oysters…

But first, here are some of the small French pleasures I love to come home to (in no particular order!):

-       Delicious  wines by the ‘pichet’ (pitcher) at French restaurants

-       Windows open all day long, particularly for the cool air at night

-       Fruits and vegetables just picked from gardens

-       Long lunches on outdoor ‘terrasses’

-       Real French camembert cheese made from raw milk

-       Lovely qualities of sun and light in France

-       Relaxing walks on French country roads

-       Buying fresh baguettes every day

-       Mind-boggling selections of mineral waters, yogurts, breads, pâtés, cheeses & wines

-       Beautiful ancient churches in every town and village

-       Reading French newspapers and magazines

-       Diving into French novels in the country where they were written

-       Open air markets in every city, town & village

-       French and European friends old and new

But there are so many things to enjoy about France, please share your favorites too in the comment section of this posting. Meanwhile, bonjour from la belle France!

Paris in Red, Pink and “Love” Tuesday, Feb 23 2010 

It’s a good thing Valentine’s Day is in February. I don’t know about you, but I need some couleur (color) during the winter.

In Paris, the days leading up to this year’s la fête des Amoureux (the Holiday of Lovebirds) were a riot of hues chez les fleuristes, les chocolatiers et les pâtissiers (in flower shops, chocolate shops and pastry shops). Even fabric designers and home decor shops got into the act. While la Saint Valentin is not as commercial as it is in the U.S.—the French get the same memo for an understated Christmas season as well—it is still festive and a great occasion for beautiful window displays and creative uses of red, pink and “love”.

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Yes, it’s hip to use English for all sorts of “marketing” in France. In my Paris wanderings this Valentine’s season, I saw as much “love” as I did amour. Take a peek, see what you think, and enjoy the rouge, rose et amour French-style…

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Ladurée awash in a parade of pinks…Mesdames et messieurs, get your chocolates and sweets here!

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Fauchon near La Place de la Madeleine beckons with its “Electro-Choc” theme…

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And the shop’s back wall screams real neon pink…

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Switching to red, the coeurs (hearts) are heart-warming at Gérard Mulot…

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Ah, the pink and red Ispahan pastry at Pierre Hermé. Note this delectable sweet is trademarked–no copying allowed!

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I think this fabulous pink and red gâteau from Gosselin was my favorite eye-candy, although these non-edible hanging hearts (below) were stiff competition…

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Pensée du jour (thought for the day): May every day be full of color–and hearts!

A Winter Garden Friday, Jan 8 2010 

Wherever I am in France, I never pass up the chance to visit a garden. Even in winter, I find French landscapes and gardenscapes enchanting and intriguing on many levels.

The Sunday after Christmas, I set out to experience the gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac (Eyrignac Manor) which boasts of le plus beau jardin du Périgord, or the most beautiful garden in Périgord. Located in southwest France, Périgord is the land of truffles, foie gras, walnuts, prehistoric sites, medieval villages, cliff-top castles, and the Dordogne and Lot rivers. Although the privately held manor and its 18th century gardens are located on a back country road, numerous signs point the way to this verdant extravaganza near the picturesque town of Sarlat.

I had the Eyrignac gardens on my agenda as they are reknowned for some of the finest topiary art in Europe. Various shades of green are highlighted throughout the four seasons with the artfully trimmed bushes and trees. It takes a team five full time gardeners to maintain the various ‘outdoor rooms’ on the grounds.

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Not a soul was at the Manoir d’Eyrignac when I arrived. Even the woman selling entrance tickets had to hike over from the business office to open up as she didn’t expect any visitors on this frosty, misty morning. I decided the 9,50 euros to get in was worth it to have the 4 hectare (10 acre) gardens to myself, cold or no cold.

The exquisite Jardin français lies in front of the manor house. It was originally designed to be best seen from the second floor of the dwelling. Since I don’t know the owners and couldn’t see it from the house (!), my view is from the gardens back towards manor. Still, I think this was my favorite ‘room’ of the gardens.

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The gardens are accented by other buildings on the property. The anciennes écuries (former stables) are situated next to the spring fed pond which provided water for the horses once upon a time…

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There is also the romanesque chapel which is still consecrated and where all the family members have been baptized… 

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Another ‘outdoor room’ is the Allée des vases which is named for the Italian ceramic vases that line the grassy “path.” At this time of year, they are wrapped in black plastic to protect them and the plant roots from the cold. The tall evergreens lining the allée give a secret air to this part of the gardens.  

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Next to the Allée des vases is a wide lawn with topiary bushes and fancy arabesques. I wonder if creating these shapes is a bit like painting or embroidering with plants??

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In other parts of the gardens, Asian-inspired elements complement the classical French garden designs. Several red lacquer archways provide eye-catching perspective points in the rose garden…

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And the red lacquer pagoda at the end of this trimmed garden path gives a touch of the exotic to les jardins. But the winter mist has toned down the red this particular morning…

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Even though the weather was a bit nippy and damp, I loved my ‘private visit’ to the jardins d’Eyrignac. I found it hauntingly beautiful on this winter’s day…and I think I will be spoiled when I go back in warm weather and have to share it with other garden lovers. But of course, there is more than enough beauty to go around in this lovely spot in France. Just to be sure to mind the signs to stay off the grass!

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The Jardins du manoir d’Eyrignac are open every day of the year. You can visit the web site for specific hours and directions: www.eyrignac.com.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

For a taste of 18th century French culture and garden aesthetics here in the States, plan to attend the upcoming lecture by professor Eric Haskell on January 13th in Dallas, Texas. Dr. Haskell will speak at SMU’s Meadows Museum of Art on “The Era of Elegance: French Culture in the 18th Century.” The lecture will begin at 6pm followed by a reception at 7pm. Tickets are $60 per person. This event is sponsored by the French Heritage Society’s Dallas Chapter. For reservations, patrons can call 214-363-9568.

A French Christmas Wednesday, Dec 2 2009 

Christmas in France is decidedly uncommercial. To be sure, there are les illuminations de Noël (Christmas lights), shop windows decorated to the tune of the season, garlanding and wreaths, and festive edibles as only the French can do them.

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Holiday lights on the Faubourg St. Honoré in Paris

But holiday decorations in France are understated and tasteful. They also keep to the real calendar season and don’t make an appearance until the beginning of December. Plus (and it’s a big plus in my book), the relentless TV advertising and make-a-buck atmosphere of the holidays in America are nowhere to be found.

If you’ve never visited France or Paris at holiday time, it is a wonderful gift in and of itself. There are far fewer tourists so it’s like experiencing France pour de vrai (for real). The Christmas lights give Paris a special glow. And just like the holidays in the U.S., there is a festive energy that appears at the end of the year.

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Choosing a Christmas tree on the Left Bank in Paris

While I have spent much time in France in December and have celebrated many other important holidays en France, I have not been there on Christmas Day itself. This year, I plan to change that. I will celebrate Noël French style by going to midnight mass and enjoying un grand dîner de réveillon (a gourmet Christmas Eve dinner) in a glorious corner of France. Stay tuned for stories on this one!

In case France in not on your schedule for Christmas this year, here are a few more images and some French holiday words (with approximate pronunciations) to give a taste of the French holidays. Perhaps it might inspire you to give France a whirl at Christmas sometime soon. In the meantime, I send you warm holiday wishes, i.e. Bonnes fêtes!!

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The Christmas market at St. Germain church in Paris Christmas Notre Dame compressed

 The big Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris

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French Christmas cookies!

Joyeux Noël (Merry Christmas) = jwa-yuh no-elle

Le Père Noël (Santa Claus or Father Christmas) = luh pair no-elle

La messe de Noël (Christmas mass) = lah mess duh no-elle

Un sapin de Noël (Christmas tree) = uhn sah-pinh duh no-elle

Une bûche de Noël (Yule log dessert) = oon boosh duh no-elle

Un bonhomme de neige (snowman) = uhn buh nohm duh nehje

Bonne année (Happy New Year) = buh nah-nay