Elizabeth's Blog

It is tempting to think that traveling can be quantified. In other words, it’s easy to believe that it’s possible to ‘do London’ or ‘do Florence’ or ‘do Paris’ in one week. But if you’ve ever spent time in any of these cities, it’s clear that their abundant riches can’t be fully experienced in just a few days.

A similar idea comes to mind when visiting some of the regions of France. Provence, for example, is a popular destination and full of wonderful things to see and do. What becomes clear once you start planning a trip to the area, however, is how large Provence really is. So how to know where to start your visit? And how to make sure you’re not missing something really fabulous while you’re there?

Here’s a short guide to what la Provence is all about and, whether you have a few days or a few weeks or even more time, where to go to savor ‘the good stuff’:

Provence is located in France’s southeastern-most corner next to Italy. This part of the country is also known as le Midi or le Sud (short for ‘le sud de la France’). Its Mediterranean culture and beautiful climate make it one of the most blessed places in all of France, and really in all the world. Sea, sun, luscious landscapes and fragrant hills make it attractive nearly all year round. While full of cultural treasures, Provence is also known for its laid-back atmosphere which even extends to locals and their pronounced southern French accent – really a twang! And for me, just the idea of sitting outdoors at a Provence café or on the terrace at home sipping a glass of local rosé wine is sublime.

The name ‘Provence’ comes from the Romans who occupied the region 2000 years ago and called it ‘Provincia,’ or a province of Rome. Some of the most stunning features as you travel around the Provence region today are the numerous Roman ruins and monuments, many still in excellent condition.

But first things first, to figure out where to spend your time in Provence, it’s helpful to know that the region is divided into six government departments:

Les Alpes Maritimes

Le Var

Les Alpes de Haute Provence

Les Hautes Alpes

Les Bouches du Rhône

Le Vaucluse

Many consider the Alpes Maritimes department that includes the Mediterranean coast from Menton over to Cannes to be more the “French Riviera” than Provence. Known as la Côte d’Azur in French, the French Riviera is home to the glitzy, (over)developed cities on the coast such as Nice and Cannes as well as small villages such as Vence, St. Paul de Vence, Cagnes, Grasse, and more. My advice for enjoying the Riviera to the fullest is to visit any time of year except July and August when vacation crowds and traffic are absolutely overwhelming.

Regarding other Provence departments, I would say that the Var, Alpes de Hautes Provence and Hautes Alpes are less visited by tourists. The exception would be the Var which is home to the legendary St. Tropez on the coast and also intriguing cultural visits such as the inland town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie known for its charming Provençal pottery. And in the Alpes de Haute Provence, the magnificent Gorge du Verdon is a sight outdoor enthusiasts will not want to miss. The 25 kilometer long canyon welcomes hikers and kayakers wanting to see the canyon’s spectacular beauty and turquoise river waters up close.

So where do visitors go for the best of Provence? The Bouches du Rhône and the Vaucluse departments hold most of what people think of when they say ‘Provence.’ Marseille and Avignon are found here. The lovely villages perchés (hilltop towns – literally ‘perched villages’) such as Gordes are found here. Many of the most popular market towns are located in the Bouches du Rhône (meaning ‘mouth of the Rhone river’) and the Vaucluse.

For me, the absolute best part of Provence is time spent in what I call the ‘golden triangle’ bounded by Arles to the west, Avignon to the north and Aix-en-Provence to the east. Here you have the best of city life with lots to see and do of course in Aix, Avignon and Arles. Then in between, you come upon some of the most picturesque villages such as St. Rémy and Les Baux in the Alpilles hills. There are also the towns of Lourmarin and Bonnieux in the southern Luberon mountains. You have wine country. You have olive oil country. You have gardens galore. You have Roman monuments par excellence. And you have some of the best cuisine in all of France. All wrapped up in a place with some of the most magnificent weather on the planet – making every bit of it that much more enjoyable.

So I hope this demystifies Provence a little bit but we’ve really only touched the tip of the iceberg with what the region is all about. I’ll have to include some more specific places and things to visit in future postings. But for now, I’ll leave you with this wonderful quote from classic culinary writer and chef Elizabeth David which notes the eternal pull of Provence on those lucky enough to visit it:

‘Provence is a country to which I am always returning, next week, next year, any day now, as soon as I can get on to a train…’  from French Provincial Cooking (1960)

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

‘Tour de France’ Lecture Series coming up at SMU in Dallas! 

France is much more than Paris! The City of Light is spectacular and so are many other regions and their citites in France. Discover the riches of France through this extended lecture series on key French regions, including Provence.

In five comprehensive sessions, France specialist Dr. Elizabeth new Seitz will explore the geography, history, art, architecture, gardens, culture and cuisine of France’s most attractive areas through illustrated lecture and insightful discussion. Participants will receive an inclusive study guide to accompany each session along with top sights to see, places to visit, not-to-miss museums and cultural events, hotel and restaurant suggestions and more. Being immersed in the riches of the region for a few hours will leave you wanting more–to continue your studies you will depart with recommendations for further reading and films to enhance your understanding of each region.

Join us as we begin our series – you can attend all five sessions at a discount or sign up for a single session. The ‘Tour de France’ Lecture Series promises to be a unique and rich view into this beautiful country.

March 26:  Lecture 1 – Welcome to the Tour de France Lecture Series! Introduction to the Geography of France. Paris, the Ile de France and Champagne.

April 2:  Lecture 2 – Normandy, Brittany and the Loire Valley

April 9:  Lecture 3 – Burgundy, Jura and the Alps

April 16:  Lecture 4 – Provence, the Riviera and Corsica

April 23:  Lecture 5 – Southwest France- Bordeaux, Medoc and the Pyrenees

Registration for the ‘Tour de France’ Lecture Series is available directly through SMU by clicking here.

Dates:  March 26 to April 23

Time:  7 to 9pm

Location:  SMU Main Campus in Dallas

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I often get asked about my favorite places to go in France. With the amazing variety of options the country offers, that is indeed a tough question! In fact, it is said that in France the landscape and cultural character of the place changes every 30 kilometers. For a country about the size of Texas, that is quite extraordinary if you think about it.

Given the riches found all over France, I still have landed on my favorite places – places where I have lived. Places where I was a student. Places where I put down my French roots. Places that sustain my creative soul.  Places home to my good French friends. Charming places that I return to again and again. Places so special they have to be shared with other travelers to France.

With that in mind, I am excited to spotlight two of my absolute favorite French locales for our French Affaires’ insider trips this year. Provence, which has been my cultural and creative home for over 25 years, is our first destination. Provence could be described as heaven on earth. It is the land of French sun, fabulous landscapes, marvelous colors, extraordinary food and wine, deep history, and cultural offerings of every kind. And I’d also say that just sitting outdoors and enjoying an aperitif in Provence is a vacation in and of itself. If you have never been to southern France or if you’ve been but wish to experience it in a more meaningful and personal way, you’ll want to make plans to join our small group for this lovely week of “Provence bests” in September.

Our second destination this year is the Loire Valley, also known as the “garden of France.” French kings in the Renaissance made it their favorite destination and built sumptuous châteaux surrounded by exquisite gardens. It has been one of the top travel spots in France ever since. Our trip includes visits of famous châteaux such as Chenonceau, Villandry and Rivau and also includes wonderful lesser known manor houses and gardens for a very intimate feel. We’ll also enjoy a couple of days in Paris to experience gardens there as well as a visit to Monet’s  Giverny just outside the capital. Late September, early October is one of the best times to visit France with fewer tourists, delightful weather and another garden viewing season. Joining us for this trip will be Jane Holahan, a Loire Valley gardens specialist and former resident of the Loire Valley.

French Affaires’ trips to France are small, personal and full of magical experiences. Our French friends and colleagues pull out all the stops to show us what is special about their part of France. Just as important, our trips include just about everything for your stay. So you feel like you are visiting friends or family in France rather than running around as a paying tourist!

Below are overviews of both France excursions with links to the full trip descriptions. And with the euro currency at historic lows right now, we are able to offer a discount of $200 off each trip price for those signing up by February 3, 2012. See the full trip description for pricing and details.

“The Best of Provence with French Affaires” September 21 to 28, 2012 – Join Dr. Elizabeth New Seitz of French Affaires for a once-in-a-lifetime insider excursion to southern France. Possibly the most beautiful and rewarding region in all of France, Provence is known for its picturesque villages, stunning countryside, flavorful cuisine, wonderful wines, colorful and fragrant gardens, superb fountains, and relaxed culture. On our itinerary: the delightful towns of  St. Rémy, Les-Baux-de-Provence, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence; gourmet Provençal meals; wine tastings; private cooking class; shopping open-air markets; art tour with Provence artist Jill Steenhuis; the gardens of Château Val Joanis, and of course, enjoying the spectacular landscape and ambiance of Provence. Our hotel, the Château des Alpilles, is located just outside the charming town of St. Rémy for that winning ‘stay-in-the-French-countryside-with-the-town-nearby’ experience. Our group size is limited to 12 for a very special and intimate travel experience. An unforgettable personal and special immersion into the best of southern France. Please click here for the full itinerary description.

“Great Gardens & Châteaux of the Loire Valley” plus Monet’s Giverny & Paris Gardens September 30 to October 6, 2012 – Join us for this spectacular trip to France featuring great châteaux and gardens of the Loire Valley. We’ll take in the beautiful architecture of châteaux such as Chenonceau known for its soaring arches over the Indre River. We also will be treated to guided visits of well-known gardens such as Villandry—notably the most magnificent and inventive garden in all of France—and lesser known private gardens not usually accessible to the public. Our stay in the Loire Valley will be made all the more special by our lovely accommodations in château hotels in the region. Other trip highlights include two days based in Paris. From there, we’ll enjoy guided visits to Monet’s gardens and manor house at Giverny in Normandy—if you’ve never seen them in the fall, they are a must at this time of year! We’ll also have a walking tour of Paris’s amazing Luxembourg Gardens in the heart of the Left Bank. Not to miss as well are Paris’s finest garden stores and garden bookstores. Our group size is limited to 12 for a very special and intimate travel experience. Don’t miss this insiders’ trip to the Loire Valley and Paris seen through fabulous French gardens, châteaux and manor houses! Please click here for the full itinerary description.

For questions about either trip or to be sent the full itinerary and registration form, please email us at info.french@frenchaffaires.com. We look forward to hearing from you!

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I am motivated to write this week’s post for a couple of reasons. First, this week’s New York Times Magazine ran a short article on “Where to Get the World’s Best Service” which recapped the results of an informal survey on tipping practices related to quality of service. It turns out that veteran international travelers ranked service very highly in countries where tipping is not customary such as Japan and Thailand and also in countries where substantial tips are the norm such as in the U.S. and Canada.

Unsurprisingly, countries that fall in between on the tipping spectrum such as France, Italy and Spain, rated fairly low on service satisfaction. (For what it’s worth, Russia came in dead last on service.) I think confusion on French tipping customs likely contributes to this dissatisfaction in France, as do lingering stereotypes–and some real examples–of rude French waiters, but that’s another story.

In addition, it is prime travel season at the moment, and I have received a lot of good questions recently on how and when to tip in France. So, here are some suggestions for handling tips in a variety of situations on your next French trip:

Meals: In French cafés and restaurants, a 15% tip is already included by law. Menus will indicate this by saying “Service compris” somewhere on them. As such, you are not required to leave anything more. However, you can leave a little extra change as a gesture of good will for good service, particularly for a waiter who has gone out of his way to make your meal memorable.

So how much is a “little extra”? For a cup of coffee at a café for 3.5 euros, then you can leave 20 to 30 centimes on the table. For a 75 euro restaurant meal, I would leave 3 to 4 euros for the waiter. The rule of thumb is to leave between 5 and 10% in cash (there’s not usually a place on the credit card receipt for tips) if service has been good. For bad service, one doesn’t need to leave anything at all—period.

And then you might get a waiter to tries to get another 15 to 20% tip out of you. Not long ago, I took a group to a well-known Paris restaurant for lunch and as I paid the bill, the waiter tried to indicate that tips weren’t included  in the addition (bill). I challenged him on this—in French—and he backed down somewhat. Of course, we did not leave anything extra since his behavior was in such bad taste. When I later told this story to some French friends, they were appalled and agreed this was pas normal (not normal). So it definitely helps to know the tipping rules in France!

Taxis: No need to overtip on taxi rides in France. An extra 1 to 2 euros on your fare whether large or small is fine. If you are going to or from the airport, tipping 5% or so is a good gesture. If you have luggage, be sure to tip an additional euro per suitcase.

Hotel Porters: If your hotel has porters to carry your luggage to your room, 1 euro per bag is customary. If you have especially large or bulky luggage, then 2 euros per bulky bag would be well received. For bringing a lovely tray with your morning petit déjeuner (breakfast) to your room, then 1 to 2 euros is nice, especially if they remember to bring along your prefrred morning newspaper as well.

Hotel Housekeeping: You can leave 1 to 2 euros per day for your housekeeper. I tend to leave the amount appropriate for my length of stay with the front desk and let them distribute it to right personnel. You never know if you leave 20 euros on the last day of your stay whether the housekeeper that day has taken care of your room during your entire visit or not.

Hotel Concierge: For a couple of basic restaurant reservations, your hotel concierge should help you without expecting anything in return. However, if your concierge has obtained hard-to-get restaurant reservations, opera tickets, or the like, then a tip of 10 to 20 euros depending on the effort would be appropriate. I have a friend who stays in high end hotels in Paris and gives the concierge 100 euros on the first day of his stay. Accordingly, the concierge helps take care of whatever my friend needs during his week in Paris!

Coat Check: You can tip 1 euro per coat in upscale restaurants that have a person dedicated to checking coats. In more casual establishments where the waiter or owner hangs up your coat, no need to give out a separate tip.

Tour Guides: If you go on a public walking tour in Paris, you can tip your guide 1 to 2 euros for a job well done. For private guided tours, my recommendation is to tip up to 5% on top of the tour fee as I find that private tour prices are already pretty well padded before tips.

While tipping protocols are always subjective, the basic guidelines above should give you a good feel for how tips happen in France for both natives and visitors alike. And it helps to remember that you will come across all types on your French travels so be sure to evaluate each situation on its own. Bon voyage!

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French cafés are not just a place, they’re a way of life. You can drink, eat, converse, read, watch the world go by, even make it your home away from home. For the price of a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, your café table and the accompanying cultural panorama belong to you for as long as you like. What a way to “own” some French real estate!

But like so many aspects of French culture, it really helps to know some insider tips and info to enjoy your French café time to the fullest. Here are my top 10 recommendations for cracking the French café code. Read on, and make plans to head straight for a café next time you are in France…

1) Which café? Wherever you are in France—in a small country village or in bustling Paris—be sure to choose a café with the most French people (i.e. avoid anybody wearing fanny packs, cameras, and tennis shoes). You want to feel like you’re in France, not in a Starbucks at home.

2) Where to sit? Hands down, if it’s a nice day, sit outside on the terrace. It’s great for people watching, and weather in France is generally lovely. There’s often some street entertainment going on such as the accordionist below. These days, even winter café going can be a pleasure as many cafés have electric heaters overhead to keep things warm and toasty. On the other hand, if you’re on a strict budget, sitting inside is always a good option since menu items cost more on the terrace than inside the café. On that note, if you’re going in for a drink, standing at the bar costs less than sitting at a table. Ditto in Italy.

3) Engaging with the waitstaff: To ensure good relations with the wait staff, always greet your (usually male) waiter with a nice “Bonjour, Monsieur!” And attempt your best French. He’ll be more attentive to you if you try. And whatever you do, don’t call him over with a loud “Garçon!” It’s very fifties…and also rude.

4) Ordering coffee: Coffee is a French café staple. You can order un express (an expresso), un crème (how the French order coffee with hot milk these days), un café américain (black coffee but not as strong as expresso—more like drip coffee) or perhaps un thé (tea). My morning beverage in France is un grand crème, or an extra large coffee with milk. Note that the French do not have milk in their coffee later in the day or at night—it’s strictly expresso for them following lunch or dinner.

5) What about other drinks? There are a variety of other beverages on offer at French cafés besides le café (coffee). Of the non-alcoholic variety, you can order un citron pressé (fresh-squeezed lemonade where you add sugar and water to taste), les jus de fruits (fruit juices), un Orangina (sparkling orange soda made in France), un coca / coca light (Coke and Diet Coke) and les eaux minérales such as Vittel or Evian (flat mineral waters) and Badoit or San Pellegrino (sparkling mineral waters). It is helpful to remember that Coke can cost more than the house wine in France. Also, hip French people these days forego all the wonderful French mineral waters in favor of San Pellegrino. Go figure?!

If it’s apéritif time, there are a variety of bières (beers) available. Draft is une pression or un demi (half pint). And then of course, there’s wine—un vin rouge, un vin blanc (a glass of red or white wine) or un rosé (glass of rosé wine). In summer in France, I drink almost nothing but chilled rosé as it is the perfect summer drink. If you are celebrating something, or even if you’re not, a nice coupe de champagne (glass of champagne) is never wrong in France. Finally, you can order hard liquor, brandy (France has amazing ones, bien sûr), or something like pastis, the licorice flavored liqueur typical of southern France.

6) What about café food? Food is almost always very good in France, even in cafés. The menu du jour (day’s set menu) allows you to have a nice meal—often a starter, main dish and dessert—for a reasonable price. Another option is to ask the waiter what he prefers on la carte (the paper menu). He’ll be flattered you asked his advice, and often times will go above and beyond to make sure the plate he brings to the table is excellent!

Or you can order quintessential French dishes such as quiche lorraine or un croque monsieur (open faced hot ham and cheese sandwich) or steak tartare served with a green salad. While most cafés won’t win gourmet food awards, you’ll get a good, honest meal and experience a slice of French daily life at the same time.

7) How to get the check? In French cafés and restaurants, you must always ask for your check, or l’addition. Make eye contact with your waiter and call him over with “Monsieur.” Then you can say, “L’addition, s’il vous plaît.”

8) What about tipping? Tipping in France is often confusing for Americans. French tipping is included in the price of food and drink; menus will say somewhere service compris to indicate this. So leaving another 15 to 20% can come off as an insult—the waiter might think you see him as a charity case. However, I have seen waitstaff in Europe who take advantage of the fact that foreigners are not aware tips are already included and relish or even encourage the additional tip windfall. In French cafés, the right protocol is to pay your check with cash or a credit card and then leave a euro or two extra in cash as a gesture of good will.

You can also leave a cute note to your waiter. I once took some college girls on a February trip to Paris, and they thought our young waiter at Les Deux Magots was handsome enough to merit a quick thank-you note in English with a nice “Happy Valentine’s Day” in French. We left the café before he came back by our table—I wished I could have seen the look on his face when he read it!

9) Toilettes: You can use the facilities in a café if you are a paying customer. Note that café restrooms are often in the basement so look for a small stairway going downstairs.

10) Good Paris cafés: Next time you are in Paris, drop by the Left Bank café icons Les Deux Magots and the Café de Flore. They’re pricier than some but the people-watching is divine. While there will be tourists, enough French people fill the tables to make these cafés endlessly interesting. A little more off the Left Bank beaten path is La Palette on the Rue de Seine. Very French and what most cafés used to feel like.

If you have a great café anecdote to share, let other French Affaires readers in on your experience by posting it here. We love to hear about any and all French cultural adventures!

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The air is crisp and cool. The sky is clear. The tourists are long gone. Transatlantic airfares are super low. And Paris is dressed up in her holiday best.

Christmas-time is a feast for the senses everywhere in France but especially in Paris. The whole city sparkles with dazzling Christmas lights, fabulous window displays, marvelous gifts, endless champagne, to-die-for gourmet seasonal cuisine, and festive happenings. This year’s French Affaires Fall Trip celebrates the best of the Paris holiday season with all of this and more for a truly insider stay in the City of Light.

Our Paris journey begins just after Thanksgiving on Tuesday, November 29, and wraps up Monday, December 5, to get everyone back to their families and friends in plenty of time to enjoy the holidays at home. If you’ve never “done Paris” at this time of year, then treat yourself to a unique cultural experience and a fabulous vacation too!

“Paris at the Holidays” Itinerary

Join French specialist Dr. Elizabeth New Seitz and other French Affaires patrons for this exclusive holiday excursion to Paris! This festive & unforgettable journey to the French capital will include everything that sparkles in Paris—Christmas lights, holiday markets, gourmet Parisian dining, champagne, art, culture,  jewels, gift shopping, & more. We’ll also get a personal Parisian touch with private events such as our own holiday cooking class with Susan Herrmann of “On Rue Tatin” French Cooking School, Insider tours & events with Paris friends of French Affaires, a Champagne Tasting class, & our special holiday dinner at an exquisite museum in the Marais. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg!  A once-in-a-lifetime immersion into the French holiday spirit. Trip cost covers everything except airfare & two meals. For a customized & superlative French travel experience, our trip is limited to 8 participants.

TUESDAY, NOV 29 – Depart U.S. for Paris!

WEDNESDAY, NOV 30 – PARIS HOLIDAY SHOP WINDOWS TOUR, CHAMPAGNE RECEPTION & WELCOME DINNER

We’ll arrive in Paris Wednesday morning where pre-arranged transport will take us to our hotel, the charming & gracious Hôtel Duc de St. Simon on the Left Bank. Then, we’ll lunch at the celebrated tea salon Ladurée on the Left Bank in its lovely chinoiserie-styled dining room. We’ll be sure to taste Ladurée’s famous almond macarons. That afternoon, we’ll take a walking tour of gorgeous French shop windows dressed up for the holidays & also browse the annual Christmas market along the Champs-Elysées. In the evening, we’ll celebrate our arrival with champagne in our hotel’s wine cellar followed by a delicious dinner at an authentic Parisian bistrot.

Holiday lights & shop windows along Paris’s Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré

THURSDAY, DEC 1 – SPARKLING PARIS—JEWELS, ART, CHRISTMAS LIGHTS

Today in Paris includes everything that sparkles. In the morning, we’ll be treated to private viewings of well-known Place Vendôme jewelers, including a private jewel workshop & jewelry museum. For lunch, we’ll stop at the casually elegant Le Soufflé & try the best savory & sweet soufflés in the universe. Then, we’ll take in a current art exhibition at a prominent Paris museum. That evening, we’ll be treated to a private dinner & guided tour at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in its stunning 17th century mansion in the Marais. Our magical day ends with a car tour of Christmas lights in Paris at night!

FRIDAY, DEC 2 – HOLIDAY COOKING CLASS WITH SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS OF ON RUE TATIN COOKING SCHOOL

Celebrated cookbook author & chef Susan Herrmann Loomis of “On Rue Tatin” Cooking School will take us on a special open-air, food market tour where we’ll buy seasonal ingredients for our multi-course holiday lunch. Then we’ll head to a private Paris Left Bank cooking studio where Susan will lead us through a hands-on cooking class of quintessential French dishes that are wonderful to make at Christmastime. Finally we’ll sit down & enjoy our culinary creations paired with French wine. Late afternoon free for shopping or sightseeing. Dinner & night out on your own.

SATURDAY, DEC 3 – GOURMET FOOD SHOPS TOUR & GOURMET HOLIDAY DINNER

This morning, we’ll tour some of the best chocolate, pastry & specialty food shops in Paris with the opportunity to purchase Christmas gifts along the way. We’ll lunch at a casual Parisian café amongst the locals. That afternoon, there will be ample free time to shop for gifts–be sure to bring an extra bag for your shopping treasures! Or you can go ice skating in front of Paris’s town hall in the center of the city! In the evening, we’ll dress up for our gourmet holiday dinner at a celebrated two-Michelin starred gastronomic restaurant & enjoy breathtaking holiday dishes paired with French wines.

Shop windows & holiday lights at Paris’s grand department store Galeries Lafayette

Ice skating French-style in front of Paris’s town hall

SUNDAY, DEC 4 – NOTRE DAME CHRISTMAS TREE & PRIVATE CHAMPAGNE CLASS

This morning, you can sleep in & enjoy brunch/lunch on your own or sightsee as you wish. We’ll meet in the early afternoon to visit Notre Dame Cathedral with its spectacular 50-foot Christmas tree & French nativity scene. After a brief stroll of the islands, we’ll head to Paris’s best Champagne bar for a Champagne class & tasting since Champagne is THE French drink for the holidays. That evening we’ll have our final celebration dinner at a charming French restaurant & be treated to a wonderful discussion of French etiquette & holiday table traditions by Marie de Tilly, the renowned French manners expert. Walk back to our hotel along the Seine for beautiful views of Paris at night.

Annual Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame Cathedral

MONDAY, DEC 5 – Return to the U.S.

For those interested, we will pick up your custom order of Poilâne breads & holiday cookies to take home for wonderful holiday entertaining. Pre-arranged transport to Charles de Gaulle airport for travel back to the U.S.

Poilane’s famous Christmas cookies!

Trip Registration & Cost:   For the “Paris at the Holidays” full description & registration form, please email us at info.french@frenchaffaires.com . The trip cost is $4450 per person double occupancy & includes hotel, most meals, cultural excursions & events, tips, transport in Paris & trip guiding (airfare & one lunch / one dinner not included). Single supplement additional. Please call us with any questions at 214-232-5344 . There are a few spots remaining so make plans to enrich your travel experience AND your 2011 holiday season!

Happy Holidays!!

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Going to France at any time during the year is rich enough. However, planning your stay around certain annual special events can be terrifically rewarding. To help you decide on when to visiter la belle France, here is a compendium of events and activities in Paris and elsewhere in France that are particularly memorable:

January
La Fête des Rois – Close on the heels of Christmas comes the la fête des rois (Feast of the Epiphany or Three Kings Day), commemorating the arrival of the three kings to see the baby Jesus. You know the Feast of the Epiphany is nigh in France when the galettes des rois (king’s cakes) take over many pâtisseries (pastry shops) in France for the month. So if you are in France in January, be sure to try this delicious dessert—and you might become queen or king for the day! (Click here for how this works.)

Les Soldes d’hiver  – Shop sales, or soldes, are closely regulated in France and happen twice a year – in winter and in summer. Discounts can be significant at everything from high-end luxury shops such as Louis Vuitton to department stores to small boutiques. The French mark their calendars for this event and line up with gusto to take advantage of the great prices. The French winter sales start around the third week in January and run through mid-February. Summer sales run from the end of June through mid-July.

February
La Saint Valentin – Valentines’ Day in France is not as commercial as in the U.S….but it’s getting there. If you in Paris for February 14, you will have a gorgeous array of chocolates, cakes, tarts and flowers to choose from when celebrating your loved one. Click here for a visual Valentine ‘tour de Paris’…

Carnaval de Nice – There are many Mardi Gras carnaval celebrations all over the world but the one in Nice is particularly noteworthy. The festivities last for two weeks and draw over a million visitors to this southern French city. Parades, cultural activities, sporting events, fairs and more mark this famous French winter event. www.nicecarnaval.com

April
Paris Marathon – For the sportive / sportif (athletic) among us, a great way to see Paris is by running the Paris marathon. It takes place in mid-April and draws more and more runners each year. You can start training now for the next one which takes place on April 15, 2012!  www.parismarathon.com

May
May Day – May 1 is a national holiday in France so most things are closed on this day. But it is also May Day and French people celebrate by giving each other un joli petit brin de muguet (a beautiful small bouquet of lily of the valley flowers). It is a charming moment to experience in France if you happen to be there. Just look for a street vendor selling the wonderful-smelling flowers to purchase some for yourself or a loved one.

Nuit des musées – “Museum Night” in France has become a big hit with all sorts of cultural institutions staying open into the evening and putting on interesting programs, lectures and concerts. This year’s Museum Night is tomorrow, May 14. During the evening, you can take in some of the current temporary exhibits going on – click here for the French Affaires’ recent museum posting on this – or try something not on the article’s list such as fashion mogul Ralph Lauren’s classic cars on view at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (in part of the Louvre building). You can browse tomorrow evening’s offerings at a variety of Paris museums by clicking here.

Cannes film festival – If you are into cinema, then you’ll want to check out the Cannes Film Festival that runs from mid to late May every year. Woody Allen just kicked off this year’s festival with his film ode to Paris, Midnight in Paris. He even managed to get a cameo appearance from France’s first lady, Carla Bruni Sarkozy. And as you dine at restaurants in and around the Cannes area while the Festival is going on, you will see movie stars and film directors from around the world so be sure and bring your autograph book! www.festival-cannes.com

Roland Garros – The French Open Tennis Tournament, known as Roland Garros for the sports complex where it’s hosted on the western side of Paris, runs from mid-May to early June each year. Tickets can be purchased online or through agents. If you go, don’t miss the tennis museum on the grounds which chronicles the history of the sport. Click here for more info on the tennis museum.  www.rolandgarros.com

June
Fête de la musique – Of all the annual special events in France, this is definitely one to work your France trip around. Of course, it’s during prime travel season which makes it easier—but it’s also one of the most fun and accessible to anyone, native French people and visitors alike. The Music Festival takes place each year on the evening of June 21 and marks the summer solstice, ie the longest light day of the year. Thousands of musical events and concerts are held all over France—and are free. From rock concerts in the Place de la Bastille in Paris, to chamber music quartets in courtyards, to Edith Piaf sound-alikes on streetcorners, there is something musical for everyone. The French Fête de la Musique has been such a success over the past 30 years that it now has spread all over the world. www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr/

July-August
Festival d’Aix en Provence – Another musical extravaganza worth noting is the Music Festival of Aix-en-Provence held each year from late June through July. Tickets are expensive and hard to come by since this event rivals the famous annual music festival in Salzburg, Austria. But attending is worth every penny and the effort to get there for these world-class performances of opera, symphony, chamber music and more.  www.festival-aix.com

Bastille day – July 14 marks la Fête Nationale in France, or the French equivalent of July 4th in the U.S. Also known as le quatorze juillet, this national holiday in Paris is marked by parades along the Champs-Elysées including fly-overs by French fighter jets and by fireworks displays above the Eiffel Tower.

Jazz à Juan-les-pins – One of the most famous jazz festivals in the world takes place every July at Juan-les-pins near Cannes on the French Riviera. What could be better than listening to B.B. King at this wonderful French beachside town? Click here for this year’s Jazz à Juan program.

Tour de France Bike Race – This legendary bike race zooms all over France and ends in Paris on the Champs-Elysées every year. Take in a view of the bikers on one the étapes around France or wait for the grand finish in Paris. It is a French event not to be missed. www.letour.fr/

Paris plages – The “Paris Beaches” celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Designed to bring a vacation motif to Parisians who don’t have the time or means to go the beach, the city brings in truckloads of sand and palm trees to create a beach setting along the Seine in the heart of Paris. The Paris Plages event lasts for a month from the end of July to the end of August. Bring your beach towel and suntan lotion for a true Paris tan!  www.paris-plages.fr/

September
Les Journées du Patrimoine – This is one of my favorite annual events in France. For two days in mid-September, “French Heritage Days” offers visitors the opportunity to take tours of all sorts of fabulous palaces, buildings and châteaux that are not normally open to the public. The Luxembourg palace in the Luxembourg gardens in Paris is just one example. This year’s Journées du Patrimoine fall on Saturday and Sunday, September 17 and 18, so mark your calendars now for this extra-special and ultra-French event. www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr

November
Armistice day – November 11 marks Armistice Day from World War I and a national holiday in France. If you’ve never seen a military parade on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, then be sure and see this one sometime in your France travels.

December
Noël en France – Ah, Christmastime in France…Late November and the beginning of December mark the start of the magical French Christmas season. Holiday lights glow all over Paris on the grand boulevards and in side streets, the French department stores are dressed to the nines with their holiday lights and window displays, and the Christmas markets along the Champs-Elysées and by area churches sell holiday gifts and mulled wine to shoppers. And seeing the 50-foot Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame cathedral is a travel must.

If you want to get to Paris to see the festive sights and do some Christmas shopping this year, consider joining the French Affaires’ “Paris at the Holidays 2011” trip. It’s scheduled for just after Thanksgiving and will showcase Paris at its sparkling, holiday best. Of course, French food and wine at the holidays are amazing so will be a big feature of our holiday time in Paris. The trip is starting to fill up so click here for the Paris holiday trip itinerary and make plans to put Paris in your Christmas holiday season!  “Joyeux Noël” (Merry Christmas) and “Joyeuses fêtes” (Happy Holidays)!!

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In the spirit of the summer travel season, I thought I’d do another posting on getting the best out of Paris. Many of you wrote in that last week’s article on current art exhibitions in Paris was very helpful–and timely.

This week’s article is about Pariscope–the insider’s guide to everything going on in Paris every week. I originally published this piece as “The Best Bargain in Paris” in June of 2008. Since then, I still think the subject is the best deal in the city, but I also now call it  the best guidebook to Paris as well. With so much to see and do in this most visited world capital, it’s possible one could miss out on something really special during one’s Paris visit. Picking up a copy of Pariscope can help ensure that you are up to speed on everything interesting going on in Paris while you are there.

Pariscope for the week of May 4-10, 2011

So enjoy this updated piece on the Paris insider’s guide and take it to heart when you are next in the most beautiful city in the world:

The Best Guide to Paris / The Best Bargain in Paris

It is a given these days that a stay in any world metropolis is going to cost you, especially in Europe. With the euro near record highs, une tasse de café (a cup of coffee) at a major café in Paris such as Les Deux Magots or the Café de Flore on the Left Bank will set you back the equivalent of a good six or seven dollars.* Ouch. Or as the French say, “Aïe!”

With that sobering benchmark in mind, a bargain in Paris sounds like an oxymoron at best. But you don’t have to look far to find a great deal in the City of Light–you can buy it at any newsstand or kiosque. It’s called Pariscope.

A small, newsprint magazine of more than 200 pages, Pariscope comes out each Wednesday of the year and costs less than a euro. To be exact, it is only .40€. That’s about 60¢ in U.S. money. “Pariscope” is a play on the French word ‘périscope’ or ‘periscope’ in English–from the device aboard a submarine allowing you to see everything outside the ship.

So what’s inside that allows you to ’see everything in Paris’? Pariscope is THE guide to what’s happening each week in la Capitale. Current art exhibitions, museums, galleries, new films (movies open on Wednesdays in France compared to Friday openings in the U.S.), theatre, music, opera, dance, festivals, antique fairs, walking tours, sports. You name the activity, it’s in there.

While the low price and rich content are the good news (and it’s super lightweight, making it very easy to carry around during your Paris wanderings), the “not-so-good” news for non-French speakers is that it’s all in French. However, with a few contextual clues and the glossary below or perhaps the help of your hotel concierge, you can pull together the ideal Paris itinerary from this insider’s guide. The most interesting offerings can be found in the following sections of Pariscope:

Ma ville
This short entry spotlights a particular area of the city or weekly topic. For example, one Pariscope I picked up last year focused on “Paris for antique lovers.” Another, “Paris, homeland of artists,” described small museums that used to be homes of famous writers and artists such as Victor Hugo and Eugène Delacroix. In February of this year, the Ma Ville section of four to five pages was a “Passport to China” and captured events in Paris related to the Chinese New Year. At a glance, you discover a major happening or theme in Paris for the week.

Musique
If you are a lover of music in any form, this section is for you. Classical music, opera, ballet, jazz, and rock events are listed here. Concerts are organized by type of music and day of the week. Saturdays and Sundays are particularly interesting in the classical section as there are often free concerts in area churches over the weekend (you’ll know a concert is free if it includes entrée libre in the description). At the other end of the spectrum, i.e. paying concerts, you have some of the greatest musical talent in the world performing in Paris. I will never forget a chamber music concert I attended at the jewelbox Théâtre du Châtelet in the heart of Paris some years ago.* Violinist Itzhak Perlman, pianist Vladimir Ashkenazy and cellist Lyn Harrell were playing the works of Brahms among others. The evening was pure magic. Musicians, instruments, audience and venue came together in an extra-extra-ordinary way, and you could have heard a pin drop throughout the performance. As proof of the divine musical gift that night, there were five standing ovations at the end. Bravo!

Arts
Museums are top of my Paris to-do list. The Arts section includes information on all the museums and art galleries in Paris. The Arts rubric also spells out the current exhibitions on view at museums and galleries across the city. It’s nearly an embarras du choix (an embarassment of riches–ie, too great a choice). You can check what is on view at Le Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Musée Rodin and other well-known museums. Many lesser-known museums are included such as the Musée de la Poupée (Doll Museum), Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (Nature & Hunting Museum) and the Musée de la Légion d’Honneur (Legion of Honor Museum). Also listed are the days and hours each museum is open as well as entry fees. Pariscope will also tell you if any museum is temporarily closed for renovations which happens quite often in France (you’ll see the expression fermé pour travaux if a museum is undergoing renovation).

Since the  Pariscope editors have condensed much throughout the guide in the interest of saving space, you’ll need be able to decipher relevant details entries you are interested in. For example, under the Louvre description, you’ll see:

Ouvert tlj sf mar.

What in the world does this mean? In unabbreviated French, it would read:

Ouvert tous les jours sauf mardi (Open every day except Tuesdays). So no Louvre on Tuesdays when you are in Paris!

To assist in picking out the most helpful info for museums you want to visit, here are a few of the common French abbreviations for museums in Pariscope and their English equivalent:

Days of the week:
lundi (lun) – Monday
mardi (mar) – Tuesday
mercredi (mer) – Wednesday
jeudi (jeu) – Thursday
vendredi (ven) – Friday
samedi (sam) – Saturday
dimanche (dim) – Sunday

tlj = Tous les jours (daily), sf = Sauf (except), Ent = Entrée (entry price), TR = Tarif réduit (reduced price, often for students and children or for evening hours as several Paris museums are now open at night), Caisses = Ticket office, M° = Métro (the closest metro stops so you can reach the museum easily). Note also that opening and closing times are done on a 24 hour or military clock.

Promenades et Loisirs
For monuments such as the Arc de Triomphe, walking tours, fairs, conventions, boat tours and other activities, the Promenades et Loisirs section is full of choices. My favorite part is the Visites Conferences where various guided walks are listed by day of the week. What makes the guided tours special is that they often take you into private or little known corners of Paris. The latest Pariscope I bought included descriptions of an enchanting tour of the Ile St. Louis, several mansions and secret courtyards of the Marais, and the Palais Royal neighborhood. Even if the tour guides speak only French and you don’t, just seeing the riches not accessible to the regular tourist make the walks worth every euro.

As you might have guessed, Pariscope is a staple for my time in Paris. After I get off the plane and take my first breath of Parisian air, I head straight for the nearest newsstand. The best bargain and the best guide to the city awaits.

* Les Deux Magots is located on the Left Bank at 170 Boulevard St. Germain in the sixth arrondissement. The Café de Flore is almost next door at 172 Boulevard St. Germain. The closest Métro stop is St-Germain-des-Prés.

* The Théâtre du Châtelet, or Châtelet Theatre, is located on the Right Bank at the Place du Châtelet in the first arrondissement.

Originally published June 18, 2008

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

Also in the spirit of making the most of time spent in Paris, there is a special Paris event in Dallas in mid June. To celebrate the 55th anniversary of SMU’s Continuing Studies program where I teach several courses a year, I will be giving a talk entitled “The Best of Paris:  55 Ways to Experience the City of Light.” The program description is below–come join us for a special evening and visual immersion into the best Paris has to offer…

The Best of Paris: 55 Ways to Experience the City of Light
Paris continues to be the most visited city in the world – and with good reason! It is home to some of the greatest art, architecture, churches, gardens and culture in the world. And of course, its cuisine is the best anywhere. Join us for this special class showcasing the best things to see, do, explore, taste and experience in Paris. Through illustrated lecture and discussion, we’ll cover the top 55 reasons to visit the City of Light, both on and off the beaten path. You’ll walk away from our ‘evening in Paris’ with a deeper sense of how to see and experience the world’s most beautiful city and with a travel guide for your next Paris trip. 

Date:  Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Time:  6:30 to 9pm
Location:  SMU main campus, Dallas
Registration:  Click here to register with SMU

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To Anglo-Saxons, French people are well-known for their pride of place. They are very fiers (proud) of their country, its history and its culture. After all, France was the world’s trend setter in diplomacy, art, architecture, literature, philosophy, science, and more for centuries.

Many English speakers are also aware that the French hold their language in high esteem. Unfortunately, this awareness has not always come under the best of circumstances. It’s been widely noted that the French have not taken kindly to English-speaking travelers running about their country not knowing a lick of French. In fact, I would say that much of the legendary French rudeness has to do with the Anglo-Saxon unwillingness or inability to communicate in French.

But if you have been on the receiving end of a perceived French slight, it’s helpful to dig a little deeper and understand why speaking a little French when buying a baguette in a boulangerie (bakery) in France is a must. One of my favorite quotes about the French attitude towards their language comes from the book Sixty Million Frenchmen Can’t Be Wrong (2003), a cultural study of France by Canadians Jean-Benoît Nadeau & Julie Barlow. They shed some further light on how the French feel about their native tongue:

“Language is a national complex in France. Anglo-Americans consider language a tool, but the French regard it as an accomplishment, even a work of art. They love and cherish their language in ways that are almost incomprehensible to English speakers. It’s their national monument.”

Before Americans get complexed about not speaking French in France as well as a French person, it is helpful to know that the internet and globalization have led to a much wider use of English in France. Nowadays, when your French taxi driver speaks English back to you, it’s not to show up your French—it’s to practice his English!

Still, when traveling in France, you need to know a little French, if only for good cultural relations. The trick is to focus on what will get you around the best—and also which part of the language the French care about most. There are three parts to this formula:

First, you need to put together a ‘French toolkit’ of key words and phrases. Second, you need to master the top cultural and etiquette rules to avoid those embarrassing “faux pas” (‘faux pas’ literally means ‘false step’ in French). And finally, you need to know which of the three components of their language the French care about the most—is it grammar, vocabulary or pronunciation? If you guessed pronunciation, vous avez raison (you are right).

I recently looked around my library from my French professor days, and as if to underscore this point, the number of titles having to do with French phonetics and pronunciation is considerable…

-       Exercices systématiques de prononciation française (Systematic exercises of French pronunication) 

-       Principes de phonétique française a l’usage des étudiants anglo-américains (Principles of French phonetics for Anglo-American Students) 

-       The Phonetics of French

-       Bien entendu! Introduction à la prononciation française (Introduction to French Pronunication) 

-       Les difficultés phonétiques du français (The Difficulties of French Phonetics) 

-       Outils: Le français par le dialogue (Tools: French By Dialogue)

-       A drillbook of French pronunication

-       Introduction à la phonétique corrective (Introduction to Corrective Phonetics)

-       D’Accord: La Prononciation du français international – acquisition et perfectionnement (The Pronunciation of International French)

-       Savoir dire – cours de phonétique et de prononication (To Know How to Say It in French: A Course in Phonetics and Pronunciation)

-       Outils: Façons de parler (Tools: Ways of Speaking French)

-       Exercises in French phonics

Despite the serious sounding works above, there are some specific–and fairly easy–ways for English speakers to put aside their American accent and quickly sound more French. Even if you were not a French major in college. And with a bit of time and attention to pronouncing the French language, you can pleasantly surprise many French people on your next visit to France.

So you are probably asking which French language book includes this (almost magic) three-part formula to getting around in French in France? I wish I could say that one exists—maybe I will have to put it together! But due to the numerous requests for this info that I have received over the years from American travelers, I did create a “Survival French” class which is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year. It’s practically a crash course in Beginning French with the key phrases, essential etiquette and pronunciation tips included. I’ll be teaching it starting next week at SMU in Dallas, and if you have a France trip coming up this spring or summer, you might want to come join us—your French savvy will help you have the trip of a lifetime.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

The French Affaires ‘Survival French’ course is offered this spring through SMU’s Continuing Education program:

Survival French:  Keys for a Successful Travel Experience in France - March 28-30 (Mon, Tues, Wed nights) from 7 to 9pm, SMU Dallas campus – $79

“Making an effort with the language in France goes a long way, even though almost everyone speaks English these days. Learn five keys of French language and culture that will pave the way for a great trip to Paris or any other destination in “la belle France.” Cover essential phrases, “La French etiquette,” indispensable pronunciation tips, and more. This course complements regular French courses; however, no previous French study is required.”  Our class text: “Larousse French Phrasebook” (approx $5.95), available at the SMU Bookstore, Mockingbird & Airline, 214-768-2435. To register for the Survival French course, please click here.

Last year’s class at SMU really got into it–here is some feedback from participants Beth and Don M.:

“Our group from your class just got back last night from our trip to Europe, most of which was in France. We had a ball and owe a lot of our success to your class. The French were great. They just light up when you greet them and bounce a ‘Bonjour’ back. It’s really an ice breaker. And sure enough, we always had to ask for the check which you taught us…Thanks again for all the tips on visiting France. It really helped.”

Also at SMU beginning tonight is the SMU French Film Festival for Spring 2011. You can hear the sounds of French through several contemporary French films with subtitles. Click here to see the film line-up and schedule.

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