Elizabeth's Blog

Art is top of mind this week. In our advanced French Conversation class, we read a recent article from Le Point magazine on French attitudes toward art and museums. In a February 2010 survey of 1000 French persons 18 years old and older, six Français sur dix ont déclaré visiter un musée au moins une fois par an (six out of ten reported that they visit a museum at least once per year). In addition, the survey noted that museums are where most French go to take in art. Interestingly, les expositions temporaires, les galleries et les foires (temporary exhibitions, art galleries and art fairs) garner less attention.

But some of our group wondered why the French did not go to museums more often with so many temples of great art at their disposal. Class participant Kathy declared in lovely French, “Si j’habitais en France, je visiterais un musée au moins une fois par semaine!” (If I lived in France, I would visit a museum at least once a week!)

This got me thinking about other types of “art” that the French frequent more often in their everyday lives. Take the neighborhood pâtisserie (pastry shop) for instance. The daily expositions (exhibitions) of pastry art in France are breathtaking.  The various arrays of les gâteaux et les tartes (cakes and tarts) are des chefs-d’oeuvre (masterpieces) of color, creativity AND flavor. I would be willing to faire un pari (make a bet) that the average French family enjoys an edible oeuvre d’art (work of art) at least once a week, whether at Sunday lunch with the family or while entertaining à la maison.

To see firsthand the fruits of these creative pastry labors, let’s take an “art walk” through various pâtisseries in Paris and Provence: 

Gosselin in Paris…EACH fresh raspberry has a perfect dot of raspberry glaze.

In Paris, Pierre Hermé’s Ispahan confection blends raspberry, litchi & rose.

 Béchard in Aix-en-Provence is a veritable field of raspberries.

 A cream puff of a cake also at Béchard in Aix.

Béchard even whips up ice cream cakes…Adieu Baskin-Robbins, bonjour Béchard!

In addition to all the regular art, I am fascinated by the mini versions of luscious pastries. What a labor of love to create each one of these little jewels. And their small size means you can taste a variety of flavors all the calories of the regular size. I wish more French pastry shops in the U.S. would include the mini pastries in their repertoire. Ah well, I’ll have to keep going to France for that one.

It is tempting to want to collectionner (collect) these edible art objects and keep them on the shelf, they are so beautiful. But of course, photos will have to do instead—and memories of wonderful tastes.

Next week, we’ll take a behind the scenes tour of a French pastry shop and see the art of pastry-making in action. Until then, add a comment at let us know your favorite type of French edible art!

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

My experience of Art in France is that the French highly value their culture, history and art. Museums—large grand ones like the Louvre or small regional ones, historic monuments, and châteaux are packed on weekends and often during the week. There is even a “French Heritage Days” weekend (Les Journées du Patrimoine) every September where fabulous buildings and properties—both government-owned and private—are open to the public for two days. The lines outside participating establishments are very long but the French consider it worth the wait.

If you are planning to be in France in September, you won’t want to miss this incredible weekend of French Art. While the Journées du Patrimoine web site is not up yet for 2010, you can bookmark it for future reference:  www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr/.

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There are some things a textbook just doesn’t tell you about the French language. In my years as a former French professor and now as a French language and travel specialist, I find that you have to go to the source—France!—to get the real scoop.

Take the word bonjour, for example. When you learn to say bonjour (hello or good day) in French, most books explain what it means and show how it’s used in a simple conversation. That’s a good start. But they don’t mention that when you are in France, you should make your time there what I like to call a ‘bonjour fest.’

What exactly is a ‘bonjour fest’, you might ask?

When you enter a shop or boutique, when it’s your turn at the boulangerie (bakery) or chocolaterie (chocolate shop), when you approach the reception desk at your hotel, when you come into a restaurant, when you get into a taxi, when you reach the ticket counter at a museum, make eye contact with the French and say a nice, clear “Bonjour!” Better still, be sure to add on a crisp “Monsieur” (sir) or “Madame” (ma’am) to your French hello. This practice will go a long way towards positive human relations and a great French travel experience. 

Here’s why bonjour is so important: French culture is relationship oriented (as opposed to the more transactional American culture) so it is essential to acknowledge and respect individuals you meet. Of course, you don’t need to greet people you pass on the street—only those with whom you come into direct contact. And you can leave off the word “Salut!” (hi) as it’s too informal for anyone other than close friends or family.

Another aspect of bonjour which I have never seen in a French language textbook popped up a few years ago in Paris. I went to my neighborhood librairie (bookstore) to buy some books on my French reading list. I greeted the vendeur (salesman) with a nice “Bonjour, Monsieur” as I entered the shop, made and purchased my selections, and said “Au revoir, Monsieur” as I went out the door.

Later that day, however, I realized I had forgotten to buy a highly recommended livre (volume) so headed back to the book shop. As I entered, the salesman recognized me from earlier that day and called out “Rebonjour, Madame!” “Hello again, Madame!” It was a memorable moment. I was charmed to realize that even in a big metropolis like Paris, people remember you and acknowledge it. Ever since, when I run across someone more than once in the same day in Paris or elsewhere in France, I call out “Rebonjour!” and it never fails to put a smile on the receiver’s face. In fact, rebonjour remains my current favorite French word.

To sum up, whether it’s bonjour or rebonjour, say hello liberally when in France—c’est simple comme bonjour (it’s easy as pie)!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

The Parisian pâtisserie (pastry shop) Gérard Mulot makes rebonjour a must as it’s tempting to go there over and over again. Their macarons are some of my favorites including the bite-sized orange-gingembre (orange ginger) with bits of candied ginger or the lusciously fluffy noix de coco (coconut) version.

Gérard Mulot is near the Luxembourg Gardens so you can go there to walk off the calories for a guilt-free indulgence. Or you can get a small box to bring back with you on the plane–miam, miam (yum, yum).

Gérard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
www.gerardmulot.com

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Let’s face it. Traveling in France is très cher (very expensive). Although the euro is falling vis à vis the dollar due to the Greek debt crisis, things cost a lot in the euro zone. Even the French find both life’s necessities (real estate, cars, gas, electricity, milk and dairy products) and luxuries (designer goods, fine wines, gourmet chocolates) to be costly.

So what are some easy ways to faire des économies (save money) in France and still have a fabulous time? Here are a few of my favorites:

1) When dining at restaurants, skip the bottled water and order une carafe d’eau (a carafe of water). If tap water is ok with you–it is completely safe in France—this is the way to go. I once had lunch at a very famous bistrot in Paris, and our table ordered a liter bottle of Evian mineral water. The meal was delicious but I almost choked when the bill arrived and the Evian cost 11 euros, or about $17. The other very French option is to forgo bottled water and just order carafes of the house wine—they are almost always cheaper than mineral water or soft drinks.

2) For an optimum museum experience in Paris, buy the Paris Museum Pass. It costs 32 euros for 2 days, 48 euros for 4 days or 64 euros for 6 days. You can go into as many participating museums and monuments as you wish as many times as you wish—what a bonanza. Especially as most of the best things to see and do in Paris are on their list—the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Musée Rodin, the Arc de Triomphe, Sainte Chapelle. But the BEST thing about the Paris Museum Pass is that you get to bypass all the waiting lines. If you have ever approached the Musée d’Orsay or the Louvre with hoards of people waiting in line ahead of you and despaired of getting in sometime in this century, then despair no more. The Paris Museum Pass saves time as well as money. You can buy it at participating museums in Paris or if you are a planner, you can purchase it prior to leaving the U.S. through RailEurope.

3) Another way to save money on many Paris museums is to visit them the first Sunday of the month. You’ll have the crowds but you won’t pay a dime, or euro, to see world-class art in world-class French art institutions. The Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Picasso Museum, the Musée du Quai Branly and others are all gratuit (free) the first Sunday of every month. There are a few museums in Paris that are always free; my favorite is the stunning Musée Carnavalet in the Marais with its history of Paris. Its gardens and book shop are also two of my preferred cultural stops in la Capitale.

4) To get into Paris from the Charles de Gaulle-Roissy airport, it’s probably easiest to take a taxi directly to your hotel. Depending on the traffic, it costs about 50 to 60 euros one way. But if you want to save some euros, the best and most comfortable way to reach Paris is the RoissyBus. Run by the Paris transport system, it costs 9.10 euros per person and departs the airport every 15 minutes from each terminal (look for the RoissyBus signs in the ground transportation areas). You’ll arrive at the Palais Garnier Opera house in central Paris in about 45 to 60 minutes with views of the city all along the way.

5) Eating at Michelin starred restaurants in Paris always makes a serious dent in the travel pocketbook. To keep euros in your French travel piggy bank, try top restaurants at lunch when their fixed menus are cheaper. But be sure to do your research ahead of time. I once had a gorgeous lunch at a three Michelin starred restaurant in Paris but realized after the fact that lunch there, like dinner, was served à la carte.

6) These days, savvy travelers know the best way to obtain euros while traveling in France is via ATM as travelers checks are nearly outmoded and expensive to exchange. But even seasoned travelers to France may not be aware of the great ATM deal offered by Bank of America. If you withdraw money from your Bank of America account at any of the French bank BNP / Paribas ATM outlets in France, you will not pay any transaction fees or ATM fees. Note that you have to use the BNP / Paribas ATMs, not those of other French banks. The more money you withdraw, the more you will save in excess fees–keeping your money in the bank for more travel to France!

As I wrote this article, it came to me that I could use a piggy bank in the form of an Eiffel Tower to keep at home. I think I would be even more inspired to save both euros and dollars and fill it up. While I have seen Eiffel Tower cookie cutters, t-shirts, chocolates, and other gizmos, I have not found a good tirelire (piggy bank) in her signature shape. Hmmm, something to wish for!

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You never know where a good deed will go.

When I was a teenager, my parents received a call from a local coordinator for student exchange programs. Would they be willing to host a teenager from France? Yes, they said, but as we have four daughters, it would need to be a girl. Of course–bien sûr!

That summer, Karine from Paris came to spend several weeks with our family. We swam in the pool, visited the local mall and made chocolate chip cookies. We had such a good time à l’américaine that she came back the following summer. And then her sister, Stephanie, did a homestay chez les New a couple of years later, and my sister Hillary stayed with their family during her junior year abroad.

Today, Karine remains a dear friend and one of my favorite people to see when I am perched in Paris. She is a charming Parisienne, a mom to two adorable French children and a very talented artist. After attending the Académie Charpentier art school in Paris, she decided to specialize in les portraits au fusain (charcoal portraiture) and has become well known in France and Europe for her artistic abilities.

So what does this have to do with the perfect Parisian souvenir?

When a close friend decided to spend the fall in Paris a couple of years ago as a much-needed sabbatical from corporate life, she called me for all sorts of tips on enjoying Paris to the fullest. We covered the Paris essentials both on and off the beaten path—museums, monuments, gardens and parks, restaurants, unique shops, quiet corners of the city, and more. And then we talked about the perfect memento of her trip—and it came to me…A portrait of her done by Karine!

Laura loved the idea. She met with Karine and learned about her method and approach. As Karine says, “Ma recherche et le combat mené auprès du model pour dévoiler l’ expression du visage la plus vraie, ainsi que le reflet de la personnalité en dehors du temps me mène vers un but primordial: l’ Elégance.” In essence, Karine strives to bring out the most real and lifelike portrait of her subjects and to reflect their personality. In so doing, her ultimate goal is the most elegant representation of her clients…what I would call it the “French touch” of portraiture.

To begin Laura’s portrait, Karine worked from a black and white photo of Laura that she and Laura had chosen together. Then Laura sat briefly for two sessions while Karine finished the portrait with the details only apparent in real life. Finally, the memorable souvenir of her time in Paris was done, and Laura had a wonderful Parisian experience in the process.

To date, Karine has practiced her art in Paris and Europe. This year, she will bring her French artistic talents to the U.S. for the first time on a “portrait tour.” So it will be possible to have that perfect Parisian-style portrait and meet Karine—without the jet lag! I myself will look forward to spending time with my French friend while she is in America—perhaps we’ll even make some chocolate chip cookies again…for old times’ sake.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

Karine is so charming that it’s worth having a portrait done just to meet her. If you are interested in having Karine do a special portrait of your son(s) or daughter(s) or grandchildren or yourself while she is in the U.S., please let us know so we can reserve your family member’s time with her: e.new@frenchaffaires.com or 214-232-5344. For friends of French Affaires, Karine will offer her portraits at a special rate. For more information on Karine and her art, please click here to visit her web site.

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Even French children make the outdoor ‘furniture’ their furniture…

But you have to pay attention to the ubiquitous “Do not walk on the lawns” signs…The French are particular about their grass…

Personally, I would rather see something more creative like “Do Not Walk on the Pyramids” signs. They seem rather walkable, no?

In any case, even if it’s freezing outside, the least amount of sun will bring out scores of park lovers:

Whatever the weather, I like to call Paris’s gardens and parks “outdoor rooms” as they seem to be an extension of home living space…you can even move chairs wherever you see fit…not a bad deal–and no French language required!

And here is a short list of some of my favorite Paris green rooms which are found all over the city:

• Parc Monceau (Right Bank)
• Luxembourg Gardens (Left Bank)
• Tuileries (Right Bank)
• The garden tucked behind Notre Dame Cathedral (Ile de la Cité)
• The garden at the Delacroix Museum (Left Bank)
• The garden at the Rodin Museum (Left Bank)
• The garden at the Carnavalet Museum (Right Bank)

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

The French also like to make their own gardens in window boxes, on balconies, in a small plot behind a house in the country–wherever there is a bit of dirt. Of course, for that you need gardening tools, and the French company Le Prince Jardinier has the crème de la crème of anything you need to maintain your green spaces. Note that this is high-end stuff–you could call it the “Hermès” of the gardening world. 

And speaking of dirt, the French Affaires book pick for April is French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France. We will gather to discuss this wonderful love affair with French gardening on Saturday, April 24th, at North Haven Gardens in Dallas. As part of our festive spring book event, NHG gardening expert and coach, Kay Nelson, will talk to us about growing French herbs here in the U.S. See the details below! (For full information on the French Affaires Book Series, please visit our web site.)

APRIL 2010

French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France by Richard Goodman

“I had a garden in the south of France…” So begins our French book pick for April. Author (and New Yorker) Richard Goodman describes his gardening adventure in a small village near Avignon where he discovers the riches of the earth as well as French friendships in his adopted close-knit community.  Perfect for spring, French Dirt: The Story of a Garden in the South of France will inspire us to consider our own herb or vegetable gardens at home.

We’ll meet for our April book discussion at Dallas’ gardening heaven North Haven Gardens where gardening expert and coach, Kay Nelson, will lead us on a tour of the vegetable garden and herbs offered by NHG. Following her tour and tips for gardening in North Texas, we’ll enjoy wine and savory / sweet gourmet tastes made from French herbs as we discuss this month’s book selection. And we’ll take away a small herb gift as a fragrant souvenir of our gathering. Pre-registration is required; to sign up, please click here or call us 214-232-5344.

Date:  Saturday, April 24, 2010
Time:  4 to 5:30pm
Refreshments:  Herb-inspired savory hors d’oeuvres and sweets and French wine
Location:  North Haven Gardens, 7700 Northhaven Road, Dallas, Texas, 75230

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In keeping with last week’s posting about dessert, it seemed fitting to continue with a variation on the sweet theme…though this time with a decidedly artistic tangent!

Recently, I was dining with friends at one of Paris’ oldest bistrots, La Fontaine de Mars, in the Rue St. Dominique and ended a classically French meal—steak frites—with an equally classic dessert…île flottante, or floating island. If you have never had it, île flottante is a fluffy mound of toasted meringue in a pool of crème anglaise (custard sauce). I like it after a heavier French dinner as it is wonderfully flavorful yet light.

When the evening’s dessert arrived, I was struck by its distinctive shape—it reminded me at once of French haystacks…the ones from Normandy that Monet painted time after time in various lights of day.

I thought about how Monet lovingly depicted the cone top with straight sides in the morning, afternoon and early evening. Having seen an exhibition years ago in France on Monet’s “series paintings” (haystacks, Rouen cathedral, poplars, water lilies), I was transported to peaceful fields adorned with that soft and tender light that bespeaks northern France… 

In preparing for a recent lecture on Normandy for the Dallas Museum of Art, I came across a photo of a French haystack under construction. The photo is part of the publicity for a fascinating collaboration this summer celebrating Impressionism. It’s called Normandie Impressionionniste 2010 and will take place all over Normandy, the home of this artistic movement. More than 160 towns, villages and organizations will host events and exhibitions including painting, contemporary art, music, cinema, theatre, dance, photography, video, literature, lectures, light and sound, and more. If you already have Normandy  in your summer travel plans, you are in for a rich treat…If not, it’s a reason to rush out and buy a ticket to France.

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It’s a good thing Valentine’s Day is in February. I don’t know about you, but I need some couleur (color) during the winter.

In Paris, the days leading up to this year’s la fête des Amoureux (the Holiday of Lovebirds) were a riot of hues chez les fleuristes, les chocolatiers et les pâtissiers (in flower shops, chocolate shops and pastry shops). Even fabric designers and home decor shops got into the act. While la Saint Valentin is not as commercial as it is in the U.S.—the French get the same memo for an understated Christmas season as well—it is still festive and a great occasion for beautiful window displays and creative uses of red, pink and “love”.

Yes, it’s hip to use English for all sorts of “marketing” in France. In my Paris wanderings this Valentine’s season, I saw as much “love” as I did amour. Take a peek, see what you think, and enjoy the rouge, rose et amour French-style…

Ladurée awash in a parade of pinks…Mesdames et messieurs, get your chocolates and sweets here!

Fauchon near La Place de la Madeleine beckons with its “Electro-Choc” theme…

And the shop’s back wall screams real neon pink…

Switching to red, the coeurs (hearts) are heart-warming at Gérard Mulot…

Ah, the pink and red Ispahan pastry at Pierre Hermé. Note this delectable sweet is trademarked–no copying allowed!

I think this fabulous pink and red gâteau from Gosselin was my favorite eye-candy, although these non-edible hanging hearts (below) were stiff competition…

Pensée du jour (thought for the day): May every day be full of color–and hearts!

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It’s been a bit of a winter wonderland in Paris this week. As I landed at Charles de Gaulle airport, also known as Roissy, the surrounding fields were covered with la neige (snow). On the trip from Roissy into Paris, the snow was coming down so fast and thick that normally fearless French drivers slowed down to a crawl. Thankfully, both vehicles and pedestrians could still go about their business, and the léger manteau blanc (light coating of white) made Paris look festive and bright.

A snowy intersection on the Right Bank… 

The Banque de France surrounded by snow-dusted trees…

The Place Furstemberg on the Left Bank…

Footsteps in the snow by the church of St. Germain des Prés

Snow covered lions (above and below) at the entrance of the Jacquemart-André museum on the Boulevard Haussmann

Paris traded its wintry white clouds and snow for sun today. Sunglasses are in order for tomorrow as well, though it’s still pretty chilly. Note to self: keep those hats and gloves handy!

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Christmas in France is decidedly uncommercial. To be sure, there are les illuminations de Noël (Christmas lights), shop windows decorated to the tune of the season, garlanding and wreaths, and festive edibles as only the French can do them.

Holiday lights on the Faubourg St. Honoré in Paris

But holiday decorations in France are understated and tasteful. They also keep to the real calendar season and don’t make an appearance until the beginning of December. Plus (and it’s a big plus in my book), the relentless TV advertising and make-a-buck atmosphere of the holidays in America are nowhere to be found.

If you’ve never visited France or Paris at holiday time, it is a wonderful gift in and of itself. There are far fewer tourists so it’s like experiencing France pour de vrai (for real). The Christmas lights give Paris a special glow. And just like the holidays in the U.S., there is a festive energy that appears at the end of the year.

Choosing a Christmas tree on the Left Bank in Paris

While I have spent much time in France in December and have celebrated many other important holidays en France, I have not been there on Christmas Day itself. This year, I plan to change that. I will celebrate Noël French style by going to midnight mass and enjoying un grand dîner de réveillon (a gourmet Christmas Eve dinner) in a glorious corner of France. Stay tuned for stories on this one!

In case France in not on your schedule for Christmas this year, here are a few more images and some French holiday words (with approximate pronunciations) to give a taste of the French holidays. Perhaps it might inspire you to give France a whirl at Christmas sometime soon. In the meantime, I send you warm holiday wishes, i.e. Bonnes fêtes!!

The Christmas market at St. Germain church in Paris 

 The big Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris

French Christmas cookies!

Joyeux Noël (Merry Christmas) = jwa-yuh no-elle

Le Père Noël (Santa Claus or Father Christmas) = luh pair no-elle

La messe de Noël (Christmas mass) = lah mess duh no-elle

Un sapin de Noël (Christmas tree) = uhn sah-pinh duh no-elle

Une bûche de Noël (Yule log dessert) = oon boosh duh no-elle

Un bonhomme de neige (snowman) = uhn buh nohm duh nehje

Bonne année (Happy New Year) = buh nah-nay

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When our French Affaires travel group boarded the plane in Dallas a couple of weeks ago en route to Paris and Provence, we saw local fashion directors and buyers dressed to the nines. We quickly realized they were on their way to la Fashion Week in la Capitale (Paris). Leather riding-type boots worn on top of skinny pants or jeans was the fashion ensemble du jour.

We didn’t think much more about Paris Fashion Week 2009 until a Sunday post-lunch stroll along the Champs-Elysées. We had been admiring the beautiful gardens along the grand boulevard when we came across larger than life covers of French Vogue magazine lining both sides of the trottoir (sidewalk). Suddenly we were immersed in the best of French fashion–without wrangling for a single ticket to this year’s fashion shows.

It turned out we had discovered a short-term outdoor exhibition called “Vogue Covers” designed to relive 90 years of women’s history as seen by this ‘Bible’ of fashion. Running from October 1 to November 1, the show includes covers from 1920 to the present representing the best models, fashion designers, photographers, artists and illustrators. Of course, French actress and model Catherine Deneuve makes multiple appearances.

Paris is always full of wonderful surprises, and this is one of the best I’ve come across lately. There are still a few more days to see “Vogue Covers” in person. Or you can get a feel for it in the visual tour below. Vive la mode à la française (long live fashion French style)!

Translation: The French edition of Vogue was first published in 1920 and has never missed an issue except during the Occupation when the magazine refused to work under German supervision. Nearly 90 years of publication, represented here by some of the most striking covers, express certain sides of French history—its taste, its fashion and aesthetic trends—but also illustrate the magazine’s constant focus on quality.   

 French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

To get French fashion direct chez vous, you can subscribe to the Paris edition of Vogue magazine and other France-based publications via Express Mag. Express Mag handles U.S. subscriptions for a variety of international publications, including the French versions of Vogue and Elle. Click here to get French Vogue without ever having to leave home. 

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