Elizabeth's Blog

In keeping with last week’s posting about dessert, it seemed fitting to continue with a variation on the sweet theme…though this time with a decidedly artistic tangent!

Recently, I was dining with friends at one of Paris’ oldest bistrots, La Fontaine de Mars, in the Rue St. Dominique and ended a classically French meal—steak frites—with an equally classic dessert…île flottante, or floating island. If you have never had it, île flottante is a fluffy mound of toasted meringue in a pool of crème anglaise (custard sauce). I like it after a heavier French dinner as it is wonderfully flavorful yet light.

When the evening’s dessert arrived, I was struck by its distinctive shape—it reminded me at once of French haystacks…the ones from Normandy that Monet painted time after time in various lights of day.

I thought about how Monet lovingly depicted the cone top with straight sides in the morning, afternoon and early evening. Having seen an exhibition years ago in France on Monet’s “series paintings” (haystacks, Rouen cathedral, poplars, water lilies), I was transported to peaceful fields adorned with that soft and tender light that bespeaks northern France… 

In preparing for a recent lecture on Normandy for the Dallas Museum of Art, I came across a photo of a French haystack under construction. The photo is part of the publicity for a fascinating collaboration this summer celebrating Impressionism. It’s called Normandie Impressionionniste 2010 and will take place all over Normandy, the home of this artistic movement. More than 160 towns, villages and organizations will host events and exhibitions including painting, contemporary art, music, cinema, theatre, dance, photography, video, literature, lectures, light and sound, and more. If you already have Normandy  in your summer travel plans, you are in for a rich treat…If not, it’s a reason to rush out and buy a ticket to France.

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Years ago, I did the Normandy ‘grand tour.’ My mother and I had rented a car and we took in the major sights in this rich corner of northern France: le Mont St. Michel, la Tâpisserie de Bayeux (the Bayeux Tapestry), les plages de débarquement (World War II landing beaches), the beachside towns of Deauville and Trouville, the gothic spires and half-timbered houses of old Rouen, Monet’s artistic haven at Giverny, and the miles of verdant countryside in between.

It was all spectacular but my most magical memory was the short afternoon we spent near the Abbaye du Bec-Hellouin, an ancient Benedictine monastery in a small Norman valley near the Bec river. As the gates were open, we drove into the monastery grounds to visit the beautiful 17th and 18th century buildings. What we did not know was that this enchanting place where time seemed to have stopped was closed to visitors.

A very proper monk came out to greet us and kindly sent us on our way. We regretfully left the premises and headed toward the adjacent village. We ended up at a true French auberge (inn) where we consoled ourselves with nice lunch of regional cuisine. To finish up, I tasted for the first time the Normandy chef d’oeuvre (masterpiece), la tarte tatin (the upside down, caramelized apple tart).

Just recently, I attended cooking school in Normandy where cookbook author and chef Susan Herrmann Loomis taught us how to make this quintessential Norman dessert. Susan runs “On Rue Tatin”, the appropriately named cooking school in Louviers about 30 minutes from Rouen.

We first went shopping for our apple tart ingredients at the local Saturday market. Il était une fois (once upon a time), Normandy was home to more than 2000 varieties of apples. Today, there are about 400. You can see many of these varieties on any given market day. Their beautiful shapes and colors made me wish that Monet had done some “series paintings” of Normandy pommes…

Our choice for the tarte tatin was the Cox Orange Pippin variety. You need apples that are somewhat tart and hold their shape–a French tarte tatin is definitely not an ‘applesauce tart.’

The first step in the recipe is to place the granulated sugar in the bottom of  the pan. Susan used a wonderful copper moule à tarte tatin (a pan made especially for cooking a tarte tatin). Then large slices of butter are laid over the sugar. The time-consuming part is peeling and coring all the apples…But you can leave them in halves–no slicing needed.

Then you arrange the apples artfully around the pan like so…

Next, the pan is placed on the stove (gas flame preferred) and the butter melts, the sugar caramelizes and then the apples begin to caramelize as well…

Once the apples are done (it takes about an hour), the prepared pastry is placed on top of the apples and the tart goes into the oven until the pastry is golden. Finally, the moment of truth…Susan flipped the piping-hot tart onto a serving plate and voilà! You can even see the steam rising…

After a nice lunch that we also prepared in this hands-on cooking class, we enjoyed a slice of the warm tart with a spoonful of crème fraîche. You could say that this dish is ‘Normandy on a plate.’

In the spirit of putting ‘theory into practice,’ I made a tarte tatin at home last weekend. It turned out perfectly and tasted of France at every bite. I can’t wait to make it again…even if it means peeling all those apples!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

French Affaires Fall 2010 Trip: “Gourmet Paris” – We’ll have the chance to cook with Susan Herrmann Loomis again on our culinary trip to the French capital. Susan will take us on a special market tour where we’ll buy seasonal ingredients for our multi-course lunch. Then she’ll lead us through a hands-on cooking class of quintessential French dishes that are perfect to make at home. Finally we’ll sit down and enjoy our culinary creations paired with wine. Trip dates: November 2 to 8, 2010. Trip details coming soon on the French Affaires web site!

“The Lens of Impressionism” exhibit at the Dallas Museum of Art – This spring , the Dallas Museum of Art ‘goes to Normandy’ in this fascinating exhibit on the interplay of photography and impressionist painting along the Normandy coast from 1850 to 1874. Light, sky, clouds, sea, water, mood, and atmosphere were major themes for the French artists in this time and place. The show is accompanied by a Saturday lecture series, Late Night events and even culinary experiences in partnership with Rise No 1 restaurant. For the culinary sessions, the DMA is offering the member discount to French Affaires patrons–just be sure to mention “French Affaires” when registering. More information on the exhibition and other events can be found here.

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It’s a good thing Valentine’s Day is in February. I don’t know about you, but I need some couleur (color) during the winter.

In Paris, the days leading up to this year’s la fête des Amoureux (the Holiday of Lovebirds) were a riot of hues chez les fleuristes, les chocolatiers et les pâtissiers (in flower shops, chocolate shops and pastry shops). Even fabric designers and home decor shops got into the act. While la Saint Valentin is not as commercial as it is in the U.S.—the French get the same memo for an understated Christmas season as well—it is still festive and a great occasion for beautiful window displays and creative uses of red, pink and “love”.

Yes, it’s hip to use English for all sorts of “marketing” in France. In my Paris wanderings this Valentine’s season, I saw as much “love” as I did amour. Take a peek, see what you think, and enjoy the rouge, rose et amour French-style…

Ladurée awash in a parade of pinks…Mesdames et messieurs, get your chocolates and sweets here!

Fauchon near La Place de la Madeleine beckons with its “Electro-Choc” theme…

And the shop’s back wall screams real neon pink…

Switching to red, the coeurs (hearts) are heart-warming at Gérard Mulot…

Ah, the pink and red Ispahan pastry at Pierre Hermé. Note this delectable sweet is trademarked–no copying allowed!

I think this fabulous pink and red gâteau from Gosselin was my favorite eye-candy, although these non-edible hanging hearts (below) were stiff competition…

Pensée du jour (thought for the day): May every day be full of color–and hearts!

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It’s been a bit of a winter wonderland in Paris this week. As I landed at Charles de Gaulle airport, also known as Roissy, the surrounding fields were covered with la neige (snow). On the trip from Roissy into Paris, the snow was coming down so fast and thick that normally fearless French drivers slowed down to a crawl. Thankfully, both vehicles and pedestrians could still go about their business, and the léger manteau blanc (light coating of white) made Paris look festive and bright.

A snowy intersection on the Right Bank… 

The Banque de France surrounded by snow-dusted trees…

The Place Furstemberg on the Left Bank…

Footsteps in the snow by the church of St. Germain des Prés

Snow covered lions (above and below) at the entrance of the Jacquemart-André museum on the Boulevard Haussmann

Paris traded its wintry white clouds and snow for sun today. Sunglasses are in order for tomorrow as well, though it’s still pretty chilly. Note to self: keep those hats and gloves handy!

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I woke up this morning thinking about Provence…the bright sun, rich colors, intense flavors. As I am not sur place (there in person)—and also as an antidote to winter– I decided to give myself a taste of this special region of France and pull together a short visit via favorite images. Je vous invite à m’accompagner (come join me)…

In St. Rémy de Provence, these colorful baskets are just waiting for owners to nab them and go shopping at the lively Wednesday market…

Every market day, this berry vendor makes an art out of arranging her framboises (raspberries), mûres (blackberries), fraises (strawberries), and more. Though she was none too pleased when I took a photo of her wares and did not make a purchase. I told her the next time I was there with a kitchen available, I would make a tart with her fruits!

In the meantime, I can pick up a ready-made tarte aux framboises (raspberry tart) at Béchard in Aix-en-Provence. Béchard is a top-notch pâtisserie (pastry shop) in Aix and one of the primary purveyors of calissons (a regional specialty made with almonds and candied fruits).

The climate in Provence is so blessed that everything grows well, from all sorts of fruits to vegetables to flowers. And the olive–really a fruit–is a major player in this agricultural bonanza. I think this is my favorite olive vendor in all of Provence. There every Wednesday in St. Rémy, she has an amazing selection of cured olives and takes great care with her presentation…

When I pass by the vendor selling des oliviers (olive trees), I am tempted to buy a dozen and start an orchard. But olive trees are slow growing. It would take decades for them to mature and bear fruit.

But you can go to a pépinière (nursery) in the south of France and purchase 100-year old olive trees, no problem. In the village of Maussane near St. Rémy, I once saw a gardening team install a “decades old” olive orchard in one morning. C’était très impressionant (It was quite impressive)!

In addition to olives and olive oils, garlic and herbes de Provence are staples in Provençal cuisine. In fact, garlic is sometimems known as the “truffle of the South.”

Garlic, herbs and olive oil show up in all sorts of dishes including this luscious pizza from Chez Serge in Carpentras. (Pizza is not just for Italians!)

And one of my preferred dishes that combines the best of regional products is the salade Niçoise. Originally from Nice, you can find this lovely lunch option at many cafés. Les Deux Garçons in Aix-en-Provence has a version I particularly like…along with the requisite rosé wine.

For a tasty–and transportable–small Provence dessert, I drop by Joël Durand’s chocolate shop in St. Rémy and pick up a small box of his ‘alphabet chocolates.’ This talented chocolatier (chocolate chef), pictured here, has specialized in making artisan chocolates infused with local flavors, and each chocolate is known by a letter of the alphabet. My current choice is “L”…dark chocolate ganache with lavender essence. In the summer, he also has a lavender caramel enrobed in dark chocolate…hmmm…how to choose. The best part is that when you go in the shop, Monsieur Durand or one of his aimable associates will let you taste before you buy. Bonne dégustation (happy tasting)!

French Take-Out ~ La France  à emporter

When it comes to all there is to see, smell and taste in Provence, this post is just an “appetizer.” Come join us for more at our upcoming event “The Best of Provence / Gourmet Provence” on Sunday, February 7, at The Cultured Cup in Dallas, Texas. We’ll take a visual and tasting tour of the south of France and talk about what makes this region’s cuisine and culture special and unique. As an added treat, we’ll also enjoy a tasting of rare olive oils from the hills near Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. To register, contact us at 214-232-5344 or visit our web site.

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Wherever I am in France, I never pass up the chance to visit a garden. Even in winter, I find French landscapes and gardenscapes enchanting and intriguing on many levels.

The Sunday after Christmas, I set out to experience the gardens of the Manoir d’Eyrignac (Eyrignac Manor) which boasts of le plus beau jardin du Périgord, or the most beautiful garden in Périgord. Located in southwest France, Périgord is the land of truffles, foie gras, walnuts, prehistoric sites, medieval villages, cliff-top castles, and the Dordogne and Lot rivers. Although the privately held manor and its 18th century gardens are located on a back country road, numerous signs point the way to this verdant extravaganza near the picturesque town of Sarlat.

I had the Eyrignac gardens on my agenda as they are reknowned for some of the finest topiary art in Europe. Various shades of green are highlighted throughout the four seasons with the artfully trimmed bushes and trees. It takes a team five full time gardeners to maintain the various ‘outdoor rooms’ on the grounds.

Not a soul was at the Manoir d’Eyrignac when I arrived. Even the woman selling entrance tickets had to hike over from the business office to open up as she didn’t expect any visitors on this frosty, misty morning. I decided the 9,50 euros to get in was worth it to have the 4 hectare (10 acre) gardens to myself, cold or no cold.

The exquisite Jardin français lies in front of the manor house. It was originally designed to be best seen from the second floor of the dwelling. Since I don’t know the owners and couldn’t see it from the house (!), my view is from the gardens back towards manor. Still, I think this was my favorite ‘room’ of the gardens.

The gardens are accented by other buildings on the property. The anciennes écuries (former stables) are situated next to the spring fed pond which provided water for the horses once upon a time…

There is also the romanesque chapel which is still consecrated and where all the family members have been baptized… 

Another ‘outdoor room’ is the Allée des vases which is named for the Italian ceramic vases that line the grassy “path.” At this time of year, they are wrapped in black plastic to protect them and the plant roots from the cold. The tall evergreens lining the allée give a secret air to this part of the gardens.  

Next to the Allée des vases is a wide lawn with topiary bushes and fancy arabesques. I wonder if creating these shapes is a bit like painting or embroidering with plants??

In other parts of the gardens, Asian-inspired elements complement the classical French garden designs. Several red lacquer archways provide eye-catching perspective points in the rose garden…

And the red lacquer pagoda at the end of this trimmed garden path gives a touch of the exotic to les jardins. But the winter mist has toned down the red this particular morning…

Even though the weather was a bit nippy and damp, I loved my ‘private visit’ to the jardins d’Eyrignac. I found it hauntingly beautiful on this winter’s day…and I think I will be spoiled when I go back in warm weather and have to share it with other garden lovers. But of course, there is more than enough beauty to go around in this lovely spot in France. Just to be sure to mind the signs to stay off the grass!

The Jardins du manoir d’Eyrignac are open every day of the year. You can visit the web site for specific hours and directions: www.eyrignac.com.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

For a taste of 18th century French culture and garden aesthetics here in the States, plan to attend the upcoming lecture by professor Eric Haskell on January 13th in Dallas, Texas. Dr. Haskell will speak at SMU’s Meadows Museum of Art on “The Era of Elegance: French Culture in the 18th Century.” The lecture will begin at 6pm followed by a reception at 7pm. Tickets are $60 per person. This event is sponsored by the French Heritage Society’s Dallas Chapter. For reservations, patrons can call 214-363-9568.

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Christmas in France is decidedly uncommercial. To be sure, there are les illuminations de Noël (Christmas lights), shop windows decorated to the tune of the season, garlanding and wreaths, and festive edibles as only the French can do them.

Holiday lights on the Faubourg St. Honoré in Paris

But holiday decorations in France are understated and tasteful. They also keep to the real calendar season and don’t make an appearance until the beginning of December. Plus (and it’s a big plus in my book), the relentless TV advertising and make-a-buck atmosphere of the holidays in America are nowhere to be found.

If you’ve never visited France or Paris at holiday time, it is a wonderful gift in and of itself. There are far fewer tourists so it’s like experiencing France pour de vrai (for real). The Christmas lights give Paris a special glow. And just like the holidays in the U.S., there is a festive energy that appears at the end of the year.

Choosing a Christmas tree on the Left Bank in Paris

While I have spent much time in France in December and have celebrated many other important holidays en France, I have not been there on Christmas Day itself. This year, I plan to change that. I will celebrate Noël French style by going to midnight mass and enjoying un grand dîner de réveillon (a gourmet Christmas Eve dinner) in a glorious corner of France. Stay tuned for stories on this one!

In case France in not on your schedule for Christmas this year, here are a few more images and some French holiday words (with approximate pronunciations) to give a taste of the French holidays. Perhaps it might inspire you to give France a whirl at Christmas sometime soon. In the meantime, I send you warm holiday wishes, i.e. Bonnes fêtes!!

The Christmas market at St. Germain church in Paris 

 The big Christmas tree in front of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris

French Christmas cookies!

Joyeux Noël (Merry Christmas) = jwa-yuh no-elle

Le Père Noël (Santa Claus or Father Christmas) = luh pair no-elle

La messe de Noël (Christmas mass) = lah mess duh no-elle

Un sapin de Noël (Christmas tree) = uhn sah-pinh duh no-elle

Une bûche de Noël (Yule log dessert) = oon boosh duh no-elle

Un bonhomme de neige (snowman) = uhn buh nohm duh nehje

Bonne année (Happy New Year) = buh nah-nay

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There are some things that are found only in France: the Tour de France bicycle race each summer, the Meilleure Baguette de Paris (Best Baguette in Paris) contest every March, fairytale châteaux by the hundreds, les villages perchés (hilltop villages) of Provence, transportation strikes when people need the Métro and trains most—i.e., at vacation time, le muguet (lilies of the valley) to celebrate May 1, over 400 varieties of fromage (cheese). The list could go on and on. The point is that while many of France’s riches are exportable, there are many that are not.

One of my favorite French treats does not often make it beyond its point of origin in the south of France. Part of the reason is its seasonality and the fact that it does not conserve well. This humble product is the olives cassées (cracked green olives) from la Vallée des Baux de Provence.

What are les olives cassées? They are the salonenque variety of olive that is very typical of the Les Baux valley. It is picked in late September or early October. (Olives destined to make the exquisite French olive oil are not harvested until late November or the beginning of December.) The early olives are cracked with a hammer to release their bitterness and then treated in a salt brine flavored with fenouil sauvage (wild fennel) and occasionally other herbs.

It might sound strange to wax poetic about a simple olive dish but once you have tasted the cracked olives from Les Baux, you will know what I mean. They have a nutty yet fruity olive flavor that is quite different from regular cured olives. In short, it is like tasting the fragrant hills of southern France. At previous French Affaires gourmet events where we have tried these delectable olives, those who don’t normally like any type of olive found them to be outstanding.

During what I call the ‘cracked olive season’ from roughly September to January, many southern French restaurants will serve the olives with your apéritif. You also can find them already prepared at local outdoor markets or occasionally in sealed jars in gourmet food shops. When I want to take the real thing to the U.S.–and successfully pass the customs inspectors, I look for jars of olives cassées made by Raymond Gonfond near Maussane-les-Alpilles. They prepare the cracked olives according to artisanal methods using the best olives from the region.

And if you want to make your own olives cassées, you can find the uncured salonenque olives at local markets. I noticed several vendors in October selling the bright green fruit. Note to self: Do not eat the uncured olives raw. They are mind-numbingly bitter!

Whether you purchase the olives ready-made or make your own in France, be sure to use a wooden or plastic spoon when transporting them to a serving dish. Contact with metal will cause the salt brine to turn an unattractive brown. You will see olive vendors at open-air markets always stick to wood or plastic when dishing up their wares.

The next time you are in the south of France during the fall or early winter, look for this unique Provençal treat—and toast one of the many wonders of France.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

Our French Affaires Weekly web postings are now in blog format–that is to say, we post and you can respond. Feel free to comment on that week’s topic, share your experiences, ask questions…In short, we invite you to be an active part of the French Affaires community and enjoy France from wherever you are based. Bienvenue (welcome)!

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The French love the earth. This passion takes various forms. For many French, having a garden is de rigueur (a must). Whether a large potager (vegetable garden) in the country or a few herbs in pots on the apartment balcony in Paris, a bit of dirt in which to make things grow is a link to the land.

The earth and the French meal experience are also tightly linked. The notion of terroir, which roughly translates as ‘taste of the earth’, means that food and wine taste of where they are grown and produced. French people know this well and appreciate the nuances of flavor and aroma that speak to the richness and variety of French soils and terrains. Restaurant menus often describe where a main ingredient is grown or raised as part of the dish.

Moreover, the French have an innate love of la campagne (the countryside) and spend good chunks of time out in nature. Walking in rural areas is a favorite pastime and in the fall, mushroom hunting inevitably becomes part of the outdoor, earthy fun. The French are proud of their ability to seek out mushrooms and distinguish good ones from those that are poisonous. But when in doubt, local pharmacies can verify which mushrooms are ‘keepers’.

If you are just passing through France and can’t get out to the country for a good mushroom hunt yourself, then I highly recommend a visit to the local market during mushroom season. You’ll see an astounding variety of fungi–and a multitude of customers lined up trying to buy the best of that day’s ‘catch’.  A couple of weeks ago, I was fascinated by this vendor in Aix-en-Provence who was selling the usual suspects such as cèpes and girolles, as well as many mushrooms I had never heard of…

You can also find restaurant chefs taking advantage of the seasonal riches with mushroom dishes featured prominently on menus. Earlier this month, I enjoyed grilled artichokes, onions and mushrooms at Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris, as well as a lovely mushroom tart at an outdoor lunch near St. Rémy-de-Provence.

Currently, I am back in the States and starting my own ‘mushroom hunt’ to see what’s available at the supermarket to this home chef. And dreaming of the embarras du choix of mushrooms in France.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

An easy way to enjoy the maximum flavor of wild or domestic mushrooms is to sauté them in a bit olive oil and butter. The fricassée of mushrooms is great with meat dishes or folded into omelets. Patricia Wells has a wonderful recipe in her cookbook Simply French: Patricia Wells Presents the Cuisine of Joel Robuchon. Ina Garten also takes advantage of the fall specialty in her cookbook Barefoot in Paris: Easy French Food You Can Make at Home. Enjoy the mushroom season!

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When our French Affaires travel group boarded the plane in Dallas a couple of weeks ago en route to Paris and Provence, we saw local fashion directors and buyers dressed to the nines. We quickly realized they were on their way to la Fashion Week in la Capitale (Paris). Leather riding-type boots worn on top of skinny pants or jeans was the fashion ensemble du jour.

We didn’t think much more about Paris Fashion Week 2009 until a Sunday post-lunch stroll along the Champs-Elysées. We had been admiring the beautiful gardens along the grand boulevard when we came across larger than life covers of French Vogue magazine lining both sides of the trottoir (sidewalk). Suddenly we were immersed in the best of French fashion–without wrangling for a single ticket to this year’s fashion shows.

It turned out we had discovered a short-term outdoor exhibition called “Vogue Covers” designed to relive 90 years of women’s history as seen by this ‘Bible’ of fashion. Running from October 1 to November 1, the show includes covers from 1920 to the present representing the best models, fashion designers, photographers, artists and illustrators. Of course, French actress and model Catherine Deneuve makes multiple appearances.

Paris is always full of wonderful surprises, and this is one of the best I’ve come across lately. There are still a few more days to see “Vogue Covers” in person. Or you can get a feel for it in the visual tour below. Vive la mode à la française (long live fashion French style)!

Translation: The French edition of Vogue was first published in 1920 and has never missed an issue except during the Occupation when the magazine refused to work under German supervision. Nearly 90 years of publication, represented here by some of the most striking covers, express certain sides of French history—its taste, its fashion and aesthetic trends—but also illustrate the magazine’s constant focus on quality.   

 French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter™

To get French fashion direct chez vous, you can subscribe to the Paris edition of Vogue magazine and other France-based publications via Express Mag. Express Mag handles U.S. subscriptions for a variety of international publications, including the French versions of Vogue and Elle. Click here to get French Vogue without ever having to leave home. 

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