Elizabeth's Blog

Paris is one of those towns that wears its fashion heart on its sleeve. A good sit in a central Paris café or a nice stroll by a few tony shop windows will show you the hot new trends in a red-hot minute. All you have to do is keep your eyes open and take some mental notes….and then put your shopping list together.

As I buzzed around Paris this spring, I noticed that pink and orange are très tendance (all the rage). From hats and scarves to clothes and shoes, pink and orange are the must-have colors for summer. I snapped a bunch of photos as I walked down the Left Bank’s rue de Grenelle recently. I must say the bright couleurs were a welcome relief to everyone after the gray skies of winter.

This French hat and scarf combo was a dream. Not sure I’d wear the hat myself, but the pink silk chiffon scarf looked so French and feminine. It was almost like cotton candy for the neck. And I think the Parisian salesperson who put together the display should win a scarf-tying award.

The same boutique was awash in pink clothes too. Lace and fringe on the same dress - who said the French don’t go over the top? But it totally works in Paris.

Just a few steps away from the pink shop windows, it was orange central. The chic Chacok boutique was awash in the fashionable color. One of the great things about French separates is that you can dress them up or down – French women let their mood be their guide.

This look was notable not so much for the outfit as for the mannequin’s pose. Chest held high and hips thrust out – it was a French woman in mannequin form. In all honesty, I have yet to see a non-French woman able to swish down the street like a female from France. It must be in their genes.

Nearby, another boutique featured orange too – it was the sleeved or sleeveless look in a terrific textured fabric.

If these photos have whet your appetite for French fashion, you might be wondering where are the best places to shop in Paris? Here is a short guide to finding the most stylish fashions the city has to offer:

Department Stores – When you have limited time in Paris, department stores are the way to see – or buy – a lot in a hurry. You have everything from high fashion to everyday wear to purses to scarves to jewelry all in one place. Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on the Boulevard Haussmann on the Right Bank offer multiple floors worth hours of shopping entertainment. On the Left Bank, Le Bon Marché is a small-ish, chic department store near the Sèvres-Babylone metro stop. Not to be forgotten is BHV, or the Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville, the department store near Paris’s town hall east of the Louvre. Most well known to Parisians for its hardware department, BHV is making an effort to become more hip. I recently took a spin through the clothing departments and saw some fun fashions and current casual designers there.

Shopping Areas on the Right Bank – For an array of French designer and upscale boutiques, you’ll want to head to the St. Honoré neighborhood. So St. Honoré is a street that has two parts. When you stand at the intersection of Rue Royale and St. Honoré, you’ll have the Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré going off towards the west and the Rue St. Honoré to the east. The Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré is home to the likes of Chanel, Lanvin and of course, the flagship Hermès store. (Note on pronouncing the famous scarf and leathergoods maker Hermès: It sounds like ‘air-mess’ with a French accent!) The Rue St. Honoré includes a large Longchamp boutique, Goyard, Colette and a variety of other interesting shops.

For le top du top of French fashion, Paris’s ‘Golden Triangle’ is where the finest haute couture houses are located. Le Triangle d’or is the area around the Avenue Montaigne, Avenue George V and Avneue François Ier. You’ll find Givenchy, Dior, Nina Ricci, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Pucci, and more. Even if the stratospheric prices are not in your budget, the elegant shop windows are worth a look.

Shopping Areas on the Left Bank – There are many wonderful boutiques located around the other ‘shopping triangle’ of Paris, this one on the Left Bank. You’ll want to wander in and around the triangle formed by the Boulevard St. Germain, Boulevard Raspail and the Rue de Sèvres/Rue de Rennes. Small not-to-miss streets include the rue de Grenelle, rue des Saints-Pères, rue du Dragon, rue du Bac, rue Bonaparte and the rue du Cherche-Midi. One of my favorite stops in the neighborhood is the Italian shoemaker Lario at 56, rue du Four. In fact, there are about 10 or 12 great shoe shops located within one to two blocks of Lario. If you need to get a ‘red soles’ fix at Christian Louboutin, he’s got a boutique here in the rue de Grenelle. Though the last time I passed by, it was a Saturday afternoon and the Louboutin store was so mobbed that there was a line outside to get in. The salespeople would only let new customers in when those who finished shopping went out. Go figure!

Of course, there are many other places to shop in Paris although I find that the ones mentioned above give you the most to look at in concentrated central areas of the city. You’ll want to make a note that most Paris shops are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 7pm. Major sales in France take place twice a year starting in late January and early July and lasting for two to three weeks. And ‘boutique’ in French is pronounced boo-teek!

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Pastry shops in Paris have always been a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds. But there are some important differences between the pastry shops of then and the pastry shops of now. In the past, you walked in and saw all those rows of classic French desserts standing at perfect attention. Typically, the same pâtisseries appeared at shop after shop – éclairs, millefeuilles, opéras, palmiers, tartes au citron, tartes aux fraises, financiers, macarons. What varied was the quality of flavors and ingredients. In some ways, it was reassuring to know that a Paris pastry shop was a Paris pastry shop was a Paris pastry shop. But somewhere in the last several years, pastry shops in Paris changed – they became a hotbed of hipness.

Take French almond macarons for example. Once upon a time, they were just great little almond cookies. And yes, in Paris, you knew that Ladurée was one of the best sources for them – especially for favorite flavors like chocolate or coffee. But the macaron craze hit, and Paris (and then the rest of the world) became obsessed with the sugary treat. Various pastry shops began competing to create the hippest, most chic macarons on the planet. Now you find exotic flavors like passion fruit-basil, mango-coriander and even grapefruit-wasabi. I kid you not.

The almond macaron case at Gérard Mulot in the 6th arrondissement – the coconut macaron is to die for!

Human and media attention spans being what they are, it was only a matter of time before hip pastry designers moved on from macarons and set their sights on other trend-worthy sweets. The millefeuille, or Napoleon, has been getting the spotlight of late. Similarly, the Paris-Brest has emerged from pastry-case oblivion to become a darling of French pastry chefs.

If you’re not familiar, the Paris-Brest is a circle of choux pastry filled with praline flavored cream made to look like a bicycle wheel. It supposedly was created in 1891 to commemorate the first Paris-Brest-Paris bicycle race, a 1200-kilometer competition that goes from Paris to Brest in Brittany and back again. I have never thought much about that particular pâtisserie but recently, I found myself conducting an informal taste-test at Paris restaurants and pastry shops.

After a dinner one night at the Bistrot Paul Bert in the Marais, I chose the homemade Paris-Brest for dessert. It was énorme – I couldn’t quite finish the whole thing. But the praline cream was so good, I gave it my best effort. Then I hit several pastry shops and found myself really starting to take notice of this French treat.

Which brings me to the Paris-Brest at La Pâtisserie des Rêves (LPDR). For ages, I avoided going into this over-the-top hip pastry boutique in the rue du Bac. The futuristic decor – think French pastry shop meets the Jetsons – had totally put me off. But ever since the French newspaper Le Figaro had voted LPDR’s Paris-Brest as the best in Paris in 2010, I knew I’d have to try it.

So I walked into the LPDR pastry shop on a recent afternoon trying to appreciate the high glass domes over the featured pastries – there were no traditional pastry cases here. I made straight for the Paris-Brest and asked the mod young man for an individual one (you can also order a large version to serve several people). Wearing an earphone and a mike, he quickly passed the order along to an unseen colleague in the back who packed my Paris-Brest into one of LPDR’s signature melon-pink pyramid boxes – like a darling paper purse, I thought – and brought it out to the front. At over 5 euros, it’s not une bonne affaire (a bargain) but I was determined to see what the hype was all about.

After getting it home, I tasted several bites and immediately conceded that this Paris-Brest was in every way DIVINE. The choux pastry and praline cream were absolutely perfect. And the creative touches by LPDR’s pastry chef Philippe Conticini showed real genius in the reinvention of this classic: the circular choux pastry breaks off into round cream-puff-type bites making it super easy to eat. In addition, the praline cream includes a touch of chocolate for flavor and richness. Finally, the praline cream in each ‘round’ also has a bit of a liquid praline center for a surprise taste and texture.

As a follow up, I did a bit of research on what the French would drink with a dessert like this one. Several wine experts recommended a glass of Sauternes with it. Of course, the heavenly French dessert wine with the divine Paris-Brest.

Next time you’re in Paris, be sure and stop by one of LPDR’s two boutiques to taste this fabulous French pastry concoction. They’re open every day but Mondays. And the shop in the 16th arrondissement includes a salon de thé so you can enjoy your sweet snacks on site. Meanwhile, I’ll be scanning the horizon for the next Paris pastries to become the hip new thing!

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There’s lots of gold in Paris – this should be no surprise as luxe and grandeur have been the motto for French rulers and presidents throughout the city’s history. As the French and Europeans figured out long ago, nothing says wealth and power quite so well and quite so publicly as gold. And once you start become a chercheur d’or (goldseeker) in Paris, you start to see gilt and glitter everywhere.

Some eye-popping examples include the angels on top of the Palais Garnier, the dome of Les Invalides, the golden gates of the Parc Monceau, the Pont Alexandre III, and even the decorative touches at the Place Vendôme.

French culinary gurus can’t be left out of the gold fest either. Paris pastry purveyor Dalloyau routinely decorates its confections with edible gold. Note this luscious chocolate and raspberry gâteau topped with gold bits.

Dalloyau’s Easter candy this year took a decidedly sparkling turn with its large chocolate eggs laden with edible gold leaf. Not sure how the beehive design relates to Easter eggs…? But the chocolate and gold eggs sported a clever name: “Or série” (Gold Series) which also sounds like the French expression “Hors série”, meaning ‘special edition’ or ‘custom made.’

Last month, our Paris Antiques Trip group was treated to a gold spectacular at the exquisite Musée Jacquemart-André. The museum is in the midst of renovating its Tapestry Room, in particular the floor-to-ceiling gilded molding. The Salon des Tapisseries was a fascinating study in golden renewal.

As we walked through on our way to the east wing of the mansion, French artisans were applying thin sheets of gold leaf to the decorative woodwork. The two-by-two layers were lightly dusted onto the wood with a bristle brush. This technique allowed the gold to settle gently into the molding’s cracks and crevices. First, however, the artisans had painted the woodwork with a deep red varnish which presumably allows the gold to take on a deep richness once it’s applied.

Once the gold was placed over the red varnish, it had a fluffy almost wispy look. Then it was tamped down and sealed into place making it (mostly) impervious to knicks and scratches.

Here is a great view of the finished gilt (upper left), the gold leaf in progress (lower left) and the red preparatory varnish (upper right).

As one might imagine, the gilding process was a bit messy. There were flecks of gold and gold dust everywhere – it also stuck to the faces and outfits of the artisans. As we left, some even found its way onto our shoes. All in all, it was quite a gold rush – an unforgettable and intimate glimpse of gold in Paris.

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A little over a week ago, winter made a roaring comeback in Paris – just before the official start of spring. The snow, la neige, started falling late Monday night and big flakes kept coming the entire next day. When I ventured out Tuesday morning to go to a meeting, Paris buses were still running but by afternoon hardly a vehicle was out on the streets. It was beautifully festive – everyone in cafés was greeting each other with “Joyeux Noël!” and “Bonne fin de l’année!” as if it were December - yet the city had that lovely ’muffled snow quiet’ quality at the same time. On my way to the Right Bank, I happened to pass by Notre Dame cathedral which had just started to collect a coat of white.

And the Pont de l’Archevêché just behind Notre Dame looked like its railings might teeter over under the weight of both the love locks and the snow!

All told, Paris got a hefty 3 inches of snow in the center of the city, more on the western side and in the northern suburbs. I went to dinner at some French friends’ apartment in the 16th arrondissement Tuesday night and waded through 5 inches or so of the white stuff on the way home. That was nothing compared to Normandy where a couple of feet of snow ground everything to a halt. Still, on Wednesday, there was a nice blanket of snow on French cars and motorbikes up and down Paris streets.

While stomping around Paris in the snowstorm was fun enough, I think my favorite part of it was coming upon this artist painting en plein air – in the middle of snowflakes and very cold air. However, he was so intent on capturing the view of this narrow Left Bank street that he seemed to hardly notice the weather.

I watched him work for a bit wondering if flakes of snow were mixing in with his paint. When you look closely at his canvas and at the actual scene below, he seemed to be putting the real essence of the setting into his tableau. But I am sure when he looks back on creating this work of art, he will not be able to forget le challenge of winter painting on March 12, 2013.

If you’ve never experienced Paris in the snow, it’s definitely something to shoot for. In an instant, the whole city feels like a party is happening, almost as if it were Christmas. And Paris seems to do her best to please even in crazy weather – you’ll never know what you’ll see or experience. Being there at such a moment might even inspire you to leave a Paris love note as some adoring fan did…Paris, je t’aime! 

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In our last article, we saw the Seine at its most pleasurable. This week, we take a look at the river’s more tumultuous and even dangerous side. It might be easy to imagine that the Seine flows peacefully along day in and day out, year in and year out. Not so. The river possesses a history of severe flooding which devastated the city and the population over and over again throughout the centuries.

Flooding in 1910 forced the construction of temporary wooden sidewalks in front of Les Invalides 

Between the 6th and 20th centuries, Paris and the Seine basin experienced no fewer than 65 severe floods. How did the city measure the deluges? The oldest benchmark is located on the Pont de la Tournelle in the 5th arrondissement where the level 0 corresponds to the lowest level of the Seine in 1719. Here is a list of the most disastrous overflows of the Seine and how many meters the waters rose during those times:

The last large flood occurred in 1910 when the Seine overflowed its banks by 8.5 meters, or by more than 20 feet. During the late 1800’s, engineers in Paris put in place the Paris sewer system as well as a distribution system for drinking water. They also installed a network of drains and surveillance mechanisms in anticipation of future floods of the Seine. However, they only planned for inundations reaching the level of the last big flood of 1876 which topped off at 6.5 meters.

It wasn’t long before the French engineers’ efforts were put to the test. The summer of 1909 was particularly rainy in the Paris region. To make things worse, the following winter saw heavy rain and snow which saturated the soil and caused the Seine to surge upstream. Then, on January 18, 1910, torrential rains began falling all over Europe. Word of the Seine’s rising waters started to appear in the newspapers. Most Parisians shrugged off the overflow as typical of the winter season. But there were signs that it was not the winter river as usual. The waters of the Seine were moving much faster than normal. River traffic disappeared since navigating the Seine was close to impossible. Then debris of all sorts including large trees, wooden boards, beams, barrels and more came rushing downstream destroying bridge supports and anchored boats in their way.

By January 22, the saturated earth and runoff from city streets meant that the water started flooding the city from below. Paris basements filled with water which came through drainpipes and even seeped through cellar walls. Manholes and sewer grates turned into fountains as waters surged up from underground. In addition, many Métro stations filled with water and had to be closed. The Gare d’Orsay’s electric train tracks were completed submerged. Streets became rivers themselves and squares turned into small lakes. Of course, some water overflowed the Seine’s banks itself but it is ironic to note that a good part of the flooding came from below ground. By January 26, boats were necessary to get around the capital. According to author Jeffrey Jackson who wrote Paris Under Water, a detailed account of the Paris flood of 1910, “northern France had experienced the ‘perfect storm’ of events that led to the drowning not just of Paris, but of the entire region.”

The Gare St. Lazare neighborhood had turned into a lake

Paris was a complete diaster. Not only did the flooding make normal life close to impossible with transport, communication, power and food supply issues, but also the receding waters brought in a host of new problems including filth, rotting floors and furniture, disease and more. Fortunately, the City of Paris, the French government, the Catholic Church, the Red Cross, responsible citizens and others came together to get through the calamitous event.

Today, you can still see markers where the flood waters reached in various corners of Paris. For years, I passed by this beautiful doorway near the Musée d’Orsay without really paying attention to it. Crue in French is another word for ‘flood’ or inondation. Here are some passersby who have stopped to look and take photos of these flood reminders.

While San Marco’s Square in Venice regularly floods to this day, Paris thankfully is spared that kind of disruption. In the years that followed the 1910 flood up until today, engineers have rethought the city’s foundations and hopefully prepared for future inondations de la Seine. Since then no floods like the one of 1910 have occurred again; however, the City of Paris still has to close lower river quays from time to time when the waters rise slightly in the winter.

The next time you’re in Paris, take a few pics of this pretty French waterway, enjoy a ride on the Bateaux Mouches, use the Batobus water transport (thank you to French Affaires’ reader Jane who wrote in to say that she and her husband skip the Metro in favor of this easy city navigation route!), and keep your eyes open for markers of the great flood. It’s a piece of Paris history worth knowing about.

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

If you are interested in more history on the most recent Paris flood, you might want to pick up a copy of Paris Under Water: How the City of Light Survived the Great Flood of 1910 by Jeffrey H. Jackson. It’s a fairly short read at about 220 pages (you might want to skip the philosophizing epilogue which doesn’t add much to the historical account). You’ll never think about Paris and the Seine the same way again!

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What would Paris be without the Seine? The picturesque waterway has been a great geographic, economic, social and artistic force since the city’s earliest days, long before the Bateaux mouches and Paris Plages showed up. Its peaceful waters reflect some of the most prestigious architecture in Paris, including the Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Institut de France, Grand Palais, Petit Palais and Notre Dame cathedral.

Paris has 37 bridges that cross la Seine (pronounced “la sehn”), three of which are pedestrian only and two are rail bridges. The oldest bridge is the Pont Neuf which translates ironically as the “New Bridge.” My favorite pont for years has been the pedestrian Pont des Arts. It links the gorgeous Institut de France on the Left Bank with the impressive Palais du Louvre on the Right Bank.

Speaking of banks, I often get the question about how the Paris banks became designated the ‘Right’ and the ‘Left.’ The answer takes us to the origins of the Seine. The 777 kilometer river extends from the Plateau de Langres in Burgundy all the way to la Manche (the English Channel), passing through Paris and Rouen in Normandy along the way. As the Seine traverses Paris flowing west, you will find the Rive gauche (Left Bank) on the south/left side when you face downstream and the Rive droite (Right Bank) on the north side, i.e. on your right. The late fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent immortalized the expression Rive gauche with his brand and fragrances of the same name.

Another Seine designation worth mentioning also involves the river’s banks. The two sides of the Seine have been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in honor of the spectacular urban evolution visible there. According to UNESCO, the Paris setting of the Seine “constitutes a remarkable example of urban riverside architecture, where the strata of history are harmoniously superposed.”

Today, the Seine’s entertainment factor in Paris is completely assured. You can take your pick from a myriad of activities: browsing the bookstalls of les bouquinistes, taking a boat ride on the Bateaux Mouches, enjoying the sun and sand of the Paris Plages (Paris beaches) in summer, walking with your sweetheart along the water day or night, and biking and rollerblading on the weekends. In fact, the city of Paris has gotten so serious about riverside fun that it regularly closes off some of the roads along the water to cars on Saturdays and Sundays. Check out this cycling group taking advantage of the car-free thoroughfares.

And for those desiring a floating domicile in the City of Light, a French houseboat or péniche is the way to go. Did you realize there is a whole community of people living on the water in Paris?

But if we think the Seine is entertainment central now, just wait until the new urban project Les Berges de Seine is finished this year. Efforts have been afoot by the City of Paris to transform the quays and riverside roads into floating gardens, promenades, cultural centers, and leisure spaces. There are creative ideas for art exhibitions on floating péniches and lunchtime activities on Wednesdays and Sundays for young and old alike. A quai-side restaurant is even part of the plan. So the next time you are in Paris, be sure to put exploring the Seine’s new look on your to-do list. It will be a Paris ‘Seine-sation’ beyond your wildest dreams!

Illustration courtesy of the Mairie de Paris

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

For a preview of the new berges de Paris, you can take a tour courtesy of the City of Paris. Click here for illustrations of the various facets of the project.

Of course as is usually the case in France, the riverfront extravaganza has not been without controversy. Several urban groups opposed the plan since it reduces car access on central Paris roads. And the 40 million euro price tag surely made others pause in these days of cost-cutting and austerity in Europe. Still, beauty often trumps all in France – that’s why many of us like it, after all! – and the project will be completed within the next few months. I can’t wait to enjoy this new ‘park’ in the heart of Paris – and see how it folds in to the interesting daily life of the city.

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As the world knows, France is an eternal food fest, and there is no more festive place to be this week than at the Paris Cookbook Fair, or Festival du Livre Culinaire. The February 22 to 24 event spotlights the latest in cookbooks, culinary efforts and food trends from across the globe. Edouard Cointreau Sr. of liqueur fame is president of Gourmand International, the host and sponsor of the fair.

This year’s festival is being held in the heart of Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre, the shopping mall and conference space located underneath the Louvre Museum. The Carrousel du Louvre’s main entrance is at 99, rue de Rivoli right near the entrance to Paris’s Decorative Arts Museum. When you go down the escalator towards the inverted pyramid by I.M. Pei, you’ll find the underground entrance to the Louvre Museum on the left and Paris Cookbook Fair on the right, just after the La Maison du Chocolat boutique.

Open to professionals and the public alike, the Paris Cookbook Fair will feature exhibitions by more than 200 cookbook publishers, talks and lectures by leading figures in the industry, chef demonstrations, food and wine tastings, author signings, culinary art and photography, professional meetings, and more. The festival’s splash event is the the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards held in the Carrousel du Louvre’s 1400-seat amphitheatre.

More than 171 countries are entered in this year’s Gourmand Cookbook Awards competition highlighting the fact that food is THE hot thing in every corner of the globe. And each year, one cookbook is given the Hall of Fame award which honors a work having a major impact on the cookbook industry. Last year, Anne Willan, one of the world’s foremost authorities on French cuisine, and her husband Mark Cherniavsky received the 2012 award for their groundbreaking book The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes that Made the Modern Cookbook. This year, they are the U.S. guests of honor at the festival.

I have been perusing the festival’s program and have found lots of great sessions to attend. Friday at 10am is the Welcome speech by Edouard Cointreau followed by an hour-long talk by Anne Willan at 11am. Later that day, Guy Savoy, the famous French restauranteur and Michelin-starred chef, will be speaking and all manner of chef’s demos and tastings will be taking place. On Saturday, I think I’d pass on the cupcake demo by American chef Alisa Morov – cupcakes are now everywhere! – in favor of sessions on global cookbook trends, a new book on French wine-making, and a chef’s demo by the Paris Ritz chef Michel Roth. Sunday features more cuisine, wine and cookbook industry sessions again with food personalities from France, Europe, Asia, Latin America and more.

Tickets to the event are 35 euros for one day and a three-day pass costs 60 euros. For additional information on the festival, please click here. And if you are a cookbook lover and are in Paris this week, you won’t want to miss this extravaganza of the latest in cookbooks, chefs and cuisines from around the globe. Bon appétit!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

This year’s French Affaires’ French Cookbook Club hosts its own ‘cookbook fair’ of sorts as we celebrate British-American food writer and cooking instructor Anne Willan. Anne is one of the world’s foremost authorities on French cooking and has written more than 30 books and cookbooks. She founded La Varenne Cooking School in Paris in 1975, one of the first professional cooking schools in France to offer simultaneous instruction in French and English and accredited, professional culinary degrees. After several years, she moved La Varenne to her 17th century château in Burgundy where it continued to offer high-caliber French culinary instruction until 2007. Today, Anne and her husband live in California where she writes books and hosts culinary events.

Our 2013 French Cookbook Club gatherings in Dallas will start with Anne’s earlier cookbooks and culminate in her masterpiece The Country Cooking of France along her new memoir One Soufflé at a Time to be published later this year. And we are thrilled to announce that Anne will attend our final French Cookbook Club gathering of the year – it will be a fabulous evening of delicious French food and conversation with this lovely grande dame of French cuisine!

For more details on this ‘year of Anne Willan,’ please click here. You can also click here for a recent French Affaires’ interview with Anne.

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French gardens have a spirit and a presence all their own. I have walked and wandered in dozens of French jardins over the years – in the ‘biggies’ such as Versailles, Fontainebleau, Vaux-le-Vicomte, Chantilly, St. Germain-en-Laye, Sceaux, St. Cloud, and the Tuileries, and in smaller ones cradling manor houses and petits châteaux in various corners of France. And the regal yet neighborhoody jardins du Luxembourg in Paris is still my favorite for a daily jog in Paris.

The magnificent gardens of Versailles

To this day, entering a French garden takes my breath away. It is a visceral as well as an emotional experience. There is a moment of awe and surprise – surprise at the arresting beauty…and also surprise that human beings have mastered a natural space so eloquently – followed by a deep sense of plaisir (pleasure), paix (peace) and bien-être (well-being).

I’ve often asked myself what it is that makes French gardens so captivating. At first glance, one could say it’s quality of the light and climate that makes these green spaces worlds unto their own. But truth be told, the pleasure of French gardens has much to do with their flawless grasp of space, symmetry and harmony. The French perfected these aspects of French garden design in the 17th and 18th centuries when the royals and other nobility laid out spectacular formal gardens around their châteaux. The French use of perspective and order provides a superb foundation for additional decorative elements that, once they’re there, seem to have always been destined for that particular place in nature.

Many of these principles of French garden design have survived and flourished over time resulting in a ‘language of French gardens’ that is alive and well. Before you next visit a French jardin, you might want to familiarize yourself with these garden terms and then see how they play out in various garden locations in France:

Allée – A straight path, or alley, often lined with trimmed trees for an architectural effect. Allées typically accentuate the lines of perspective radiating from the house or château and leading off into the horizon.  This is one of my most favorite parts of French gardens.

Our French Affaires’ travel group exploring the Gardens of Villandry last fall

Banc – French gardens provide places to stop and savor the moment. Benches, or bancs, are often the focal point of ‘outdoor garden rooms’ and offer a peaceful resting spot amidst nature.

Bassin ­– Water is essential in French garden design. A bassin (pond) acts as a mirror to the sky, adding a shimmering effect to surrounding greenery and reflecting the nearby château.

Bosquet – A small ‘wood’ or group of trees usually set some distance from the house or main building.

Broderie ­– Meaning ‘embroidery’ in French, broderie indicates a curlicue pattern within a parterre often created out of boxwood or yew bushes.

Escalier - Stairs lead from various garden levels to another. Some French garden designers also create ’stairs’ of water out of canals and fountains to add further depth to the garden experience.

Orangerie – Since the time of Louis XIV, French formal gardens have included exotic plants from various locales, in particular orange trees. To help them survive the winter, they were placed in an orangerie, or serre (greenhouse), and kept warm until spring.

The orangerie at the Luxembourg Gardens in Paris

Parterre – A square or rectangular planting bed containing ornamental designs of flowers, bushes, green lawn, and/or gravel. Elaborate parterres often include scrollwork, various geometric shapes or fanciful designs to enchant the eye.

A view over the various parterres at the Gardens of Villandry

Pelouse – French gardens include simple manicured green lawns juxtaposed against more decorative elements for a balanced and calming effect. Note that it is often interdit (forbidden) to walk on tender French lawns as it might spoil their beauty – a small sign at ground level indicates this.

Potager – A French vegetable garden is known as a ‘potager.’ This is different from a jardin, jardin de fleurs or jardin d’agrément (ornamental garden) where flowers, trees and other plants take center stage.

Sculpture – French gardens are adorned with pieces of sculpture, often with roots in mythology, to entertain the eye and/or mark important places or pathways within the garden. This bird is certainly entertained as he sits on the mythological god’s head.

Terrasse – Terraces are incorporated into classical French gardens as places to take in the beauties of the entire garden, especially the parterres, at one glance. They are also perfect for taking photos…

Topiaire – The French love to combine their artistic talents with their desire for order by pruning yew trees into fantastic shapes. As a result, their topiary achievements are second to none in the gardening world. All French formal gardens contain topiaries of some sort, inspiring awe and wonder at how these creations come into being – and at how they are maintained!

French Take-Out ~ La France à emporter

A final French garden expression of note is ‘jardin remarquable,’ or Noteworthy Garden. The French have awarded this distinction to 361 special French gardens located throughout France. They are well worth a visit – our French Affaires’ trip to the "Great Chateaux & Gardens of the Loire Valley & Paris" features several jardins remarquables, including Villandry, Rivau, Valmer, Versailles among others. 

There are a few spots still open on this remarkable journey – don’t miss this personal and inside view of garden delights, memorable châteaux, gourmet meals with wine and much more. Click here for trip dates, details and photos. Come join us at the height of French garden beauty in June!

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When traveling in a different culture, sometimes it’s the little things one doesn’t know that end up being the most surprising…and occasionally unnerving. In France, driving tends to be a breeze since the French conduisent (drive) on the right as we do, but there other situations or characteristics of French life that can be the opposite of American culture. I have pulled together a short list of these small cultural pièges (traps) that can make or break your time in France. Or simply knowing about them can make you more comfortable in the French environment. Read on to make sure you’re super savvy about these aspects of la culture française.

New Year’s cards – The French prefer to send New Year’s cards over Christmas cards. They like to wish their friends and family members bonne année et bonne santé (happy new year and good health) each year. So if you didn’t get a Christmas card from your French friends, not to worry. Hopefully that New Year’s card is on the way!

Numbers – You may have noticed that the French generally use commas rather than decimal points in their numbers. For example, when you see prices on restaurant menus, shop items and market goods, the ‘cents’ will be what follows the comma. This French bistro menu has les escargots at 7,50 euros for a half dozen or 11,50 euros for a dozen – garlic butter included!

Also worth noting when you get to big numbers in the thousands and millions, the French indicate this with spaces while we use commas. In France, two million or 2,000,000 would be written as 2 000 000.

One other note, the French tend to cross their sevens so as to distinguish them from the number one. These big bouquets of luscious ranunculus were selling for 7,60 euros each.

Phone Numbers – In France, French phone numbers have 10 digits. The ‘area code’ consists of the first two numbers and the number pairs can be set off by periods or spaces. The French often write and say the numbers in groups of two, whereas Americans reel off their numbers in groups of 3, 3 and 4 – the area code, then the two parts of the 7-digit number. This sign at the legendary Château Margaux in the Bordeaux region indicates that tours of the winery are available by appointment only with the contact phone number provided.

And French rose expert Elsie de Raedt opens her Loire Valley manor house and gardens to visitors, again by appointment only.

Abbreviations – The French have an interesting habit when it comes to abbreviations. If a shortened word contains the ending letters of the word, then no period is included. Alternatively, if the abbreviation cuts off the ending letters of the word, then a period shows up. Take a look at Madame, which is abbreviated Mme, versus Monsieur which ends up M. in its abbreviated form.

Bread – The French consider bread a true staple of life and eats LOTS of it. This is why there is a boulangerie (bakery) on nearly every street corner in France. On the other hand, Americans tend to equate bread with instant weight gain. I notice that Americans don’t touch the bread basket at restaurants, much to the consternation of the French wait staff.

Coffee – At the end of French lunches and dinners, coffee – that would be expresso since the French put milk in their coffee only at breakfast – is served AFTER dessert. It’s almost like its own final course to the meal. So when the coffee you ordered does not arrive with your dessert, ne paniquez pas! It will come once you’ve finished your mousse au chocolat.

Tipping – In French restaurants, a tip of about 18% is built in to the price of items on the menu. So there is no need to tip another 15 to 20% at the end of the meal. In point of fact, when paying your restaurant bill by credit card, the French credit card slip usually will not include a space for tips. However, in return for good service, the French leave a good will gesture of some pocket change or small bills on the table – the rule of thumb is no more than 5% extra.

Books – Besides the language factor, French books differ from their American counterparts in two visible ways. First the titles on the spine (as the book cover is facing you) read from the bottom to the top in France; in the U.S., book titles read from the top to the bottom. So when you put French books on your bookshelf you have to decide if you want the front cover or the spine to align with the rest of your books?! Second, French books often have the table of contents at the end of the book rather than at the beginning. I am seeing more French books place it at the front nowadays but if you’re curious what’s in a book in France and can’t find the list of contents, check the back of the book.

Notebooks - Graph paper is de rigueur (essential) in French spiral and bound notebooks. Both French school kids and adults like the orderly ambiance graph paper provides – perhaps this is the key to their wonderful handwriting skills? Or maybe it’s the fountain pens everyone uses in France? In any case, Rhodia is the brand of choice when it comes to these graphic works of art.

Clocks and Time – Last but not least, the French regularly use the 24-hour or military clock to avoid any scheduling snafus – and the need to use AM or PM. Train schedules, airline flights, shop hours, restaurant reservations all function on the 24-hour clock. For example, shops in Paris tend to be open from 10h00 à 19h00 (10AM to 7PM).

And while on the subject of time, it’s very helpful to remember that in the U.S. daylight savings time starts earlier in the spring and changes back later in the fall as compared to France and the rest of Europe. So there is a two to three week period each season where the standard time differences between the U.S. and France are off by an hour. Good to note for your French travel schedule when time is of the essence!

Step into French time with the big clock windows at Paris’s Musée d’Orsay

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It is the new year – Bonne année to all! – and the perfect moment to put France on the calendar. I invite you to join me and Garden Specialist Jane Holahan for this year’s very special trip to the Loire Valley and Paris from June 7 to 14, 2013. It is one of French Affaires’ most spectacular sojourns in France and includes exclusive visits and inside tours of fabulous gardens, châteaux, manor houses and more.

We’ll take in the beautiful architecture of châteaux such as Chenonceau known for its soaring arches over the River Cher. We also will be treated to guided visits of well-known gardens such as Villandry—notably the most magnificent and inventive garden in all of France—and lesser-known private gardens not usually accessible to the public. Our stay in the Loire Valley will be made all the more special by our lovely accommodations in château hotels in the region and gourmet meals with wine. Other trip highlights include two days based in Paris with guided visits to the King’s Vegetable gardens of the Château de Versailles and the exquisite Parc de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne.

Included here is the trip itinerary with gorgeous images to tempt you. The Fall 2012 version of this trip sold out quickly, and our June 2013 offering will be our last Loire Valley and Paris trip for some time. If you have never been to the Loire Valley or feel your previous visit didn’t do it justice, then consider joining our once-in-a-lifetime trip. This region is one of the top 10 places to see in all of France – and the gorgeous gardens are a MUST in June!

Great Châteaux & Gardens of the Loire Valley, Plus Versailles & Paris

Day 1: Friday, June 7 – Depart your home city for Paris. Dinner & breakfast en route.

Day 2:  Saturday, June 8 – Arrival in Paris, Group pickup the Loire Valley.

Morning arrival in Paris! Gather your bags & take your TGV train from CDG airport to the Tours St. Pierre des Corps train station. Your trip hosts Elizabeth Seitz & Jane Holahan will meet you upon arrival in Tours. Pre-arranged transport to our hotel for the next two nights, the magnificent Château d’Artigny. This sumptuous château was built by the famous perfumer François Coty in 18th century style. Late afternoon guided visit to the Château de Villandry, a marvel of Renaissance architecture with superb gardens. NOTE: The French family who owns Villandry will give us a personal tour of their home – both the castle interior & the exterior grounds. Return to our hotel for a welcome aperitif followed by gourmet three-course dinner with wine. Turn in & get a good night’s sleep! (D)

Day 3:  Sunday, June 9 – Gardens of La Chatonnière, Château du Rivau & Elsie De Raedt

This morning, we will enjoy a guided tour of the lovely gardens of  La Chatonnière followed by an elegant picnic lunch with wine under the chestnut trees. After lunch, we’ll visit the 15th century Château du Rivau in its extraordinary setting. In the past 20 years, the château has been completely restored & its gardens recreated in the spirit of the Middle Ages. The collection of over 400 scented roses mingle with fruit trees, iris, lavender & lilies. Our visit will include a tour led by the owners. Later that afternoon, we will drive through the forest of Chinon to visit the special gardens of the charming Elsie de Raedt, writer & expert on old roses. We’ll then enjoy “afternoon tea” of a rose kir & local “tarte aux vignerons” at her home before returning to our hotel for a wonderful gourmet dinner with wine. (B, L, afternoon tea, D)

Day 4:  Monday, June 10 – International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire & Town of Amboise

After breakfast, we check out from our hotel. Then we head to the International Garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire. In its 22nd year, this International Garden Festival celebrates a different theme annually and includes creative & whimsical gardens of every style. Lunch as a group at Chaumont’s Festival Restaurant, Le Grand Velum. Next, we’ll make the short drive to our next château hotel, the marvelous Hôtel le Choiseul in the picturesque town of Amboise. Free time to explore the sights in Amboise including Leonardo da Vinci’s house & final resting place. Good shopping in town as well with lots of charming boutiques. Dinner on your own in Amboise, plenty of suggestions provided. (B, L)

Day 5: Tuesday, June 11 – Fairytale Chenonceau & the gardens of Château de Valmer

After breakfast, it is only a short drive to the magnificent Château de Chenonceau on the River Cher & the fabulous gardens of Catherine de Medici & Diane de Poitiers. After a guided tour of the château – including the amazing kitchens! – & grounds, we’ll buy a picnic lunch & enjoy it on site. That afternoon, we continue to Chançay, northeast of Tours, to visit the 16th & 17th century gardens at Château de Valmer. French owner & Countess Alix de Saint Venant, an acclaimed landscape designer & specialist in heirloom vegetables will be our guide. Madame de Saint Venant is wonderfully personable and welcoming – you will love meeting her and having her show us around her centuries-old gardens. We’ll also be treated to a wine-tasting of the delicious wines made and bottled at Valmer. Return to the Hôtel le Choiseul for our gourmet dinner with wine. (B, D) 

Day 6:  Wednesday, June 12 – Travel to Paris & Free Afternoon

After breakfast and hotel checkout, we will depart for Paris and the last two days of our France adventure. Check in at the casually elegant Hôtel Duc de St. Simon on the Left Bank. Free afternoon to explore & shop. Dinner on your own, plenty of good suggestions provided. (B)

Day 7: Thursday, June 13 – Gardens of the Château de Versailles, Parc de Bagatelle & Final Celebration Dinner

This morning, we’ll visit the inspiring & breathtaking gardens at the Château de Versailles, with a special tour of the Potager du Roi which began with Louis XIV & today produces over 50 tons of fruits & vegetables!  We’ll purchase lunch on site at Versailles & enjoy a picnic in the gardens. Then, we’ll return to Paris to visit the rose gardens of the Parc de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne. This garden of Marie Antoinette now displays 1200 varieties of roses & will be resplendent during our June tour. Late afternoon return to Paris. Free time to shop or sightsee as desired. This evening, our group will gather for a farewell celebration dinner with wine at a local Parisian bistrot. (B, D)

Day 8:  Friday, June 14 – Departure for the U.S.

After breakfast, check out of our hotel. Pre-arranged transport to Charles de Gaulle airport for flights back to the U.S. Lunch & snack en route.

For the "Great Châteaux and Gardens of the Loire Valley, plus Paris" registration form and further trip details, please email me at info.french@frenchaffaires.com . The trip cost is $4450 per person double occupancy and includes our first-class hotels, all breakfasts, most lunches and dinners with wine, cultural excursions, airport /train station transfers, guides and transport. Single supplement additional. Our trip size is small for an outstandingly personal experience. Feel free to call me with questions at 214-232-5344 - I’d be happy to discuss the trip details with you!

To see more about the special places on our Loire Valley and Paris itinerary, please browse the list of web sites below:

Villandry: http://www.chateauvillandry.fr/

La Chatonniere: http://www.lachatonniere.fr/index.php?lang=fr

Rivau: http://www.chateaudurivau.com/fr/

Elsie de Raedt: http://www.elsiederaedt.com/ewelcome.htm

Chaumont: http://www.domaine-chaumont.fr/index.php

Chenonceau: http://www.chenonceau.com/fr

Valmer: http://www.chateaudevalmer.com/

Versailles: http://www.potager-du-roi.fr/site/potager/

Parc de Bagatelle: http://parcsetjardins.equipement.paris.fr/Parc_de_Bagatelle

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