Elizabeth's Blog

If you love Paris but don’t live there, have you ever just wanted to take it home with you? Bundle the whole thing up, put it in your suitcase and pull it out when you need a ‘Paris fix’? What if you could “buy Paris”?

I like to believe that anything is possible when it comes to France so it got me thinking about various ways to purchase the French capital. Of course, one can always buy an apartment there but that is a WHOLE other project. There are more reasonable items whose style just shouts Paris such as a beautiful scarf from Pétrusse or a gorgeous art book from the Louvre or a luscious box of almond macarons from Ladurée or Pierre Hermé. Then there are small trinkets you can pick up around town that say Paris—literally.

 Les cartes postales (postcards)…

Les caleçons (boxers)…

The Eiffel Tower seems to be the quintessential visual image of Paris and for good reason. So a small version for your desk or even a porte-clés (key ring) might be nice. Then you can drive around with Paris in your car.

You can also buy an artist’s view of the city. This vendor regularly offers her wares along the Rue de Rivoli on the Right Bank. She is on board with the Tour Eiffel motif for sure.

I think chocolate versions of Paris are nice—only they don’t last as long. Miam (yum, in French)! Chapon and Debauve & Gallais on the Left Bank each have their versions. 

Or maybe a bread version of the Eiffel Tower is more your speed.

There is always the light-up version of the Eiffel Tower. Our Paris trip group picked up a few of these last week. Perfect for holiday decorating.

But they have a hard time competing with the real thing at night, n’est-ce pas?

Don’t forget the French folks at the Paris airport duty free venues. They are the ones who have elevated buying Paris to an art form. If you need some cognac in an Eiffel Tower glass bottle, they’ve got it.

Or I like this current holiday offering of chocolates in an glass Eiffel Tower keepsake complete with Santa hat on top. Maybe one year at Christmastime, the City of Paris should put a faux Santa hat on top of the real Eiffel Tower. Can’t you picture that? But I’m thinking that wouldn’t mesh with the ‘sophisticated Paris’ image near and dear to its residents. Tant pis (too bad)!

So with all these ideas in mind–and with a budget of 100 euros (as long as the euro currency lasts!), what would YOU do to “buy Paris”? Send in your thoughts in the comment section of this post. There is no end to creativity when it comes to putting Paris on sale or to buying it.

French Take-Out – La France à emporter

If all this Paris paraphernalia makes you want to rush out and buy something, you can find some kitschy Paris items at Target.com under “Eiffel”. Eiffel Tower centerpieces, posters, wall clocks, pendants—it’s almost like being at a souvenir stand in Paris. Almost.

Just know, though, that if you do a search on their web site for “Paris,” you’ll mostly get items for “Paris Hilton.” Hélas (alas), signs of the times. Bon Paris shopping!

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There is plenty to love about ‘expected Paris’ - numerous world-class museums, beautiful squares, exquisite palaces, Notre Dame cathedral, majestic parks and gardens, grand boulevards, boat rides on the Seine, outdoor markets, music, theatre, restaurants of every flavor, the list goes on. Guidebooks are full of what makes the French capital the most visited city in the world.

But what about the Paris that pops up when you least expect it? The things that no guidebook can capture? This is the Paris that merits keeping your eyes open–and expecting the unexpected. Part of the fun is that you never know what you’ll get. For instance, I came upon this top-notch jazz player entertaining the crowds on a weekend walk from the Right Bank to the Left Bank… 

Another weekend, this Parisian massage school was giving away free neck rubs to passersby in the shadow of Notre Dame…

Or what about the sudden dusting of snow that turns into Paris into a winter fairyland?

There is also the unexpected presence of ‘love-locks’ on many bridges across the Seine, fulfilling Paris’s image as the city of love. (If you haven’t come across this phenomenon, amorous couples attach small padlocks to these public edifices as a token of their love. Every so often, the city comes along during the night and clips them off…and then they just start coming back again!)

I think my favorite unexpected Paris moment of recent memory happened during fashion week a couple of years ago. I was crossing the Champs-Elysées  and came upon a big buzz of people intent on something. What I found was that Paris Vogue magazine had mounted a retrospective of 80 of its best covers along the sidewalks of the Champs-Elysées to celebrate its nearly 90 years of French fashion and style.

It was amazing to wander amongst decades of French style moments captured so intensely on these magazine covers. And then to watch people interacting with this sidewalk art was pretty incredible too.

This unexpected Paris experience lasted a month and was the must-see event of the fall. (For more on this open-air fashion extravaganza, click here.) If you missed seeing it in person, check out the gorgeous coffee-table book Paris Vogue Covers: 1920-2009 which came out last year and was inspired by the exhibition.

If you are in Paris this fall and happen to wander by the northeast side of the Luxembourg gardens (i.e. near the Pantheon), then you will be treated to another wonderful ‘unexpected Paris’ moment. The French Senate who govens from the Luxembourg palace in the gardens – what a great work environment, n’est-ce pas? – is sponsoring a fabulous photography exhibition of nature images from France and its overseas territories.

Entitled “Coeurs de Nature en France,” the show consists of 80 extra large images of French natural wonders posted on the iron fences of the gardens. Image exhibitions on the Luxembourg garden fences have been going on for several years now. Organizers discovered that the well-trafficked sidewalks of this Left Bank locale were an art space par excellence. And in-the-know Parisians pride themselves on keeping track of the latest Luxembourg gardens show topic.

This current exhibition is free and runs until January 15, 2012. Be sure to see it if you are in Paris this fall or winter. You can also stop by any Paris newspaper kiosque to pick up the commemorative edition of Terre sauvage magazine featuring the “Coeurs de nature en France” exhibition. 

NOTE:  These outdoor Luxembourg garden exhibitions are separate from the Musée du Luxembourg art exhibitions. The Luxembourg Museum is a small, jewelbox art institution housed in a wing of the Luxembourg palace. The upcoming exhibition “Cézanne et Paris” opens October 12 and runs through February 26, 2012.

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French cafés are not just a place, they’re a way of life. You can drink, eat, converse, read, watch the world go by, even make it your home away from home. For the price of a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, your café table and the accompanying cultural panorama belong to you for as long as you like. What a way to “own” some French real estate!

But like so many aspects of French culture, it really helps to know some insider tips and info to enjoy your French café time to the fullest. Here are my top 10 recommendations for cracking the French café code. Read on, and make plans to head straight for a café next time you are in France…

1) Which café? Wherever you are in France—in a small country village or in bustling Paris—be sure to choose a café with the most French people (i.e. avoid anybody wearing fanny packs, cameras, and tennis shoes). You want to feel like you’re in France, not in a Starbucks at home.

2) Where to sit? Hands down, if it’s a nice day, sit outside on the terrace. It’s great for people watching, and weather in France is generally lovely. There’s often some street entertainment going on such as the accordionist below. These days, even winter café going can be a pleasure as many cafés have electric heaters overhead to keep things warm and toasty. On the other hand, if you’re on a strict budget, sitting inside is always a good option since menu items cost more on the terrace than inside the café. On that note, if you’re going in for a drink, standing at the bar costs less than sitting at a table. Ditto in Italy.

3) Engaging with the waitstaff: To ensure good relations with the wait staff, always greet your (usually male) waiter with a nice “Bonjour, Monsieur!” And attempt your best French. He’ll be more attentive to you if you try. And whatever you do, don’t call him over with a loud “Garçon!” It’s very fifties…and also rude.

4) Ordering coffee: Coffee is a French café staple. You can order un express (an expresso), un crème (how the French order coffee with hot milk these days), un café américain (black coffee but not as strong as expresso—more like drip coffee) or perhaps un thé (tea). My morning beverage in France is un grand crème, or an extra large coffee with milk. Note that the French do not have milk in their coffee later in the day or at night—it’s strictly expresso for them following lunch or dinner.

5) What about other drinks? There are a variety of other beverages on offer at French cafés besides le café (coffee). Of the non-alcoholic variety, you can order un citron pressé (fresh-squeezed lemonade where you add sugar and water to taste), les jus de fruits (fruit juices), un Orangina (sparkling orange soda made in France), un coca / coca light (Coke and Diet Coke) and les eaux minérales such as Vittel or Evian (flat mineral waters) and Badoit or San Pellegrino (sparkling mineral waters). It is helpful to remember that Coke can cost more than the house wine in France. Also, hip French people these days forego all the wonderful French mineral waters in favor of San Pellegrino. Go figure?!

If it’s apéritif time, there are a variety of bières (beers) available. Draft is une pression or un demi (half pint). And then of course, there’s wine—un vin rouge, un vin blanc (a glass of red or white wine) or un rosé (glass of rosé wine). In summer in France, I drink almost nothing but chilled rosé as it is the perfect summer drink. If you are celebrating something, or even if you’re not, a nice coupe de champagne (glass of champagne) is never wrong in France. Finally, you can order hard liquor, brandy (France has amazing ones, bien sûr), or something like pastis, the licorice flavored liqueur typical of southern France.

6) What about café food? Food is almost always very good in France, even in cafés. The menu du jour (day’s set menu) allows you to have a nice meal—often a starter, main dish and dessert—for a reasonable price. Another option is to ask the waiter what he prefers on la carte (the paper menu). He’ll be flattered you asked his advice, and often times will go above and beyond to make sure the plate he brings to the table is excellent!

Or you can order quintessential French dishes such as quiche lorraine or un croque monsieur (open faced hot ham and cheese sandwich) or steak tartare served with a green salad. While most cafés won’t win gourmet food awards, you’ll get a good, honest meal and experience a slice of French daily life at the same time.

7) How to get the check? In French cafés and restaurants, you must always ask for your check, or l’addition. Make eye contact with your waiter and call him over with “Monsieur.” Then you can say, “L’addition, s’il vous plaît.”

8) What about tipping? Tipping in France is often confusing for Americans. French tipping is included in the price of food and drink; menus will say somewhere service compris to indicate this. So leaving another 15 to 20% can come off as an insult—the waiter might think you see him as a charity case. However, I have seen waitstaff in Europe who take advantage of the fact that foreigners are not aware tips are already included and relish or even encourage the additional tip windfall. In French cafés, the right protocol is to pay your check with cash or a credit card and then leave a euro or two extra in cash as a gesture of good will.

You can also leave a cute note to your waiter. I once took some college girls on a February trip to Paris, and they thought our young waiter at Les Deux Magots was handsome enough to merit a quick thank-you note in English with a nice “Happy Valentine’s Day” in French. We left the café before he came back by our table—I wished I could have seen the look on his face when he read it!

9) Toilettes: You can use the facilities in a café if you are a paying customer. Note that café restrooms are often in the basement so look for a small stairway going downstairs.

10) Good Paris cafés: Next time you are in Paris, drop by the Left Bank café icons Les Deux Magots and the Café de Flore. They’re pricier than some but the people-watching is divine. While there will be tourists, enough French people fill the tables to make these cafés endlessly interesting. A little more off the Left Bank beaten path is La Palette on the Rue de Seine. Very French and what most cafés used to feel like.

If you have a great café anecdote to share, let other French Affaires readers in on your experience by posting it here. We love to hear about any and all French cultural adventures!

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The air is crisp and cool. The sky is clear. The tourists are long gone. Transatlantic airfares are super low. And Paris is dressed up in her holiday best.

Christmas-time is a feast for the senses everywhere in France but especially in Paris. The whole city sparkles with dazzling Christmas lights, fabulous window displays, marvelous gifts, endless champagne, to-die-for gourmet seasonal cuisine, and festive happenings. This year’s French Affaires Fall Trip celebrates the best of the Paris holiday season with all of this and more for a truly insider stay in the City of Light.

Our Paris journey begins just after Thanksgiving on Tuesday, November 29, and wraps up Monday, December 5, to get everyone back to their families and friends in plenty of time to enjoy the holidays at home. If you’ve never “done Paris” at this time of year, then treat yourself to a unique cultural experience and a fabulous vacation too!

“Paris at the Holidays” Itinerary

Join French specialist Dr. Elizabeth New Seitz and other French Affaires patrons for this exclusive holiday excursion to Paris! This festive & unforgettable journey to the French capital will include everything that sparkles in Paris—Christmas lights, holiday markets, gourmet Parisian dining, champagne, art, culture,  jewels, gift shopping, & more. We’ll also get a personal Parisian touch with private events such as our own holiday cooking class with Susan Herrmann of “On Rue Tatin” French Cooking School, Insider tours & events with Paris friends of French Affaires, a Champagne Tasting class, & our special holiday dinner at an exquisite museum in the Marais. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg!  A once-in-a-lifetime immersion into the French holiday spirit. Trip cost covers everything except airfare & two meals. For a customized & superlative French travel experience, our trip is limited to 8 participants.

TUESDAY, NOV 29 – Depart U.S. for Paris!

WEDNESDAY, NOV 30 – PARIS HOLIDAY SHOP WINDOWS TOUR, CHAMPAGNE RECEPTION & WELCOME DINNER

We’ll arrive in Paris Wednesday morning where pre-arranged transport will take us to our hotel, the charming & gracious Hôtel Duc de St. Simon on the Left Bank. Then, we’ll lunch at the celebrated tea salon Ladurée on the Left Bank in its lovely chinoiserie-styled dining room. We’ll be sure to taste Ladurée’s famous almond macarons. That afternoon, we’ll take a walking tour of gorgeous French shop windows dressed up for the holidays & also browse the annual Christmas market along the Champs-Elysées. In the evening, we’ll celebrate our arrival with champagne in our hotel’s wine cellar followed by a delicious dinner at an authentic Parisian bistrot.

Holiday lights & shop windows along Paris’s Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré

THURSDAY, DEC 1 – SPARKLING PARIS—JEWELS, ART, CHRISTMAS LIGHTS

Today in Paris includes everything that sparkles. In the morning, we’ll be treated to private viewings of well-known Place Vendôme jewelers, including a private jewel workshop & jewelry museum. For lunch, we’ll stop at the casually elegant Le Soufflé & try the best savory & sweet soufflés in the universe. Then, we’ll take in a current art exhibition at a prominent Paris museum. That evening, we’ll be treated to a private dinner & guided tour at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in its stunning 17th century mansion in the Marais. Our magical day ends with a car tour of Christmas lights in Paris at night!

FRIDAY, DEC 2 – HOLIDAY COOKING CLASS WITH SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS OF ON RUE TATIN COOKING SCHOOL

Celebrated cookbook author & chef Susan Herrmann Loomis of “On Rue Tatin” Cooking School will take us on a special open-air, food market tour where we’ll buy seasonal ingredients for our multi-course holiday lunch. Then we’ll head to a private Paris Left Bank cooking studio where Susan will lead us through a hands-on cooking class of quintessential French dishes that are wonderful to make at Christmastime. Finally we’ll sit down & enjoy our culinary creations paired with French wine. Late afternoon free for shopping or sightseeing. Dinner & night out on your own.

SATURDAY, DEC 3 – GOURMET FOOD SHOPS TOUR & GOURMET HOLIDAY DINNER

This morning, we’ll tour some of the best chocolate, pastry & specialty food shops in Paris with the opportunity to purchase Christmas gifts along the way. We’ll lunch at a casual Parisian café amongst the locals. That afternoon, there will be ample free time to shop for gifts–be sure to bring an extra bag for your shopping treasures! Or you can go ice skating in front of Paris’s town hall in the center of the city! In the evening, we’ll dress up for our gourmet holiday dinner at a celebrated two-Michelin starred gastronomic restaurant & enjoy breathtaking holiday dishes paired with French wines.

Shop windows & holiday lights at Paris’s grand department store Galeries Lafayette

Ice skating French-style in front of Paris’s town hall

SUNDAY, DEC 4 – NOTRE DAME CHRISTMAS TREE & PRIVATE CHAMPAGNE CLASS

This morning, you can sleep in & enjoy brunch/lunch on your own or sightsee as you wish. We’ll meet in the early afternoon to visit Notre Dame Cathedral with its spectacular 50-foot Christmas tree & French nativity scene. After a brief stroll of the islands, we’ll head to Paris’s best Champagne bar for a Champagne class & tasting since Champagne is THE French drink for the holidays. That evening we’ll have our final celebration dinner at a charming French restaurant & be treated to a wonderful discussion of French etiquette & holiday table traditions by Marie de Tilly, the renowned French manners expert. Walk back to our hotel along the Seine for beautiful views of Paris at night.

Annual Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame Cathedral

MONDAY, DEC 5 – Return to the U.S.

For those interested, we will pick up your custom order of Poilâne breads & holiday cookies to take home for wonderful holiday entertaining. Pre-arranged transport to Charles de Gaulle airport for travel back to the U.S.

Poilane’s famous Christmas cookies!

Trip Registration & Cost:   For the “Paris at the Holidays” full description & registration form, please email us at info.french@frenchaffaires.com . The trip cost is $4450 per person double occupancy & includes hotel, most meals, cultural excursions & events, tips, transport in Paris & trip guiding (airfare & one lunch / one dinner not included). Single supplement additional. Please call us with any questions at 214-232-5344 . There are a few spots remaining so make plans to enrich your travel experience AND your 2011 holiday season!

Happy Holidays!!

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To celebrate the arrival of this year’s warm weather, the French newspaper Le Figaro just published the results of its “Test des Meilleures Tartes aux Fraises” (the best Strawberry Tart competition) in Paris. Why strawberry tarts one might ask? Well, the paper hailed the return of individual strawberry tarts in pastry shop windows as ‘one of spring’s greatest pleasures’ in France. And too, for many French, the tarts’ visual presence after their long winter absence marks two of the great things in life–beautiful summer weather as well as cherished outdoor meals with family.

Whether enjoying their own homemade strawberry tarts or ones created in a pastry shop, the French are picky about what makes a good tarte aux fraises (pronounced ‘tart oh frehz’ in English). But it’s difficult to know today what qualifies as “best” since no there’s no set formula for making a French strawberry tartelette.

For a long time, the typical individual strawberry tart available in French pastry shops was round in shape and about three inches in diameter. The base of shortbread pastry was covered with vanilla cream and topped with whole strawberries, arranged like a small mountain. To show the strawberries to their best advantage, they would be brushed with a light berry glaze. You can still find these traditional tarts at many pastry shops in France:

But in the spirit of creativity, many pastry artisans today have come up with their own strawberry tart model, whether round, triangular or square. The “filling” varies as well and strawberries no longer have to whole but are often cut into halves or even quarters for their tart’s particular artistic presentation.

So Le Figaro’s informal tasting team had a challenging task on its hands as it tried to determine this year’s best strawberry tart. But they managed to ‘test the tarts,’  judging them in a blind tasting on four categories: 1) Overall presentation, 2) quality of the strawberries, 3) balance amongst the pastry, cream and fruit, and 4) comparison of the quality to the price. As of last week, their results are in:

First place – Gérard Mulot in the 6th arrondissement
Second place – Jacques Génin in the 3rd arrondissement
Third place – Dalloyau in the 8th arrondissement
Fourth place – Ladurée in the 8th arrondissement

Sweets guru Gérard Mulot took the top prize for his square-shaped tart that the judges felt met all the criteria (see the Figaro newspaper photo above). As they affirmed, his tart was “very appetizing and well-endowed with flavorful strawberries.” For the complete article in French, please click here.

It must be noted that not all the well-known Paris pastry shops participated in the contest. Some of them, including the legendary Pierre Hermé, decided to offer individual strawberry tarts at the end of May when all strawberries are in ‘full bloom.’ Others, like Fauchon, decided to make May a strawberry marketing blowout with their “Create-Your-Own-Tart” event. Forget made-to-measure clothes–you can design your own strawberry tart! Make a beeline to Fauchon Place de la Madeleine on Fridays and Saturdays in May for your own customized red fruit extravaganza. Here’s how it works:

1) Choose your favorite strawberry – Only in France would you be offered your choice of nine strawberry varieties: Ciflorette, Naïade, Gariguette, Darselect, Mara des Bois, Manille, Anablanca, Capella pleine terre, Gariguette de Plougastel.

2) Select your preferred pastry base – shortbread crust, sweet pastry crust or butter crust.

3) Will it be vanilla pastry cream or chantilly (whipped cream) for your tart?

4) Watch as the pastry chef artistically arranges your strawberries on top of your personalized strawberry tart!

This sounds kind of fun–but also a little over the top in my opinion. Perhaps it’s better to pick up your high-season strawberry tart from Le Figaro’s award winner, Gérard Mulot. You can swing by one of the Mulot shops around town (my favorite is his headquarters on the Rue de Seine near the Luxembourg Gardens) and taste his award-winning tarte aux fraises. And let yourself be tempted by all the other beautiful–and delectable–offerings including his very special almond macarons… 

Gérard Mulot
Magasin Saint Germain
76, rue de seine
75006 Paris

Magasin Glacière
93, rue de la glacière
75013 Paris

Magasin du Marais
6, rue du Pas de la Mule
75003 Paris

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

In Julia Child’s The French Chef Cookbook which chronicles recipes from her highly acclaimed television cooking series*, Child offers a classic French Strawberry Tart recipe (pp.225-228) for American chefs. As she notes, “Big or little, round or rectangular, fresh strawberry tarts are a feast for the eye as well as the tongue.” While she doesn’t dwell on the seasonality and perfect state of strawberries like the French, she probably takes that as a given after her decades of living and cooking in France.

Try making your own strawberry tart—and write a comment here about your cooking experience. Better yet, send me a photo of your homemade tart, and I will post it. Or let us know which pastry shops near you in the U.S. make a great strawberry tart, and I will list them here. That way, French Affaires’ readers can go pick up a few and conduct their own informal “test des meilleures tartes aux fraises”!

*  The next French Cookbook Club event in June features The French Chef Cookbook. There are a few spots left for our June 23 evening where we’ll discuss and cook our way through this intriguing culinary volume. What makes this cookbook selection so interesting is that you can also pick up the DVD version and watch the episodes of Julia Child preparing both classic and more adventurous recipes. What a treat!

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Going to France at any time during the year is rich enough. However, planning your stay around certain annual special events can be terrifically rewarding. To help you decide on when to visiter la belle France, here is a compendium of events and activities in Paris and elsewhere in France that are particularly memorable:

January
La Fête des Rois – Close on the heels of Christmas comes the la fête des rois (Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings Day), commemorating the arrival of the three kings to see the baby Jesus. You know the Feast of the Epiphany is nigh in France when the galettes des rois (king’s cakes) take over many pâtisseries (pastry shops) in France for the month. So if you are in France in January, be sure to try this delicious dessert—and you might become queen or king for the day! (Click here for how this works.)

Les Soldes d’hiver  – Shop sales, or soldes, are closely regulated in France and happen twice a year – in winter and in summer. Discounts can be significant at everything from high-end luxury shops such as Louis Vuitton to department stores to small boutiques. The French mark their calendars for this event and line up with gusto to take advantage of the great prices. The French winter sales start around the third week in January and run through mid-February. Summer sales run from the end of June through mid-July.

February
La Saint Valentin – Valentines’ Day in France is not as commercial as in the U.S….but it’s getting there. If you in Paris for February 14, you will have a gorgeous array of chocolates, cakes, tarts and flowers to choose from when celebrating your loved one. Click here for a visual Valentine ‘tour de Paris’…

Carnaval de Nice – There are many Mardi Gras carnaval celebrations all over the world but the one in Nice is particularly noteworthy. The festivities last for two weeks and draw over a million visitors to this southern French city. Parades, cultural activities, sporting events, fairs and more mark this famous French winter event. www.nicecarnaval.com

April
Paris Marathon – For the sportive / sportif (athletic) among us, a great way to see Paris is by running the Paris marathon. It takes place in mid-April and draws more and more runners each year. You can start training now for the next one which takes place on April 15, 2012!  www.parismarathon.com

May
May Day – May 1 is a national holiday in France so most things are closed on this day. But it is also May Day and French people celebrate by giving each other un joli petit brin de muguet (a beautiful small bouquet of lily of the valley flowers). It is a charming moment to experience in France if you happen to be there. Just look for a street vendor selling the wonderful-smelling flowers to purchase some for yourself or a loved one.

Nuit des musées – “Museum Night” in France has become a big hit with all sorts of cultural institutions staying open into the evening and putting on interesting programs, lectures and concerts. This year’s Museum Night is tomorrow, May 14. During the evening, you can take in some of the current temporary exhibits going on – click here for the French Affaires’ recent museum posting on this – or try something not on the article’s list such as fashion mogul Ralph Lauren’s classic cars on view at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (in part of the Louvre building). You can browse tomorrow evening’s offerings at a variety of Paris museums by clicking here.

Cannes film festival – If you are into cinema, then you’ll want to check out the Cannes Film Festival that runs from mid to late May every year. Woody Allen just kicked off this year’s festival with his film ode to Paris, Midnight in Paris. He even managed to get a cameo appearance from France’s first lady, Carla Bruni Sarkozy. And as you dine at restaurants in and around the Cannes area while the Festival is going on, you will see movie stars and film directors from around the world so be sure and bring your autograph book! www.festival-cannes.com

Roland Garros – The French Open Tennis Tournament, known as Roland Garros for the sports complex where it’s hosted on the western side of Paris, runs from mid-May to early June each year. Tickets can be purchased online or through agents. If you go, don’t miss the tennis museum on the grounds which chronicles the history of the sport. Click here for more info on the tennis museum.  www.rolandgarros.com

June
Fête de la musique – Of all the annual special events in France, this is definitely one to work your France trip around. Of course, it’s during prime travel season which makes it easier—but it’s also one of the most fun and accessible to anyone, native French people and visitors alike. The Music Festival takes place each year on the evening of June 21 and marks the summer solstice, ie the longest light day of the year. Thousands of musical events and concerts are held all over France—and are free. From rock concerts in the Place de la Bastille in Paris, to chamber music quartets in courtyards, to Edith Piaf sound-alikes on streetcorners, there is something musical for everyone. The French Fête de la Musique has been such a success over the past 30 years that it now has spread all over the world. www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr/

July-August
Festival d’Aix en Provence – Another musical extravaganza worth noting is the Music Festival of Aix-en-Provence held each year from late June through July. Tickets are expensive and hard to come by since this event rivals the famous annual music festival in Salzburg, Austria. But attending is worth every penny and the effort to get there for these world-class performances of opera, symphony, chamber music and more.  www.festival-aix.com

Bastille day – July 14 marks la Fête Nationale in France, or the French equivalent of July 4th in the U.S. Also known as le quatorze juillet, this national holiday in Paris is marked by parades along the Champs-Elysées including fly-overs by French fighter jets and by fireworks displays above the Eiffel Tower.

Jazz à Juan-les-pins – One of the most famous jazz festivals in the world takes place every July at Juan-les-pins near Cannes on the French Riviera. What could be better than listening to B.B. King at this wonderful French beachside town? Click here for this year’s Jazz à Juan program.

Tour de France Bike Race – This legendary bike race zooms all over France and ends in Paris on the Champs-Elysées every year. Take in a view of the bikers on one the étapes around France or wait for the grand finish in Paris. It is a French event not to be missed. www.letour.fr/

Paris plages – The “Paris Beaches” celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Designed to bring a vacation motif to Parisians who don’t have the time or means to go the beach, the city brings in truckloads of sand and palm trees to create a beach setting along the Seine in the heart of Paris. The Paris Plages event lasts for a month from the end of July to the end of August. Bring your beach towel and suntan lotion for a true Paris tan!  www.paris-plages.fr/

September
Les Journées du Patrimoine – This is one of my favorite annual events in France. For two days in mid-September, “French Heritage Days” offers visitors the opportunity to take tours of all sorts of fabulous palaces, buildings and châteaux that are not normally open to the public. The Luxembourg palace in the Luxembourg gardens in Paris is just one example. This year’s Journées du Patrimoine fall on Saturday and Sunday, September 17 and 18, so mark your calendars now for this extra-special and ultra-French event. www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr

November
Armistice day – November 11 marks Armistice Day from World War I and a national holiday in France. If you’ve never seen a military parade on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, then be sure and see this one sometime in your France travels.

December
Noël en France – Ah, Christmastime in France…Late November and the beginning of December mark the start of the magical French Christmas season. Holiday lights glow all over Paris on the grand boulevards and in side streets, the French department stores are dressed to the nines with their holiday lights and window displays, and the Christmas markets along the Champs-Elysées and by area churches sell holiday gifts and mulled wine to shoppers. And seeing the 50-foot Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame cathedral is a travel must.

If you want to get to Paris to see the festive sights and do some Christmas shopping this year, consider joining the French Affaires’ “Paris at the Holidays 2011” trip. It’s scheduled for just after Thanksgiving and will showcase Paris at its sparkling, holiday best. Of course, French food and wine at the holidays are amazing so will be a big feature of our holiday time in Paris. The trip is starting to fill up so click here for the Paris holiday trip itinerary and make plans to put Paris in your Christmas holiday season!  “Joyeux Noël” (Merry Christmas) and “Joyeuses fêtes” (Happy Holidays)!!

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In the spirit of the summer travel season, I thought I’d do another posting on getting the best out of Paris. Many of you wrote in that last week’s article on current art exhibitions in Paris was very helpful–and timely.

This week’s article is about Pariscope–the insider’s guide to everything going on in Paris every week. I originally published this piece as “The Best Bargain in Paris” in June of 2008. Since then, I still think the subject is the best deal in the city, but I also now call it  the best guidebook to Paris as well. With so much to see and do in this most visited world capital, it’s possible one could miss out on something really special during one’s Paris visit. Picking up a copy of Pariscope can help ensure that you are up to speed on everything interesting going on in Paris while you are there.

Pariscope for the week of May 4-10, 2011

So enjoy this updated piece on the Paris insider’s guide and take it to heart when you are next in the most beautiful city in the world:

The Best Guide to Paris / The Best Bargain in Paris

It is a given these days that a stay in any world metropolis is going to cost you, especially in Europe. With the euro near record highs, une tasse de café (a cup of coffee) at a major café in Paris such as Les Deux Magots or the Café de Flore on the Left Bank will set you back the equivalent of a good six or seven dollars.* Ouch. Or as the French say, “Aïe!”

With that sobering benchmark in mind, a bargain in Paris sounds like an oxymoron at best. But you don’t have to look far to find a great deal in the City of Light–you can buy it at any newsstand or kiosque. It’s called Pariscope.

A small, newsprint magazine of more than 200 pages, Pariscope comes out each Wednesday of the year and costs less than a euro. To be exact, it is only .40€. That’s about 60¢ in U.S. money. “Pariscope” is a play on the French word ‘périscope’ or ‘periscope’ in English–from the device aboard a submarine allowing you to see everything outside the ship.

So what’s inside that allows you to ’see everything in Paris’? Pariscope is THE guide to what’s happening each week in la Capitale. Current art exhibitions, museums, galleries, new films (movies open on Wednesdays in France compared to Friday openings in the U.S.), theatre, music, opera, dance, festivals, antique fairs, walking tours, sports. You name the activity, it’s in there.

While the low price and rich content are the good news (and it’s super lightweight, making it very easy to carry around during your Paris wanderings), the “not-so-good” news for non-French speakers is that it’s all in French. However, with a few contextual clues and the glossary below or perhaps the help of your hotel concierge, you can pull together the ideal Paris itinerary from this insider’s guide. The most interesting offerings can be found in the following sections of Pariscope:

Ma ville
This short entry spotlights a particular area of the city or weekly topic. For example, one Pariscope I picked up last year focused on “Paris for antique lovers.” Another, “Paris, homeland of artists,” described small museums that used to be homes of famous writers and artists such as Victor Hugo and Eugène Delacroix. In February of this year, the Ma Ville section of four to five pages was a “Passport to China” and captured events in Paris related to the Chinese New Year. At a glance, you discover a major happening or theme in Paris for the week.

Musique
If you are a lover of music in any form, this section is for you. Classical music, opera, ballet, jazz, and rock events are listed here. Concerts are organized by type of music and day of the week. Saturdays and Sundays are particularly interesting in the classical section as there are often free concerts in area churches over the weekend (you’ll know a concert is free if it includes entrée libre in the description). At the other end of the spectrum, i.e. paying concerts, you have some of the greatest musical talent in the world performing in Paris. I will never forget a chamber music concert I attended at the jewelbox Théâtre du Châtelet in the heart of Paris some years ago.* Violinist Itzhak Perlman, pianist Vladimir Ashkenazy and cellist Lyn Harrell were playing the works of Brahms among others. The evening was pure magic. Musicians, instruments, audience and venue came together in an extra-extra-ordinary way, and you could have heard a pin drop throughout the performance. As proof of the divine musical gift that night, there were five standing ovations at the end. Bravo!

Arts
Museums are top of my Paris to-do list. The Arts section includes information on all the museums and art galleries in Paris. The Arts rubric also spells out the current exhibitions on view at museums and galleries across the city. It’s nearly an embarras du choix (an embarassment of riches–ie, too great a choice). You can check what is on view at Le Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Musée Rodin and other well-known museums. Many lesser-known museums are included such as the Musée de la Poupée (Doll Museum), Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Nature & Hunting Museum) and the Musée de la Légion d’Honneur (Legion of Honor Museum). Also listed are the days and hours each museum is open as well as entry fees. Pariscope will also tell you if any museum is temporarily closed for renovations which happens quite often in France (you’ll see the expression fermé pour travaux if a museum is undergoing renovation).

Since the  Pariscope editors have condensed much throughout the guide in the interest of saving space, you’ll need be able to decipher relevant details entries you are interested in. For example, under the Louvre description, you’ll see:

Ouvert tlj sf mar.

What in the world does this mean? In unabbreviated French, it would read:

Ouvert tous les jours sauf mardi (Open every day except Tuesdays). So no Louvre on Tuesdays when you are in Paris!

To assist in picking out the most helpful info for museums you want to visit, here are a few of the common French abbreviations for museums in Pariscope and their English equivalent:

Days of the week:
lundi (lun) – Monday
mardi (mar) – Tuesday
mercredi (mer) – Wednesday
jeudi (jeu) – Thursday
vendredi (ven) – Friday
samedi (sam) – Saturday
dimanche (dim) – Sunday

tlj = Tous les jours (daily), sf = Sauf (except), Ent = Entrée (entry price), TR = Tarif réduit (reduced price, often for students and children or for evening hours as several Paris museums are now open at night), Caisses = Ticket office, M° = Métro (the closest metro stops so you can reach the museum easily). Note also that opening and closing times are done on a 24 hour or military clock.

Promenades et Loisirs
For monuments such as the Arc de Triomphe, walking tours, fairs, conventions, boat tours and other activities, the Promenades et Loisirs section is full of choices. My favorite part is the Visites Conferences where various guided walks are listed by day of the week. What makes the guided tours special is that they often take you into private or little known corners of Paris. The latest Pariscope I bought included descriptions of an enchanting tour of the Ile St. Louis, several mansions and secret courtyards of the Marais, and the Palais Royal neighborhood. Even if the tour guides speak only French and you don’t, just seeing the riches not accessible to the regular tourist make the walks worth every euro.

As you might have guessed, Pariscope is a staple for my time in Paris. After I get off the plane and take my first breath of Parisian air, I head straight for the nearest newsstand. The best bargain and the best guide to the city awaits.

* Les Deux Magots is located on the Left Bank at 170 Boulevard St. Germain in the sixth arrondissement. The Café de Flore is almost next door at 172 Boulevard St. Germain. The closest Métro stop is St-Germain-des-Prés.

* The Théâtre du Châtelet, or Châtelet Theatre, is located on the Right Bank at the Place du Châtelet in the first arrondissement.

Originally published June 18, 2008

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

Also in the spirit of making the most of time spent in Paris, there is a special Paris event in Dallas in mid June. To celebrate the 55th anniversary of SMU’s Continuing Studies program where I teach several courses a year, I will be giving a talk entitled “The Best of Paris:  55 Ways to Experience the City of Light.” The program description is below–come join us for a special evening and visual immersion into the best Paris has to offer…

The Best of Paris: 55 Ways to Experience the City of Light
Paris continues to be the most visited city in the world – and with good reason! It is home to some of the greatest art, architecture, churches, gardens and culture in the world. And of course, its cuisine is the best anywhere. Join us for this special class showcasing the best things to see, do, explore, taste and experience in Paris. Through illustrated lecture and discussion, we’ll cover the top 55 reasons to visit the City of Light, both on and off the beaten path. You’ll walk away from our ‘evening in Paris’ with a deeper sense of how to see and experience the world’s most beautiful city and with a travel guide for your next Paris trip. 

Date:  Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Time:  6:30 to 9pm
Location:  SMU main campus, Dallas
Registration:  Click here to register with SMU

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It’s travel season and one of the biggest draws when visiting Paris is, of course, art. I have put together a short list of some of the big exhibitions going on in the City of Light now through mid-summer.

When planning your travel to France, keep in mind that the main cultural calendars for art, music and dance around the country begin in September and run through June or early July. This means that many of the most prominent art exhibitions wrap up before the French go on summer vacation in August. A few shows do continue into August and September since people like art all year round.

But there’s plenty to see now culture-wise so if you’ve got a Paris visit planned, check out what artistic goodies are on view through the summer with the selected art guide below:

Around the time of the Impressionists

Manet, the Man who Invented Modernity  / Manet, Inventeur du Moderne at the Musée d’Orsay
Even though the Musée d’Orsay is undergoing partial renovation, notably of its Impressionist galleries, this temple of 19th century art of still open for visitors. it is hosting the first exhibit in nearly 20 years dedicated to Edouard Manet. It focuses on the historical influences of the time and illuminates the artist who has had a profound impact modern art.
Through July 3, 2011
Musée d’Orsay, 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur, Paris 7th
Métro: Solférino
Admission: €10
www.musee-orsay.fr 

The Caillebotte Brothers’ Private World, Painter and Photographer / Dans l’Intimité des Frères Caillebotte, Peintre et Photographe at the Musée Jacquemart-André
This jewelbox of a decorative arts museum hosts small, well-curated exhibitions. Now through July 11, the Jacquemart-André museum is the first in the world to showcase an encounter between Gustave Caillebotte’s Impressionist paintings of Paris and his brother Martial Caillebotte’s photographs of the same images. The exhibition is a mesmerizing tribute to the two artists and their ability to capture Paris at a time of intense change.
Through July 11, 2011
Location: Musée Jacquemart-André, 158 blvd Haussmann, Paris 8th
Métro: Saint Augustin, Miromesnil or Saint Philippe du Roule
Admission: €10
www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com

Paris at the Time of the Impressionists / Paris aux Temps des Impressionnistes at the Hotel de Ville
One of the best kept art secrets in Paris is the free exhibitions at the Paris Town Hall. You have to enter on the back (east) side of the building and sometimes endure long lines but their art exhibitions are worth it. Currently, you can take in views of Paris as it changed dramatically between 1850 and 1914. Works by Impressionist artists including Degas, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Caillebotte, Pissarro, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Signac, Bonnard and Vuillard are included—these paintings are all on loan from the nearby Musée d’Orsay which is partially closed for renovation.
Through July 30, 2011
Location: Hôtel de Ville, 5 rue Lobau, Paris 4th
Métro: Hôtel de Ville
Admission: Free

Odilon Redon, Prince du Rêve 1840–1916 at the Grand Palais
Redon was a contemporary of the Impressionists but painted in a dreamlike and surrealist manner. This show of about 270 works traces the evolution of his painting from dark tones and subjects to color and light.
Through June 20, 2011
Location: Grand Palais, Paris 8th
Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Admission: €11
www.rmn.fr

Earlier Art

Nature and the Ideal / Landscape Painting in 17th Century Rome / Nature et Idéal: Le Paysage à Rome, 1600–1650 at the Grand Palais
If you are into landscape painting, then you won’t want to miss this intriguing exhibition which catalogues the rise of landscape painting in early 17th-century Rome. It was during this time that nature became a subject in its own right. Light and atmosphere figure heavily in these lovely works by Carracci, Lorrain, Poussin, Rubens and others.
Through June 6, 2011
Location: Grand Palais, Paris 8th
Métro: Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Admission: €11
www.rmn.fr

Rembrandt and the Face of Jesus / Rembrandt et la figure du Christ at the Louvre Museum
The artistic genius of Rembrandt is evident in this exhibition devoted to portrayals of Christ.  Discarding formulaic images of the Son of God, Rembrandt explores Christ the man rising above the theological quarrels and dissensions of his day.
Through July 18, 2011
Location: Louvre Museum, Paris 8th
Admission: €11
http://www.louvre.fr/

Cranach and His Time / Cranach et Son Temps at the Musée du Luxembourg
The Musée du Luxembourg in the Luxembourg Gardens of Paris features 16th century and modern art on an alternating basis. Currently, the paintings, drawings and engravings by Lucas Cranach, one of the greatest artists of the German Renaissance, are featured. Cranach is one of the most original and talented artists of the 16th century and this exhibition of his refined and elegant art is a must-see.
Through May 23, 2011
Location: Musée du Luxembourg, 19 rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6th
Métro: Odéon
Admission: €11
www.museeduluxembourg.fr

The Sword: Uses, Myths and Symbolism / L’Epée: Usages, Mythes et Symboles at the Cluny Museum
This exhibition celebrates the sword as a weapon, fashion accessory and confirmation of power. It includes arms belonging to Joan of Arc and other powerful French historical figures.
Through September 26, 2011
Location: Musée de Cluny, 6 pl Paul Painlevé, Paris 5th
Métro: Cluny
Admission: €8.50
www.musee-moyenage.fr

“Fashion” and Fashion

Women in the East as Seen by Christian Lacroix/ L’Orient des femmes vu par Christian Lacroix at the Musée du quai Branly
Famous couture designer Christian Lacroix is no stranger to the museum scene. After wonderful exhibitions of his fashion collections at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the Musée Réattu in Arles, Provence, in the last few years, Lacroix has selected an amazing collection of traditional costumes and accessories from the Near East for display at the Musée du quai Branly in Paris.
Through May 15, 2011
Musée du quai Branly, 37, quai Branly , Paris 7th
Admission: 8, 5 €
www.quaibranly.fr/en/

Madame Grès, la Couture à l’Oeuvre at the Musée Bourdelle
For those really interested in true fashion, the Musée Galliera, the city’s fashion museum that is currently closed for renovation, has organized an exhibit of haute couture by Germaine Krebs (1903–1993), known as Madame Grès. The first retrospective ever dedicated to Madame Grès, it highlights her motto and raison d’être: « Je voulais être sculpteur. Pour moi, c’est la même chose de travailler le tissu ou la pierre » (“I wanted to be a sculpteur. For me, it’s the same to find my expression in fabric or in stone”).
Through July 24, 2011
Location: Musée Bourdelle, 16 rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15th
Métro: Falguière
Admission: €7
www.bourdelle.paris.fr

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Today in Paris, stunning boxes of chocolates, beautiful heart-shaped cakes and gorgeous bouquets of flowers have been whizzing out the doors of shops all over town in celebration of la Saint-Valentin. I thought I’d send a couple of ideas to make your Valentine’s Day a little more French if you are so inclined:

- Send a French Valentine’s Day e-card to your loved ones. Click here to see the variety of virtual French Valentine’s greeting cards available. (And there’s even an ‘Anti Saint Valentin’ option for those not wishing to oversentimentalize February 14!)

- Make the ‘Coeur au Chocolate’ cake featured by the famous Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris for Valentine’s Day this year. They have the recipe for the Chocolate Heart Cake in English with the US measuring system to make it even easier. Treat your loved ones to this French sweet treat by clicking here.

Wishing all French Affaires readers a little “Love” the Paris Ladurée way – and Joyeuse Saint-Valentin!   ~Elizabeth

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In the popular film Something’s Gotta Give starring Diane Keaton and Jack Nicholson, Keaton categorically declares that the Paris bistrot Le Grand Colbert has the “best roast chicken in the universe.” That got me thinking recently about Paris restaurants and French culinary classics–who has the best île flottante (floating island)? who has the best mousse au chocolat? the best soupe à l’oignon (French onion soup)? the best boeuf bourguignon? the best cassoulet? the best steak-frites? and then a really good one because they’re hard to make–the best soufflés?

Well, you can find soufflés on the menu of many a nice restaurant in Pah-ree. But to go to the French source, one must pay a visit to the soufflé heaven of the universe–the Paris restaurant Le Soufflé. In business since 1961, it has inspired diners for decades and also has sparked imitation restaurants the world over.

I recently lunched again at Le Soufflé and was absolutely ravie  (delighted) at what a delicious, civilized, and thoroughly French experience it was.

Le Soufflé is supremely located a stone’s throw from the Louvre, the Tuileries gardens, the Place de la Madeleine and the Place Vendôme. You walk up to the facade painted in a lovely French blue lacquer accented with small fluted awnings. As soon as you enter the hushed and casually elegant atmosphere, the very professional staff welcomes you and whisks you to your reserved table.

The word soufflé comes from the French verb “souffler,” meaning “to blow” or “to puff.” This gourmet treat gets its ‘lift’ from beaten egg whites. As Julia Child notes in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, “the glory and lightness of French soufflés are largely a matter of how voluminously stiff the egg whites have been beaten and how nicely they have been incorporated into the soufflé base.” Without getting too technical, it is clear the chefs at Le Soufflé have mastered the ‘art of the puff’ and turn out divine soufflés time after time.

While the menu does have regular dishes–the French onion soup is quite nice, the restaurant’s signature lunch experience is a savory soufflé  followed by a sweet soufflé. On this particular day, I chose the classic ham and cheese soufflé and my dining companions ordered a variety of other savory soufflés. You could tell the kitchen had the rolling stream of soufflé orders under control as our golden, puffed delights arrived at the table about 20 minutes later.

I couldn’t wait to take that first dive with a spoon into this steaming hot soufflé. The sides of the towering egg edifice then started to come down making it easier and easier to eat as I went along. The ham, cheese and eggs are a natural combination–think the classic taste of quiche lorraine in soufflé form!

Of course you have to order your dessert soufflé at the start of the meal to allow for real-time preparation. So all while I was enjoying the ham and cheese version, my chocolate soufflé was in progress. But prior to enjoying dessert, our table decided to share a bountiful salade verte (green salad). It was the perfect palate cleanser before our glorious dessert finish to the Le Soufflé meal. (The secret to very French salads is great greens and a great viniagrette–check out the photos from the recent French Affaires Vinaigrette workshop below.)

Once we had finished our savory dishes, our table’s array of dessert  soufflés arrived in their full blown glory. The winner was the chocolate version served with liquid chocolate sauce which is poured into the center. Does it get any better than this?

Our lunch was a thoroughly French and a thoroughly fulfilling dining experience. The next time you are in Paris, reserve a table at Le Soufflé and wait for the soufflé experts of the universe to make their magic. You won’t be disappointed.

Le Soufflé is located at 36, rue du Mont Thabor in the 1st arrondissement. (Don’t let the restaurant’s pretty basic web site fool you–the establishment is the epitomy of French understated elegance and charm.)

French Take-Out™ ~ La France à emporter

You may have noticed the classic porcelain ramekins that hold the savory and sweet soufflés above. They are made by Apilco, the well-known French porcelain manufacturer, and their straight sides make for successful soufflés time after time. Williams-Sonoma in the U.S. carries a nice variety of Apilco porcelain ramekins for American chefs. Click here to see their selection.

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